mr_smith126

Having looked at the pics again i've noticed the gaiter looks a little odd because the plastic piece is still in which gives the diameter of the old knob..

Can't see it's doing anything other than there to neaten the base to suit original knob.

Do people tend to take these out and re-cable tidy the gaiter to suit..?

Any thoughts on this one gents?

Remove plastic ring and neaten up with cable tidy?

There are some what i call 'Yorky bar' speed humps local to me.

They have been in our local news because they seem too harsh, steep, high. Problem being they're steep and not wide enough so your wheels are still at road level and the yorky bar can readily rip anything hanging down low.

I avoid this road now, so I feel your pain. Be interested to see what the regs are too..

Whilst searching just found this news article.. which would be welcomed by all of us I'm sure!

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/news/8568183/The-end-of-the-speed-hump.html

PM'd to add myself to the queue..!

Thanks gents, this looks pretty tidy for the bucks..

Do you have any photos of the install in daytime per chance..?

What do you think an installer would charge to fit this..?

Hi all,

Audio is most definitely not my strong point so thought i'd ask you guys for a little guidance.

Have had a little scoot around but totally lost for the direction to go.

Want to replace the standard head unit, needs to at least do the following:

- be a very neat and simple, flush looking install with a neat frame, don't like lots of big buttons, a simple line is preferred, big screen.

- cd/radio, have a windows phone not iphone and an old style ipod touch, i guess as much functionality for the budget is the aim

- i won't be upgrading speakers at this stage, maybe later

- want all the steering functions to work

- have existing blue tooth but if unit has this then i guess this is down to install to sort which one is in control, remove old?

- have existing nissan sat nav so due to costs and using phone not bothered about this at the moment although don't really use the nissan I use my phone instead

- budget 250-350 including head unit any wiring and fitting items - not even sure if that is possible..?

Not even sure the brands to avoid and the ones to try and go for..

Any views and opinions welcomed, things i need to clarify to choose etc..

kljsgkjfgkl

ljkhfg

Nice and clean... We like

Massive thumbs up again for Ross and the team.

Very helpful, really refreshing to get a great level of service, will continue to use and recommend to others.

I'd like to give a big thank you to Ross @ Japex and recommend other 350 owners in the Herts area to use them.

They have been very helpful and I feel confident they know their way around a Z.

Looking forward to using them in the future..

Rubbish, I also just noticed the stubby doesn't quite sit flush with the base... grind some thread off and or rubber washer me thinks...

Having looked at the pics again i've noticed the gaiter looks a little odd because the plastic piece is still in which gives the diameter of the old knob..

Can't see it's doing anything other than there to neaten the base to suit original knob.

Do people tend to take these out and re-cable tidy the gaiter to suit..?

Looking good mate, cleared rear fog next I reckon.

Lets see what little project the posty brings this week...

So finally some more little bits have been done in between the rubbish weather..

Some small bits, apexi filter, stubby, gear knob.

And exhaust, Invidia Gemini and Berk decat pipes..

Until the next installment...

1) AmyZed FA51 AMY

2) octet ADY 870D

3) Grundy MW53 EJO

4)FLEX GK05 UJD

5) glrnet LR54 NKO

6) kite 350 HS03 OKZ

7) steve916 JS54 ZZZ

8) WhackyWill K1 LEF

9)Andy James AJ07ZZZ

10) Benjy88 NG54 JSY

11) Buster V80BSV

12) Ashdaman89 v6acg

13) MadMarky VE51DEZ

14) Ogman Y30GGY

15) Fendz KC54 BSO

16) Shezza B9 MAS

17) Mopedmark PF53 0UU

18) Damiiian SK08 RAD

19) ap427 NH57 DWJ

20) mr_smith126 LG05DDF

Great springs for a daily driver, ride not too harsh, good option in my opinion if you don't want to go mad..

Some pics here showing before and after..

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/91173-gt4-the-beginning/

If anyone else has a rear lens already cleared or standard surplus to requirements, please drop me a pm

no.164

few more bits to add to this, photos/vids.. coming soon

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/91173-gt4-the-beginning/

Couldn't resist...

Sign post amended...

Couldn't help but notice your avatar Wasso...!!

Gutted I got rid now, but here was my previous..

Here's a tip that worked a treat for me...

Got some chewing gum on my drivers mat.

Knew about the old ice cube method in a bag, but this will still leave a wet patch as it produces condensation and you need to leave a while to freeze the gum.

Then a friend mentioned lighter fluid whilst down the pub. A compressed can, will freeze if sprayed as it evaporates.

Thought it was worth a shot.

Got the can and depressed the nib down on the mat near the gum, instantly freezes what is around it, grab the hoover and break off and hoover up loose bits.

Do a couple of times and all the gum comes off, no mess. I was quite surprised this worked so well!

Job done.

Well went back to my garage to get them to check out my issues as arranged with them for Saturday.

When i got there, they said they had some last minute stuff come in and were too busy to look.

So I went to see Ross at Japex.

I'd like to say Ross was spot on, had a look for me even though he was in theory shut by then.

Had a good look over the system for me, resolved an issue where the pipe was close to the heat shield on the diff, but I still had the noise from the system, kind of a rasp/vibration. Upon closer inspection we found this.. a hairline crack in the weld on the x-pipe. You can just about make out where it is blowing from the blackening on the flange..

Hopefully it will get sorted but frustrating being one of the very few to come across this!

Thanks for the feedback gents.

I'm going back on Saturday and hopefully with a little 'fine tuning' all will be resolved, I'll report back...

Had the same sort of problems with mine when fitted by a local garage. Then I took it to Falcon over in Middlesbrough and they re jigged the whole setup and now I don,t have a problem with alignment or my HFC,s touching the bodywork.

They should know what they are doing.. they're a jap specialist..

I'm sure they will take a look when I get back to them.

Was interested to see if anyone else has the view that decats should have a bracket though..

Hi everyone, thought I'd get some of your input and guidance here to help me resolve.

I got the Invidia Gemini system and Berk decat pipes installed at the weekend.

Firstly I think the system and set up is great, just what I was after in terms of sound, quality of system and price.

But I have a few niggles to try and iron out.

Vibration on deceleration:

There is a 'buzz' on deceleration or at idle when you rev and let off, same thing. Anyone experienced the same?

I did do a little homework and found a few links to people state side suggesting the decat pipes really could do with a bracket to stop movement.

Also from closer inspection of install pics I think perhaps there are a few locations where the system is close or touching the heat shield on the diff.

Has anyone played around with the heat shield to give better clearence, it's not metal so assume this could have a mild 'fettle'?

I will be speaking to my garage as they are a good bunch and I'm sure they will help resolve, but thought i'd do some homework first.

Tail pipe fitment:

I was very particular that I wanted the pipes nicely lined up.

My installer showed me the problem he had which was the left tail pipe needed to seat properly set in enough to get good grip on the bracket, not a problem, positioned this one perfectly. But the tail pipe on the right, in order to match position of the left created a bit of an issue. In order to marry with the position of the left and sit back far enough you then encounter the bend of the pipe it's connecting to and therefore this pushes it to the right naturally as it meets the bend. I may be being fussy here, but I think detail like this makes all the difference. We can't pull the left hand one out a bit as it's just not secure enough so needs to seat far enough on the pipe to be secure and then that leaves an issue with the one on the right that the bend of the pipes forces the position out. Not sure what I can do with this, but it will bug me if I don't get it sorted.

CEL light:

Was fine to begin with, then after a little 'spirited' driving light came on!

I assume the only resolve here is a remap?

Was trying to hold off on that one until I had an Mrev2 installed.

I assume it's not going to hurt and will just have to live with the CEL light for a bit..

Your help and guidance as always appreciated..

Pics >

Just saw your build thread Gareth.

 

Firstly I'd like to say good work on all the jobs you have taken on, I really admire your approach of research and thoroughness to get the end result that is best suited for you.

Also you are a credit to this forum, very helpful with any queries and open to help out with any advice you have found along the way.

As a result I shall be posting some modest alterations shortly with a gentle confirmation from yourself on my own views.

 

Nicely done.

 

How much did he pay you to write that?

 

For a small fee I would have written it

 

Nice work as always GM - you know I only jest

You know what supercharging's like Chris, ...I've no money left now to pay people to write nice things.

 

Really hope the Mrs likes paper mache shoes for Christmas.

Paper mache z detailed rain coat received thanks Gareth..