Richf

 

Yeah, they're sh1t, stay away. You'll hate it, it's awful, so plasticky, poor build, not powerful, can't handle, it's slow and cheap (or so I've heard)

You missed poor in crash tests , but they are cheap (worth repeating )

I was thinking that too. Were the cars called back to fix that ?

nope ,

you'll find you do, think rolling resistance and taller tyres albeit a small amount like gearing.

Sorry mate thats nonsense, you wouldnt notice it. Drag slicks do grow (Top fuel dragsters by about 1m) but not steel banded road tyres and no street car is going to have any appreciable difference with rolling resistance due to dropping a few psi .

First off dont worry about offending anyone

My advice would be to have a sensible discussion with their estate agent, mention you have looked at other properties and like this but want to understand why the vendor feels that the value is where they have set it

You dont lose terminal speed by dropping tyre pressures , you do however make it hellishly unstable when braking in the shutdown

Your point has been answered, its not how much power you have, its putting it down, you can spin the wheels with 276hp, add another 100 + and imagine what the results are.

Drag racing is much harder than many people think

I tried garage floor paint from Screwfix, then 2 pack resin based paint and also tiles and the latter have worked best for me , they arent perfect as heavier cars can cause them to move about a bit and in hot sun they expand but i've fixed mine down in a few places with gripfill and they seem fine, they are nice to work on

They have been down more around 12 years off and on as I took them up for a bit due to them moving with the 370z but they still look pretty good

They are the same as Jez has at H-Dev and they are still alright there , i bought mine off him as he had spares left over.

For those that are interested I am helping to arrange a RWYB at Shakespeare county raceway weekend 25-26th March with the Skyline Owners , more the merrier for a fun day out , no pressure no racing just trying to get the best out of our cars

There is a guy in the US that has run into the 12.6's with a 370z with just a few bolt on bits and a map , getting a decent time is all down the first 60ft

I follow this break in proceedure , have done for the last 20 years

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

All the cars I have run in this way have made more than the factory quoted figures on the dyno

This was a 12.4@117 in Reggie the supercharged 370z

If you search Top Gear when they have had to buy old cars they have dyno'd some of them and losses were mostly high.

Only in the world of top gear does horsepower magically leak from an engine over time.

Ive had more powerful cars than my Evo 6 but point to point its still the fastest car I've owned by some margin , awesome things

8.68@168 on my bike

 

What bike was that?

Homebuilt 1981 Z1000j 1428cc 14/1 cr and nitrous, around 300hp . Raced in the Competition bike class I built about 5 different drag bikes between 1991-2005 started with turbocharged ones and then went to high compression + nos

8.68@168 on my bike

My n/a 370z ran a 13.2@105

The Supercharged 370z ran a 12.6@118 but only managed to do two runs , might have got a 12.2 out of it

Go on the dyno sheet thread but some engines are better than others and its not due to mileage

Can't see stock internals taking 750

Again, different parts different tuning houses will see different outputs so all a bit here and there.

 

Zmanalex and a few others have done FI so im sure they can give you more hands on info

I wouldn't be surprised to see that kind of figure on a US dyno , I'm convinced the horses are smaller over there because they seem to get a lot more in the same engine Well that and their dynos typically over read by around 15%

430hp for the DE and 450 for the HR is realistic for supercharged engines not sure going any higher than that is

Wow , 10 years ago I was driving a Skyline and since then I have owned a further 10 cars !

No i think your still not getting your head around it, The regulator is just an adjustable restriction, its always open, its just a restriction, and the result of a restriction is pressure, so the circuit goes......fuel tank-fuel pump-fuel filter-fuel rail/injectors- fuel regulator, and from there back to the tank.

Ah, fixed orifice, gotcha.

 

So what happens in that system if you don't have a regulator? Pressure is determined by the fuel pump alone, I assume? Well, along with the natural restriction present in the pipework itself.

No i think your still not getting your head around it, The regulator is just an adjustable restriction, its always open, its just a restriction, and the result of a restriction is pressure, so the circuit goes......fuel tank-fuel pump-fuel filter-fuel rail/injectors- fuel regulator, and from there back to the tank.

Ah, fixed orifice, gotcha.

 

So what happens in that system if you don't have a regulator? Pressure is determined by the fuel pump alone, I assume? Well, along with the natural restriction present in the pipework itself.

 

You need a regulator to rise fuel pressure with boost on FI engines. You dont need an adjustable one but that's an easy way to get a gauge so you can check pressure and upping the fuel pressure can help you flow more fuel through a smaller injector meaning you dont need to fit bigger ones

 

As you say in many cases the fuel pressure is set by a fixed orofice in the pipework itself

 

 

Sorry but fuel pressure needs to be set to suit the injectors used, some require different base fuel pressure, so adjustable is needed,

 

Also using higher fuel pressure to increase the flow rate of an injector is bad practice in my book, its OK for maybe a stop gap for a small power increase, but you will loose the headroom of the injector,

Injectors should not use more than 85% of there duty cycle, so should be sized to take required power output at 85% of there duty cycle, which leaves some headroom should the ECU need to increase fueling suddenly if det or denser airflow is detected.

 

It also helps prevent failure of the injector coil.

I agree that upping base pressure isnt recommended however its a very common route albeit less common nowadays, I've never needed to fit an adjustable reg on any of my modified turbo cars

No i think your still not getting your head around it, The regulator is just an adjustable restriction, its always open, its just a restriction, and the result of a restriction is pressure, so the circuit goes......fuel tank-fuel pump-fuel filter-fuel rail/injectors- fuel regulator, and from there back to the tank.

Ah, fixed orifice, gotcha.

 

So what happens in that system if you don't have a regulator? Pressure is determined by the fuel pump alone, I assume? Well, along with the natural restriction present in the pipework itself.

No i think your still not getting your head around it, The regulator is just an adjustable restriction, its always open, its just a restriction, and the result of a restriction is pressure, so the circuit goes......fuel tank-fuel pump-fuel filter-fuel rail/injectors- fuel regulator, and from there back to the tank.

Ah, fixed orifice, gotcha.

 

So what happens in that system if you don't have a regulator? Pressure is determined by the fuel pump alone, I assume? Well, along with the natural restriction present in the pipework itself.

You need a regulator to rise fuel pressure with boost on FI engines. You dont need an adjustable one but that's an easy way to get a gauge so you can check pressure and upping the fuel pressure can help you flow more fuel through a smaller injector meaning you dont need to fit bigger ones

As you say in many cases the fuel pressure is set by a fixed orofice in the pipework itself

Indeed crap dealers dont deserve your business , I bought my 370z from Kettering, 80 miles away from me the salesman wasn't even phased when the rear stepped out a little on the test drive, I also test drove a GTR at Westover in Bournemouth and they were also excellent , would certainly buy from them. Not heard anything good about Nissan Aldershot personally but never tried them myself

Its regulating the pressure in the fuel rail , the return goes back to the fuel tank

In fairness Admiral group are very clear about mentioning factory options in their paperwork, I remember when I was insured with them that that bit stuck out.

 

Got a link to the thread Rich?

I guess thats ok if you buy new but who knows what was standard and what was an option on a used car ? I'd never use Admiral to be honest , better companies about for not a lot more

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=23&t=1646309&i=200

Guy on pistonheads is having issues with his claim due to not mentioning factory options, no intention at all to decieve , it is Admiral mind you but giving the insurance company any kind of "out" nowadays its not the smartest idea

Car insurance is at an all time high

http://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/industry/cost-car-insurance-hits-all-time-high-uk