Smokeyjoe

Try Mercedes benz world, I used to work there as a track host, if you have a race license you can work on the track as a "driving specialist" to make some money and get some track instructing under your belt. You don't need to have an instructing license just experience with cars and track driving This is excellent news I will call them tomorrow. I went there once when I was 18 and drove an AMG and loved it! Thanks for the heads up Dedman, need to see you drifting at some point. Are you up at pod on the weekend?

Horley, near Gatwick..

Ideally that's what I'd like to do. To get the ARDS instructors licence it's a minimum of 16 races and then the test. But with no money or work at the moment.. It's not looking too likely!

I had an instructor called Mary. She was very relaxed which was nice. They let us drive the Peugeot RCZ, I liked it tbh felt quite solid for a Peugeot. Fwd though so it's never going to be perfect. The 6 observed races still sort of applies. You get your national B by doing the ARDS test, the 6 races after that you have to run with a novice sticker on the back of your car and be observed. Once you've done those six you can take it off and have the option to upgrade to a national A, which pretty much means you can race in all uk based track championships. I actually continued onto a track day with my boss in a porsche 924 race car and a lotus Elise, was amazing. You can gain so much from a track day! Skid pad is something I haven't done yet. I've been teaching drifting for 4 years so id be interests to compare.

Grundy - it's for a race licence. Allows you to compete in the UK

I am very happy to say I passed my ARDS test yesterday at Brands Hatch. I just thought i'd do a little write up to help anyone else thinking of doing it. Firstly you have to send off for your 'Go Racing' Pack. £65-70 depending where you get it from. This includes: - Medical/licence application blue form - MSA Blue book (rules, regulations etc) - DVD version of the blue book - DVD on racing, the ARDS test and first aid - Demon Tweeks catalogue - List of approved ARDS schools I then booked my medical, the medical was basic and consisted mainly of my doctor charging me a lot of money to look through my medical history and perform some basic tests. This is to make sure you are safe to race. After some studying of the 'Blue book' and learning/memorising all the flags I booked my test. This was £250 for a 2hr slot at Brands Hatch. I know schools vairy and you can also do extended tests to allow for some more time to get used to the car, however with my experience I thought I would save the money and bite the bullet. On arrival you sign in as you would on a track day and then get seated in a room with an instructor and anyone else doing the test. At this point I felt like I was back at school sitting an exam that I knew I could have spent more time revising. The instructor then explains how the day is going to go and you sit down to watch the same DVD that comes in the Go Racing pack. After this the instructor went over a few points that were either unclear on the DVD or not mentioned. You then have 20 minutes to complete the written test, this seems like a short amount of time but I think it took me 10. The first section is all on the flags, you need 100% on this bit to pass. The next four sections are multiple choice, each person supposidly has different questions but the safest answer is usually the correct one. On this section you are allowed two incorrect answers. The test is then marked, and if you are successful then you go out on track with an instructor. The instructor will drive for two to three laps showing you the circuit, the lines and the level of speed they would like to see from you. When its your turn to drive you will do around 6 laps (im sure it depends on the circuit) with the instructor commenting and adding any tips if neccesary, when you pass the start/finish line at the end of these laps they will say 'These laps will now be assessed' (or something to that effect), you will then do a further 4/6/10 laps and the instructor will be silent, once completed you will get told to return to the pits for good or bad news. I felt like the instructors were on your side, they are very clear about the written test and very relaxed on the driving section, they want you to pass. The whole theme of the day is safety and awareness. The instructors don't want to see how fast you can get around the track, they want to see that you can keep a reasonable pace, a consistent line, keep the car balanced and be aware of other people on the track. ( I did mine on an open pitlane track day so there was plenty of traffic both overtaking and being overtaken). Relax, enjoy it, and don't stress out if it doesn't go right the first time. Driving is a skill that largely comes from experience, if you have to do it again then you are just gaining more seat time which will be nothing but advantagous. Sorry to waffle on, its just I was searching for a writeup like this before mine and couldn't find one! Just a final run down of cost as it does add up. Go racing pack: £65-70 Medical: £116 Test: £250 Licence: £58 (National B ) Any questions fire away and I will try to answer them.

Done well

Not sure where you are and im pretty sure its obvious but dont go to the Halfrods Autocentre just outside Hertford, Just from previous experience.

Fitted the pads all round on standard rotors and theyre great. Not sure if it was just me but for the first day they were pretty on or off but now theyve been bedded in a little bit they are much better.

http://www.driftworks.com/forum/wheels-tyres-sale-private-sales/211147-weds-kranze-5x114-18x10-18x12-et8-dissssssshhhhhhhhh.html Not mine but I'd definitely buy them if I had the money.

It's a uk spec with gt pack. When I first had it I took it round a dry track for 4 laps sideways and had no issue about it locking up there. But now the last couple days in the wet it seems to prefer to one wheel. Like it's got lazy. It will still lock, just later than I would like

I used the search button and couldn't find anything. So.. My diff is a little too inclined to spin one wheel rather than lock up the back when I'm trying to get the back end out. (Professional driver, closed course). Is there any way if getting the diff re shimmed or more plates being added so it locks up a little quicker? I don't want a welded again as they drive you nuts and I can't afford to shell out for a1.5/2 way ATM either. Any ideas? Thanks,

Fitted the brakes yesterday. easiest job in the world.

Harder than most cars but not too bad. All you need is a flathead screwdriver, 10mm socket and a couple extensions. There is a decent guide somewhere on YouTube but Basicly.. Turn the wheels so you can pull the arch liners back enough to undo the two bumper bolts on each side. (Some people have three). Open the bonnet and undo the 6 clips across the front of the bumper. (Flathead screwdriver lift up the middle section then pull the whole bit out) Pull the two sides of the bumper loose then pull the whole bumper forward and down. Then undo the 4 headlight bolts. 1 at the top, one on the side connecting to the wing. And two hidden underneath. Pull the headlight out a little bit, undo the plug. Then pull the whole unit out. Put it on a towel or something soft lense side down, twist open the grey circle bit and it will expose the main and dipped beam bulb. That's what I did. Took about 20 mins off 30 mins back on just because I kept loosing my socket down the inside of the bumper. If someone has a better way please chime in. Sorry no pics!

Cool thanks guys. Bought the right bulbs. What do you mean by the ballast? Also the problem fixed itself by the time I got to nissan lol. Thanks anyway il know for next time!

My dipped beam went on my passenger side light. So I replaced the bulb and it still doesn't work. I plugged in the light unit to the working side and it still doesn't work so.. The issue is definitely headlight unit not car side... What can I check what may be broken? Thanks, Joe

Sorry correction..indicator and side light. Cant get to the main beam one as easiliy. I think the source of my problem is that the grey cover that covers the xenon bit is half broken so the seal isnt great. Perhaps it could be the same for yours?

up to tarmac here too. Got some side skirt/lips and some stoptech pads. Havent fitted eithe yet but the service and delivery have both been great! Will defo use again

Ive got this on mine. I took the headlight out (no more than half an hour)...then stuck a vacuum cleaner over the hole where the full beam bulb sits (took it out first) and a hair dryer towards the indicator hole so it cycled the air through. Then left it on the window sill with the bulbs out for about an hour. Its probably reduced it by 80% but Im about to do it again so its all clear. This isnt an official guide..just what I found around the house. Plus new light units are f-ing expensive

Cool thanks guys il order some. I've got the led sidelights in there already. Make a huge difference!

Sorry to be thick but there are hundreds of variations. Do I want 6000k? or 4300k or 1200k??

My front passenger headlight has accumilated some water and now remains quite misty. I took it off and put a hair dryer blowing into one of the bulb holes but its not getting it 100%. Any other ways? I looked at new light units but they are silly expensive! It has also killed (or happened at the same time) that xenon headlight light. Where do people get bulbs from, halfords seem a little pricey...do you have to fit them in any special way? Sorry i'm new to all this real car stuff, been knocking around with old cars for too long! Joe

My car doesn't seem to have one and it may be why my light looks like an aquarium. So... What you got?

I have a set with no tyres if anyone is interested. Pm me

I may have to try that. I sometimes will have to take a passenger too though..