Fluke
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Posts posted by Fluke
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Maybe try the reset and throttle body re learn before messing with the cleaning of it?
Just an idea, may save you the hassle of cleaning it.
link on reset
Thanks I will give it a go later on today. I took a quick video this morning showing what the cold start looks like.
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A third vote for the throttle butterfly. Sounds like it has god some crud build-up. The MAF is not as likely when its only affecting cold start running.
Take off the air inlet pipe to reveal the throttle unit and the butterfly throttle plate and spray liberally around the edges with carb cleaner (not brake cleaner). Leave to dissolve the muck for a few minutes.
A lot of folk will tell you not to do this next bit but I have done it many times on all my cars and to no bad effect. Wearing thin plastic gloves (like you get at the garage at the diesel pump) , or with cling-film or a plastic bag over your hand, slowly push the top of the throttle plate and it will open. The gloves stop the carb cleaner irritating the skin. Do not force it or you may break the mechanism. Gentle and slow is all you need. Agitate the crud along the line where the throttle butterfly closes. You are likely to be able to see this line quite easily. Agitate the crud with a toothbrush and spray again as necessary.
Reassemble and despair as your car ticks over at a healthy 2.5K revs
.Don't worry, all you need to do now is the idle learn procedure and you are done.
I will give it a go this weekend a report back.
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VVT's or oil that is to thick is my guess - only because you seem to have everything else that would need checking covered and also because it's fine when it warms up.
What oil did you use at the oil change?
I used Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5W-30 Ester Synthetic Engine Oil for my Oil change. Can you explain VVT's and what I need to do to check?
That should be fine
The VVT's (Variable Valve Timing) are at the front left and right sides - if they have sludge in them or the oil is thick then they may not work properly but as the oil heat up and becomes thinner they come back to working fine again.
You could take them off and give them a good clean - or just put new ones on to test - only 4 bolts and an electrical connector - I think I have a spare set you can borrow
I would agree that a throttle plate reset/relearn from above is a good one to try and costs nothing to try - not sure about the MAF clean although it will do no harm (if done carefully) why would it be OK hot - usually you get rough running associated with a dirty MAF as well - which you don't have.
Hope it helps
Thanks, I will take them off and clean them with some brake cleaning fluid in the meantime I will try resetting the throttle plate once I've found out how to do it.
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Sounds to me like a faulty or dirty air flow (MAF) sensor? Is it down on power or any flat spots through the rev range?
Power is fine, I dont have any flat spots, The car runs fine after the initial start problem.
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VVT's or oil that is to thick is my guess - only because you seem to have everything else that would need checking covered and also because it's fine when it warms up.
What oil did you use at the oil change?
I used Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5W-30 Ester Synthetic Engine Oil for my Oil change. Can you explain VVT's and what I need to do to check?
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I have 2003 350z that has cold air induction, plenum spacer, berk HFC's, Milltek exhaust and I has an Up Rev.
The past few weeks I noticed that when I start the car first thing in the morning the rev counter starts bouncing between 300rpm and 1.5k rpm. The car seems on the verge of cutting out, a couple of times it has done so and yesterday it took a lot of cranking to get it started.
The car has been serviced about 4 months ago, its had new plugs and a new battery within the past few months and I only use V-Power fuel. Apart from the cold start issue the car runs fine.
Can anyone point me at what I should be looking at to solve the issue?
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I bought the uprated SGS lifters, swapped the helper springs out, and removed the boot weight. The boot still wont pop, I have even tried sticking 6p worth of pennies in and I still end up having to hold the release boot while I lift the boot.
BTW - I have a nismo spoiler.
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Welcome Dave. - I can vouch for his work as he did quite a bit of work on my MX5.
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BTW - if your planning on using that tablet, then I think you will find that it is about 11mm to big to go into a stock sat nav cubby, unless you plan on removing the lid completely.
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I have a set of standard wheels with tyres if your interested?
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Yes.
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They have 370z seat frames.
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I also have some, that were refurbished, they are not the the frames thought.
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If your able to post, I am also interested if the deal falls through.
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Any pictures of one fitted?
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Nice looking tv, it's a pity it's curved as it won't wall mount.
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The LG is on my list, is there any specific Panasonic models I should look at?
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Thanks for the replies are there any TV models I should take a look at?
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I am planning on upgrading my current 50" LG plasma tv to something larger 60 - 65" with passive 3D. I know 4k Tv's are the latest tech, but I am not really sure if I would notice the difference, and there doesn't seem to be a lot of 4k content about.
Has anyone got any recommendations for a decent sized TV? I have about £2k to spend and the only real criteria is:
1) Must have 3D.
2) Must have Freeview
I already have a Panasonic DMP-BDT460EB 3D Smart Network Blu-ray player and an LG NB3530a soundbar and sub.
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i was wondering that too?? what app you using and do you need to pulg it into something??
I am using dash command on my tablet and have an ODBlink connected to gather all my info.
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How much is a new sump? And who sells them?
boost gauges on the sat nav screen
in I.C.E & Electronics
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What Andriod stick are you using?