laytonanthony

John, it's going in for a full exterior respray. In 4 weeks. The car will then be back to its best. The door, front bumper and rear quarter will all be sorted. I'm actually quite glad I brought it now! ^_^ Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Lol Lee, car drives spot on. Steering is identical to the 370z but just hasn't got the zed badge. The car is going in for vinyl wrapping next week. Still unsure on colour yet. Suggestions would be nice lol. Quire like metallic orange

Yup....i ended up buying it after a nice long chat with Jonny! Nice guy. So now I own a vert and a coupe lol. Oops

Alright guys. Viewed it last night. The car has had a full respray and tbh it's OK but I'm fussy. Few runs here and there, and a few fish eyes but over all OK. The dash has been removed and coverd in leather to match door cards. From what I can remember the airbag had gone off and so this is why it's been wrapped in leather. Checked all panels and sill and everything links s as it should. Engine is sweet and sounds as new as it's only done 18k. Wheels are in mint condition. Atm I'm 80% going to buy it but I'm just Eaton on a price of my pal to blow the whole car over. I've offered him 13k and because he knows me Is willing to take it. Ball is now in my court. Tbh not having my 370 for a while and this superb weather I will probably be the owner this evening lol

The guy selling it lives around the corner from me. His name is Adrian and a real genuine nice guy. In fact I have lost my tether with my coupe ATM so I am going to view the convertible tonight at 6:30 and probably buy that just for a summer dog about! first thing ill do though is check the oil lol To add i brought a orange 350z GT, burnt orange of him few years back.

looks like I got my work cut out lol :wacko:

UPDATE!! Engine will start and seems to idle OK but accelerator response is very bad, also wont rev over 3500 RPM and that struggles with floor to the floor. Car is in limp mode. Done a code check on ECU with consult3 and threw back: P0011: INT/V TIM CONT-B1 P0021: INT/V TIM CONT-B2 I'm now investigating these codes so any advice or experience with these codes will be greatly appreciated. :D

ENGINE RUNNING!!! Ok Guys after reading the VVEL sensors Voltage and scratching my head to why I couldn't get B1 VVEL sensor to 0.500v I removed it and put it the other way with the plug facing down (opposite to the other sensor). Re-ran consult 3 and was then able to set the sensor. Both sensors were set to 0.494 as I literally couldn't get any closer. Its within the 0.48mv so was fine. Fired her up a few times and with a bit of pedal She ran and idled. Problem i got now is that the throttle response takes a few seconds to respond, wont rev over 3500 RPM, the engine just drops out as if its trying to protect itself. Main thing so far is that there is no knocks or bang from the engine and sounds sweet on idle. Any advice on setting it up would be very helpful. On another note the VVEL actuators if they are removed CAN be reset!!!!!! the manual says to replace once removed!!! This isn't the case obviously.

OK guys I've now managed to get consult 3 talking to my car to set the actuators. The one actuate B1 was reading 4.365V and the other B2 was reading 0.567V. Now the manual states to set the sensors at this value Voltage : 500 ± 48 mV which has stumped me. I'm no auto technician so any help I would be very grateful Ant

All sorted!

Guys Adrian kindly borrowed me the leads to program my actuators but i need to find the drivers for the CLIP. Im able to use the clip with CONSULT3 PLUS with a pass through to allow the older version VI Clip which Adrian borrowed me. I just don't have the drivers for the clip its self and cant seem to find them. Here is the clip

Picture of the complete actuator setup in case anybody ever needs to remove them. You can remove them but the whole unit which is pictured below. The sensor as you can see adjusts left-right to set the timing up. Leads will arrive tomorrow so fingers crossed she fires up :-)

Not really. Even if I can't program my existing actuator I would still need to program the new one. Costs nothing to try and program mine.

UPDATE! Having rang Nissans Master technician in Cheltenham, (Steve) the guy wasn't very helpful at all and verged on the line of being quite arrogant.The guy literally did not want to help at all. His knowledge on the VQ37VHR engine seemed very limited and really couldn't answer any of my questions. So that ruled Nissan out! Having read about the VVEL Actuators and sensors, If any of these two parts are removed or disturbed they must be set to the right postion using Voltage readings from the ECM. The actuators control the shaft which then controls the eccentric cam at the back end of the engine so if these aren't set-up properly the engine will not run properly or if at al. NEVER REMOVE THESE INDIVIDUAL PARTS UNLESS ITS THE COMPLETE UNIT THEN YOUR SAFE!!! The Actuator sensor can be set using a multimeter on the ECM module (loom side in) and adjusting the sensor until the correct voltage reads in the manual. This deemed very fiddly and I lost my patience. This procedure can also be done using consult 3 software, then manually moving the sensors left and right until the correct voltage shows on the program. (500+-48) These sensors are VERY, VERY, VERY temperamental and the slightest of movement can knock the voltage out (even when tightening the 2x bolts for the sensors) Adrian has kindly offered to borrow me his consult 3 leads to perform the reset process of the VVEL actuators. He kindly posted the leads today recorded next day delivery so hopefully ill receive tomorrow to have a go at setting these up. Having spoken to quite a few Nissan 370z experts/gurus/mechanics over the last few days NOT one has ever come across this issue as they have NEVER disturbed the actuators or sensors. Ill keep logging my process as I am positive this thread will help others in the near future, Especially those who may have had a rebuilt engine for what ever reasons! Picture attached!

Adrian Can you get me link to software and cables? thanks pal This manual tells you how to set the VVE Actuators. http://www.z-car.com/infiniti/m37x/EC.pdf

Hi Guys Got engine back of engine builders and installed it back into the car today. Went in within a few hours. I have double checked every plug and every sensor on the engine 3 times over. Clutch has been bled, brakes been bled, Engine oiled, Gearbox oiled, checked all fuses, new spark plugs, new battery. EVERYTHING has been checked! Fired her up and she ran very lumpy, Idled on her own but was running on three cylinders! guessing the drivers side was running and passenger side wasn't! Read the fault codes and kept throwing up (P1090) which is RH VVEL actuator position sensor. After clearing codes and few attempts of starting threw another 2 codes up (P1092) LH VVEL actuator position sensor. (P2101) Throttle actuator "A" Control Motor Circuit range. Having scoured the internet and reading the engine manual it does STATE do not remove the actuators at any point! We did remove the RH actuator when we removed the engine but left the LH one on. It does state in the manual that the actuators need to be reset by Nissan as this will affect the timing. The link is here http://www.the370z.c...88485-vvel.html First of all does anyone have the software to do this mobile or is it main dealer. Also has anyone had similar problems. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for your advice Ricky. guys just thought id add the EM manual for the VQ37VHR engine in case anyone ever strips it down lol. Link is here http://www.z-car.com/infiniti/m37x/EM.pdf Safe to say I now kinda know these engines inside out. Will be getting it back Tuesday this week. Been off the road for nearly 8months!! feels like im getting a new car again HaHa.

Spoke to my engine builder today and also Opie oils. As is only the bottom end rebuild and tolerances are so tight in these engines there is no need to use running in oil. Just use standard oil for 500miles then do another oil change. hopefully will be back in by next weekend! once its ran in i will be buying a supercharger kit of Adrian!!!

Hi guys Will be getting my engine back Friday and will probably have it fitted back in over the weekend. My question is how should I run it in. Seen soo many different forums saying run it hard, run it in gradually. Some saying harder the better to seat the new piston rings ect. I understand all engines are similar on principle but surley these vq37vhr engines work on high tolerances so there must be a certain method? Also I would like to know what oil I should run it on for running in, if needed. Thanks in advance for any help or advice. Ant

The Engine is at the engine builders!!! He is a friend of mine so I am helping strip it apart to save on the pennies!!! I removed the engine myself as well and plan on putting it back in as well. The crank was bent and could not be machined! TBH I genuinely think I could re-build it myself but again not worth the risk!

More complications tbh. Im not an engine builder and have no more interest in the car. As soon as its repaired its being sold as i want a GTR. OEM parts are just fine for me! Thanks for your advice anyway.

Here is the diagram for the main bearings!!!!!

No Alex its the VQ37VHR I'm fitting a new crank and 1x new connecting rod which i have the markings of both new parts and old parts!

Ok I was getting confused as that diagram only shows you how to find the Big end bearing grades and not the main bearing grades. First 4 digits are for main bearing grades (MMKN) but I need to remove the head to find the other marks on top of the block too match up the main bearings. This chart basically matches up the Connecting rod diameter with the crank shaft journal. So with Crank markings F E H H H H rod markings G G F J L L grades on chart 1 1 2 2 2 2 Just matched them up to get the grades. Is that right?

Hi Guys Need some help figuring out what bearing grades i need to re-build my nissan engine. I have stripped the engine and removed the crank as its no good. I have now received my new crank. My new Cranks markings are below and below that the diagram to get the bearing grades. Im having trouble understanding the chart to determine which grade bearings I need. If someone could be of any help i would be very much grateful. New Crankshaft stamps EMMKN FEHHHH K= Identification number M=Journal diameter grade no.1 M=Journal diameter grade no.2 K=Journal diameter grade no.3 N=Journal diameter grade no.4 F= Pin diameter grade no. 1 E= Pin diameter grade no. 2 H= Pin diameter grade no. 3 H= Pin diameter grade no. 4 H= Pin diameter grade no. 5 H= Pin diameter grade no. 6 Connecting Rods stamps Cylinder 1= 0E5U - G11E Cylinder 2= 0E5U - G22E Cylinder 3= 0E5U - H33H Cylinder 4= 0E5U - J44E Cylinder 5= 0E5U - L55E Cylinder 6= 0E5U - L66E