MDMetal

The antenna needs to be powered to work correctly. I had to buy a new antenna unit many moons ago when I bought the car for the same reason (existing unit was doing nothing) I think I got it from Alex

2 minutes ago, Sim said:

Just read the whole thing, this sounds like it could be a good call.

According to 

It'll be blue/white striped wires, they also power the antenna

There is I believe an amp-on cable from the stereo to turn the amp on when required, maybe with an aftermarket system your amp has been made always on or on via a switch somewhere.

I think it looks gorgeous tbh, if you swapped all the badges back to Nissan then we'd all be opening our wallets! It arguably respects the shape and design a lot better than most after market kits.

I don't have the pdf but I have done the procedure, it's not too complex,

-Move your seats forward

-Disconnect the battery

-remove the subwoofer/parcel shift trim

-Remove the insulation/sound deadening behind.

-Remove the screws from the tops of each side tank

-remove the o rings,

-wiggle the sender out.

-Clean/replace

-reassemble

Make sure to do it outside or in an open space, with as little fuel in the tank as possible as you'll be getting lots of fumes.

Advice at the time was to replace the o rings and avoid getting fuel on them.

Electrical contact cleaner was what I used to clean the floats.

Bare in mind it'll break again but maybe not quite as badly as it was previously, mine still gets fluffy once you get under 70 miles

The volt meter on the dash isn't going to help, the difference between starting fine and lacking enough juice is about 1/2 a degree on the dial!

Even the most basic battery testers usually also help spot if the alternator is charging correctly. How many times have you started the car per battery? Either something is draining it like an accessory that's plugged I. (or an after market stereo) or the alternator isn't charging the battery. It's quite simple either it's leaking or not being charged! Work out which one and the remedy should be simple 

Heh the tt is the a4 platform isn't it?! 

It's just advice, have a look at it yourself and see if you can see the issue then just take a peek every few months. Probably find they happily last a year or more and might not even come up next year.

Personally I swapped both arms as its a driveway diy job so I did it over a weekend as at a time it was a daily car. Means it's all done and good, that's just me though! 

I figured the ball joints would be going as well and bought some Moog ones from Torqen and did it all myself. With the bushes you'll need to get a garage to do it so either pay for them to do everything or take the arms off and take them to the garage to press out/in. Obviously not so good if it's your only car.

Just to be clear your saying you just want to replace one arm and both drop links?

I'd really get both arms swapped, if one's failed the other won't be far behind. The car's going to feel a bit odd with very differently behaving arms not to mention that the process for swapping one is pretty much the same for 2 if your doing it yourself or paying it's more economical to do both at once.

What seats does it have in?

Snails pace progress here, -1 

Nifty, I assume that's a rubber block on the gearbox mount to soften the vibrations?

I'll take the gear knob if you can throw me a photo and it still looks decent

Can you snap a pic in daylight from an angle? The photos not really showing the issue very well with a flash.

Welcome aboard! Looks like a decent car, w brace, arms and struts can all be had at great prices from traders on here. Just don't consider buying anything from Nissan directly you'll be spending a fortune for no good reason.

1 hour ago, Doom said:

Bump and drop to £65 shipped or £60 collected =) 

Me please  (shipped)

The intake pipe and spacers, you know the make of either? 

Doesn't look like it was a case of something abrasive rubbing against it once or twice it looks very much like general wear and tear, only you know how forcefully you brush against it every time you get in and out but does seem odd for a car so new and with so few miles

Known issue, you need to get the float sensors out of each tank side and give the contacts a good clean and reassemble, it's a bit of a pain I did mine years ago and it's better but it's never as good as it should be.

There's a guide somewhere I tried to find it but failed  takes a few hours but it's the same procedure as replacing them except you just clean them (obviously!)

28 minutes ago, Payco said:

As above. Don't make the mistake of fitting them around the wrong way. Some folk have managed to do it.

Rite of passage 

11 minutes ago, Kryptek49 said:

I'm buying these: https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/nissan/nissan-350z/tarmac-sportz-nissan-350z-03-09-hood-dampers-black.html in a couple of weeks

I've got em fitted, great product, great price what's not to like?

1 hour ago, OnlyAfro said:

Piece of ****, just support the gearbox with a jack while you pop the crossmember and mount off / on.

IS it solid or stiffened rubber? Just thinking of the change in noise/vibration totally solid is going to be quite a lot of increase but a stiffer rubber shouldn't be too bad?