MDMetal

9 minutes ago, davidv10 said:

Thanks for this. Where would be a good place to cut in to the taillight wiring? I would assume it would be easiest to get to near the tail light plug and then wire back into the front of the cabin?

None of this is tricky but you do need a multi-meter and to do it properly, seal any new joints you make and not leave wires dangling, you obviously have to be OK with removing bits of trim etc. Think carefully about an existing circuit that meets all your condition and use that so your logic is all sorted.

You just going to use standard NACA ducts?

Nice!

The skirts are the add ons?

2 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

Very easy to replace, just remove cam covers, fit new gaskets (supplied) and refit with new cover.

Drilling and cutting are only required if you are replacing the 6 x oil seals.

These already have oil seals in correct? so your replacing two components in one go? the main gaskets and the oil seals?

Silly question. I saw some awhile back involved drilling bits out etc these I take it are completely identical to the OEM ones? remove and replace? How much work is it to replace them? I'm sure I have some leaks somewhere

1 minute ago, coldel said:

Or so we have seen so far 

Well we can only go on what we know!

3 minutes ago, coldel said:

As a global business you wouldnt just make a snap decision. You have to plan a number of scenarios, see how the landscape pans out, then execute accordingly. The fact they have signed a deal with the EU shows that us being outside come next month will have counted against us in any decision in terms of where to site production. Their deal means its more advantageous to build in Europe, so off they go.

 

Except they aren't building in Europe, not one of the Japanese factories is moving to Europe, the trade deal and decline in sales is what's started this. Us being in the EU might have delayed the move but that's it.

If us leaving the EU was the cause then these companies would be moving to EU countries they're not all of the Japanese companies are returning to Japan, partly due to the fact EU sales are dipping and partly due to the coming trade deal between Japan and the EU meaning there's little point to having EU production for models reducing in volume. Yes we'll need to come up with our own trade deal but ultimately they're moving due to the fact market conditions have meant ANY EU production isn't sensible anymore.

Not a fan of that design but the finish looks great  bodyshop or yourself?

1 minute ago, rabbitstew said:

Problem here is that you can only use your NCB on one vehicle. When I looked at buying a £500 old banger to run in the week I figured insurance companies would be over joyed as it meant the risk of me having an accident in my more expensive car would be significantly less. However, when I spoke to various companies, as I was using my NCB on my main car, it meant I would have no NCB on the old banger, which meant it would cost a fortune to insure, making the whole thing not financially viable. Even when I looked at so called "multi car" policies, the premium they wanted only applied my NCB to one car.

 

I have heard of people where companies have happily mirrored their NCB on other vehicles, but no companies offered to do that for me.

 

What I had to do several times in the past when I have needed to use a 2nd car for a week or so, is to take out temporary day by day insurance. I believe I used Adrian Flux last time. It wasnt cheap.

Mines mirrored with admiral, that's from my cheap 350 onto something much more pricey!

1 minute ago, Keyser said:

This is the one with the valve caps, not sure on the make, Tim (the guy I share ownership of the Radical with) decided we needed one so he got it, I'll try and find out the make for you though

Cool curious to hear what the quality is like, i'd assumed the cap based solutions weren't as accurate as the inside ones

What tyre pressure/temp system are you using? I had a look awhile back and most of the them are just the screw in caps rather than a proper system or a horrid little display. I fancy fitting one to my DE, I'm always too lazy to check the pressures myself!

1 hour ago, PPod said:

On going problem myself but I've just left the light on.  I get it cleared and nothing comes up on reader with light on but figured out it's when I'm on full load and when exhaust pops and bangs a little.  Hasn't effected anything with my car for past 3 years 

If I reset mine it's usually triggered by cruising at a certain RPM or load.

I've got Berk HFCs and they constantly throw errors, some people seem to get them some people don't I reset them sometimes, I've had spacers on and off doesn't make a bit of difference it's just life. I've pondered if there's some oil in the mixture, I do burn a fair bit of oil so I was pondering fitting a catch can and seeing if that helped. I've had the cats 6 years now so it's not terminal or anything, never had any other issues.

Can't be bothered to buy new sensors that as far as everyone says are totally redundant. There's apparently a dummy circuit you can fit and then delete the sensors or even have them turned off at remap time

Your not helping  the DRL's, are they a standard thing? I'm assuming the rear bumper light is the usual 370 one?

7 hours ago, DeeJayDready said:

£500.. Yowza! I'm looking to spend £100 max. Surely it's only an hours labour + materials once the car has been 'MOT washed' underneath and allowed to dry thoroughly?

I dread to ask but what's an MOT wash? An hour isn't a long time to do a job you'll spend 10 min just getting the car up and down!

ah jeeze just saw this, still meant to be saving up for the weber! the rears look very similar, kinda prefer this one tbh!

Do you know in terms of fitment which is better the weber or this?

18 hours ago, Maximus702 said:

My concerns were more beyond that.  An MOT won't tell if there have been excessive engine wear etc.  That's what I'm more worried about.

Agreed, however service won't tell you those things either mind!

13 minutes ago, Maximus702 said:

It's a dealer. They only have the service book and have just shrugged their shoulders and said they don't know.

Get the last Mot at least (online) and see what advisories it had!

25 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

Might be a plan to speak with the previous owner to establish what has /has not been done.

Yup but the service is really just fluid changes and occasionally the belts. It's not a magic check or guarantee of anything. I've given up having my cars serviced apart from the BMW as it's resale price will factor in the magic dealer stamps, the other cars it makes no different and I'll do as good a job on the service as anyone else. 

The service is just oil/filter changes I'd look in detail at the MOT's to see what the advisories were and if they reoccurred or seemed to be fixed. I'm fine with someone changing their own oil and filters and much more worried if it seems like there's a ton of advisories popping up.

Do more pennys help? Reason I ask is I got some new OEM poppers and they were weaker than my old ones with 3p wedged inside! Having said that I got some new struts and they weren't much better either!

It was indeed it's located just by the antenna in the boot. I've no idea if it's the same across all the 350z's regardless of age.

6 minutes ago, Kryptek49 said:

Is there anyway to verify the amplifier is not working correctly? i.e Multi-meter to test voltage via the pins?

My head unit does get signal though, it is just fairly crackly when in other cars there is no issue. Does this sound similar to your problem?

 

Thanks for the help

It was my exact issue yes, sorry I can't tell you what the expected voltage is  I just took it on faith to replace it but yeah testing would be good!