MattyV6

Loving this!! A car PC is on my to-do list currently for the Zed. But Android Tablets are definitely starting to become more appealing! I would still love a full blown PC though just for the extra possibilities, but there is a lot of extra cost & complications.

I thought this was the mic for the Bose AudioPilot feature?

Sounds good mate Ours will be having a full install fitted soon, but this will do as a temporary work around! At least I have room to play now

My headunit already has 4V outputs tho And the volume is only half the issue, the bass is severely lacking compared to with the Bose headunit, and no EQ rectifies it. Anyway... I've now managed to resolve this after finding a European Service Manual online (from Russia in the end haha!) For anyone else with an 03/04 MY who would like to know the wiring it is the following; 12v Power = Thicker Yellow with Red stripe Ground = Thicker Black Remote = Green/Yellow (there are 2 of these, its the one nearer the edge of the plug) Front Left Positive = Blue/White Front Left Negative = Blue/Yellow Front Right Positive = Light Green Front Right Negative = Black/Yellow Rear Left Positive = Orange Rear Left Negative = Purple Rear Right Positive = Yellow Rear Right Negative = Grey I've now got the Genesis Profile Four running in place of the stock Bose amp(s). Im running my own dedicated speaker wire to the subwoofer, and have run RCA leads from my headunit. With gains set to minimum it is louder and clearer than the Bose ever was. It is blatantly obvious that the Bose has a LOT of automated EQ present though, in comparison to the flat EQ set up that I now have. I hope this helps someone out in the future as it took me bloody ages to find the wiring haha!

I think the problem Im facing is that the Service Manuals & posts I've found online are all from US cars. Does anyone have the AV.pdf from the EU service manual??

I know that. This is only a temporary thing before major audio work takes place. As you can see I've already run some other cables too. Im just sticking in a small Genesis Profile Four amp in place of the Bose, as since replacing the HU (couldnt cope with the skipping any longer lol ) the sound has been crap! No bass at all hardly, and generally not as loud.

Anyone? Here are my wiring looms;

Hi all, Im trying to fit an aftermarket amp into my Zed but still use the stock Bose speakers (and wiring) for now. All I need to know is what wires on the Bose amp plug are for Front Left & Right speakers, and the Amp Remote turn on. From trawling the web I've found that the following wires should be right; Front Left Positive = Brown Front Left Negative = Black/Red Front Right Postive = Black Front Right Negative = White Now the problem is I cant see a Black wire anywhere on my loom, I do have a White one though. I also cant find a Black/Red wire, but I do have a Brown one I've noticed also on the plugs that one has wires labeled A, B, C, D, E, F etc (the white plug), and the other has A1, A2, A3 and B1, B2, B3 etc (black/blue plug), but I still cant find anything that relates to this The car is a 2004 UK GT. Does anyone know what colour/number/letter wires I need to be using here? Thanks Matt

If this doesnt sell I will take it off you at Japfest, and swap with my standard cubby at the same time

Only because that was all the oil I had left both times lol! Has conveniently filled it to the half way marker both times. Thanks for the advice with the oil. Will give 10w40 Pro S a go next time and see if this makes a difference. The Berks are HFC yes. Didnt realise that would hide blue smoke I did notice yesterday when booting it with the window down from stop to around 90ish, that you could smell the car was a bit "hot", maybe with a hint of oil. Undertray will be removed as soon as I can, underneath of the bay steam cleaned and then I'll give that cardboard trick a go, thanks for the tip The car is on 85k now, so the top end work was carried out 45k miles ago / around 4 years. What did you mean by a "proper oil consumption test"? Could you explain further

Really? I had plenty of Sensor 2 codes for both banks over the winter, which when I researched turned out to be because of the cats. Didn't know it would effect Sensor 1 too?

Just realised these codes have been coming up frequently since I've topped the car up with Sainsburys 97ron Gonna wait till this tank is empty and fill her with some 99ron and see if things change

Well the previous owner bought the car at around 40k miles at auction. The car was purchased with a noisy top end. He had the top end stripped & rebuilt, with new cam followers fitted as they were worn and causing the noise. Since this the engine has been running sweet and is silent even on a cold cold start. He had always used Shell V-Power fuel, and never used any 95ron as far as I know, and I like I said had always used Titan Race Pro S oil for it as well and I have lots of receipts to prove this. Are there any major worries if it is burning a fair amount of oil? Other than having to check and re-fill regularly?? It runs really nice, smooth, and very powerful. There are no signs of bluey smoke from the exhaust to suggest its burning a lot of oil?

Ok topped it up with a 1L bottle a couple days back and checked it after being sat overnight. Its now sat bang on the half way mark between L & H on the dipstick. Its also a lot easier to see the exact level now lol! She is definitely using/loosing a lot of oil somewhere then. As posted above the next step is to get the bottom of the bay steam cleaned and check for leaks. Question though.... what is the recommended oil type for a 350Z? A shop told me it was 10w40 Semi Syn? Im currently using 5w30 Fuchs Titan Race Pro S which is Fully Syn, as thats what the previous owner used and its damn good stuff. Would using a thinner oil like this cause there to be more oil burnt or a higher risk of leaking oil? Any advice welcome

That looks awesome, what are you all on about? Lol

Thanks Neil Is that Lambda Sensor in a hard to reach location?? Just wondering if it might be worth cleaning the electrical contacts on the plug first before going down the replacement route.

Thanks guys I assumed it had to be considering the alternative was a Cylinder 8 code lol. Im not too worried about the code as only had it a couple times and like I said its when you've been driving A roads for a while usually running at 1.5krpm ish in 6th for a lengthy time. Never have it when driven normally. I think it might be linked to a small leak on one of the Y-pipe flexi's

Thanks for all the input guys! I will top her up tomorrow and check again Those readings are 2100 miles / 2 months after its last service. It was topped up to just over half way between Min & Max on the dipstick at that point, which was pretty much all of the 5L bottle if i remember right. I'm pretty sure its got an oil leak somewhere tbh. Need to get the undertray off and get the engine bay steam cleaned and then check for leaks. Its used oil quick quickly since we got it in December, usually topping up about a litre every couple months - I assume this isnt normal?? The car is an 04 plate, VQ35DE with JWT Pop Charger, 5/16 Spacer, Berks, Nismo Cat Back & UpRev map. Currently on 85k miles, and has had a top end rebuild at around 40k miles as far as i know.

Hmm ok. That is after its been sat, like I said last time it was started was last night so its had around 24hours to sit lol! Dipstick was removed, cleaned, re-insterted, and pulled out quick to get that reading. Did it 3 times, always the same. I just dont understand the massive blob on the reverse side at the top?! And the fact its under the "L" mark on the side with the markings, and quite a bit above it on the other side Doesnt make any sense lol!

Hi guys, My Zed has thrown this code up twice now, both times when just pottering around at around 1.5krpm or so. It looks to me like its P0283.... which is a code for Cylinder 8 I suppose it must be P1283 which is Bank 2 Lean. Odd though as I thought codes were separated with 1 long flash, at least the ones I've had previously were. Heres the video link; Should I be worried about this?? The car has the following mods; JWT Popcharger, 5/16 Plenum Spacer, Berk HFCs, Nismo Stainless Cat Back & a UpRev remap. Thanks Matt

Hi all, Hoping some of you with more experience can help me out. The dipstick on the Zed is driving me insane, im not 100% what level the oil is at and I dont want to be causing problems! The engine is filled with Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5w30 oil. I've just bought a couple 1L bottles for top ups as the oil level looked low to me. But I've re-checked now the bottles have arrived and im not so sure now.... Here are some pics to help explain (sorry about the focusing, camera was intent on focusing on the floor ); This is the side of the dipstick with the level markings on it; Its just under the "L" marker (it was sat on the L before I took the pic); But.... on the other side; Its higher up, and there is a massive blob well above the Max line Confused!! The car hasnt been started since last night, so is cold. And that reading was taken by removing the dipstick, cleaning, re-inserting, and then pulling it out fast. I've found this gives me consistent results. Now the car drives fine, engine is very quiet, no tapping. The oil pressures in the car are just below the 60psi marker when doing 50mph in 5th (which I've read somewhere is the expected result). Anyone give me some insight please Thanks

Bump, could do with one! Its starting to annoy me now haha

Get a touch up kit from Nissan. Touch up the area so the scratch is filled with paint. Let the paint properly harden for a couple days and then have at it with polish/cutting compound to get it smooth with the rest of the paint. I did this with a massive 10cm scratch on my old car (accident with a needle stuck in a microfiber cloth ) and it made it very hard to notice. You could still see it in the right light or if you were looking for it, but it was hughly better than a scratch! And a LOT cheaper than painting the whole panel

Haha! We've just had the clutch replaced, and it was biting about half an inch off the floor because I had done this mod previously Re-adjusted again though, took even less time than before and its now lovely again Just a little tip; If you want to have the clutch pedal level with the brake pedal, but still be able to adjust the biting position with this mod - Simply undo the bolt holding the Cruise Control sensor on, wind the sensor down so that when the clutch pedal is released it sits level with the brake pedal, then tighten the bolt back up You can now use the guide to adjust the biting position to how you like it.

CAC are extremely bad company, I dont know how they are still going!! They have been doing scams for years and years now. Their website lists products they dont stock, they even list brands that they have never stocked and never will! I've spoken to sales reps for the actual brands and they have told me that their products have never been available to CAC yet they still list them as available! Usually they will let you order it, then phone you to say its out of stock but they can offer you a better product for the same price - of course this "better" product is complete tosh and something they have a massive markup on. You are lucky you got your money back to be honest. CAS are fine however, not had any problems with them in the past and plenty of my friends have bought products from them with no problems. A couple of my friends are even on their trade list