bazmcc

Just looking for some advice on motorised cubby lids. My 04 JDM had a motorised lid on the Jap nav unit, which I managed to break when removing the unit to send to Nurrish to have his system fitted. I could still use the unit but couldn't close the lid. I'm now selling the unit which another member is interested in buying, but his JDM import didn't have a motorised cubby lid to begin with. Is there any way for him to be able to get power to the lid easily? I assume that cars without the motorised lid come without the whole section behind the triple gauge cluster? (Cable from somewhere behind dash plugs into white box which is attached to rear of triple gauge cluster. From this white box a ribbon cable attaches to the lid) Can anyone shed any more light for me, or come up with a possible solution to get power to the lid?

Cheers I'd read about Cincity but had heard some bad reviews of them. Found some great sellers so I have options where to buy them but nobody seems to have pictures of them on the car at night!

I'm looking into new headlights for my 04 Jap 350Z. Want to replace the stock with r8 style or halo headlights, anyone got any opinions or photos of these on a 350Z lit up at night? Could only find a couple of photos of halo style so not got much to form an opinion with

Ah right, so my current headlights are HID?? I got the impression they weren't! I've had no MOT problems since I owned the car (over 4 years) so all good I guess!

If you can afford the trip then go for it, as others say it might drive well. But from the photos the seller hasn't exactly been up front about the problems with the car. If I was the seller I'd have mentioned that the cubby lid is slightly broken and that (from the looks of it) the boot solenoids may be broken. The car may drive well, but I wouldn't trust the seller, which may mean impending problems down the line. Just my opinion though.

Am I right in thinking that since my 04 Jap import doesn't have headlight washers that HID kits are illegal on my car?

Brilliant, cheers mate. I don't need to remove the mounts, will just need to remove the cover occasionally to fit things in the boot.

Looking into buying an OEM tonneau cover for my boot, but just wondering how long it takes to remove and what tools it requires. I've seen the alternative version available to buy and the fact it's push in/push out makes it appealing, but I just prefer the OEM version.

Minor thing, but even the centre dash cubby/nav lid is broken by the looks of things. This, along with all other things others have pointed out would put me off it personally. Long way to travel for a long-shot IMO

Hope this helps. I'm still waiting to hear back from them about a price without fitting http://www.nissan-aftersales.co.uk/acce ... earch.y=11

bump

Good luck with it mate. You'll also have to add the wiring loom and steering wheel controls adaptor which is another £30-£40. Let us know when you get on when you get around to buying one

Bluetooth is included and works well. Only downside for me is I can't copy my iPhone contacts list to the HU (which can hold 400 contacts I think) but that's an Apple problem, not the HU's. All other phones will allow you to copy over your contact list. I didn't price reverse camera, but I've seen it used with the HU and seems good.

I'm sure you can dim it, but I have mine set to blackout after a 10 seconds. There's all sorts of screensaver options in the settings. I've never had any problems with brightness/glare at night

Price now lowered to £225. Quite a considerable drop from the initial price so won't be lowering it beyond this point

now lowered price from £300 plus £10 P+P to £275 including P+P

Thanks Scubapics, forgot about dummy cassettes!

Yeah ask some people. The Bluetooth in the car should still work in my opinion, but since I have a Jap import my Bluetooth has never worked...

For full info on the system, check out this thread viewtopic.php?f=38&t=24395&start=420

there's 2 options for linking it through your stereo The first way is it has an FM transmitter that you simply tune your radio in to and it will work through that Second way is through a BOSE hack which is a simple fully-reversible procedure involving removing your standard head unit and soldering on a cable with a 3.5mm jack on the end, which then plugs into the unit I'm selling. You also remove a couple of pieces from the tape deck (pieces which can be put back in at a later date). What this does is fool the unit into thinking there's a tape in the tape deck and the unit I'm selling then works through this connection (i.e. to hear anything you select tape mode on the stereo). For more info on this method search the forums for BOSE hack - there's a full guide with diagrams I had mine hooked up using the second method with no problems at all.

yes it's touchscreen. Nurrish cuts the wires from the buttons and adds his own button in place of the joystick (in the silver circle on the right). This button acts as a power button for the unit. All other buttons could be removed and smoothed over

Maybe a bit late but +1 on the 840! Had it in for a few weeks now and VERY happy with it. Rear USB not a problem for me as I have thw wire feeding into my cubby box above the unit - easy access for USB drive or for iPod to plug straight into Only downside I've found is not being able to copy my phonebook from iPhone to head unit, but that's a problem with Apple, not the HU!

I'm selling my sat-nav unit made by Nurrish to replace my Japanese screen. Barely used - selling due to upcoming sale of car and I want to return it to original state before selling. Selling for £200 including P+P I have a video of my unit which I can show if necessary, but here's a link to the forum page with Nurrish's own video of the unit in action viewtopic.php?f=38&t=24395&start=420

In the original post, I take it wire J is the separate blue wire in the ISO loom in picture 1? What is the purpose of this wire? I have a similar ISO loom for my JVC KW-AVX840 head unit but the separate wire from the head unit is labelled "steering wheel remote". Wire G in the ICT loom is to be connected to "amp remote turn on" So is this still correct to join these 2 wires, even though I already have connector F and a head unit specific adapter in plug I? I've also noticed in my setup there's a wire from head unit to connector in my ISO loom for muting the telephone, but when plugged into my ICT loom the other side of that port is empty...

Ok, I can see how to attach the black/white ground wire but I'm still unsure of the other parts. I've attached a photo of my wiring all put together I've also seen another topic on this forum (viewtopic.php?f=17&t=31260) which I'm trying to follow too but it seems to tell me something different to do with the blue/white wire Black/white cable A on the BOSE loom connects to the black ground cable and these are both attached to the chassis using another piece of cable. Blue/white wire B on the BOSE loom should attach to the amp remote turn on from the new radio. But the remote lead from the new head unit (blue/white) already connects to a plain blue wire on the BOSE loom and runs to the largest of the white connectors on the BOSE loom. The loose wire (blue/yellow) from the head unit harness (labelled steering wheel remote) has no obvious place to go. The white block connector at the top centre of the photo is apparently for the steering wheel controls (according to the other topic linked above - marked F in that topic's photo). In that topic's guide, the loose wire from the head unit connects straight to my loose blue/white cable, but I'm not sure I follow the logic for that, given that one is for steering wheel remote and one is for the amp remote turn on... I also have a brown wire from the head unit harness which the instructions tell me is to the mobile phone system (tel muting) but there's nothing connected to the other side of the connector on the BOSE loom for it - any ideas on this too?