evilscorp

Made some brackets to hold the 350z coilpacks down in the tubes and allows me to keep the rubber seal so dirt won't get in, unfortunately the white/grey cover has to go.

I am not a style queen so nothing was measured or cut well lol.

Just need to get some more coils out the attic or buy new fresh ones.

Red will be welded and blue will be a length of pipe welded in place.

White will be removed.

Never really dealt with chains before so not sure how easy this will be to get a larger section installed, it came apart ok. Might end up using push bike chain and sprockets.

Looks fine, just need to pressure test it somehow.... probably with a running engine lol.

Also bought a Apexi power FC and hand commander as it was cheap on a marketplace.

Saves having to wire in a board that might not have a great tune, also should let me have a play about with mapping, just might take a while as the resolution isn't great for fuel maps.

Next step is to figure out how to wire and run a 350z maf (my old one as my car uses the uprated uprev one) this should be loads cheaper than the usual 300zx maf's which go for £100, and should allow power to rise from 280 to 380ish, not quite sure as I have only just started researching them.

If you have a slide hammer you might want to try pulling the flange with the wheel studs if you need it to be transferred over to the new bearing.

Remove the handbrake completely then try chapping the bearing clockwise and anti-clockwise to free off the rust, its in the hub a good 1/2" and a bugger to get off. I ended up getting a punch and tapping all around the edge to get the thing to budge, if the bearing if fooked anyway it wont matter if you miss and mash up the race.

New front main seal.

and new water pump.

but best of all... new turbo.

Started to make a bung for the EGR. Cut the old pipe off to use the nut then made a plate to weld on top,

Need to grind it down to see how well good the welds are and if there are any pin holes.

But as normal had too many other jobs to do around the house and helping out my parents.

Waiting on some materials coming but might get the angle grinder out and start cutting if I get time today.

So I watch donut media on youtube which then gets you into other weird places then next minute you end up driving 50miles to buy a broken kids quad and decide your strimmer no longer needs a place in your shed.

Kids quad minus an engine as it broke, fortunately I got some parts of it like the gearbox and exhaust and they fit my strimmer... hopefully.

The quad had a 40cc engine and the ebay strimmer is 50cc? So no replacement for displacement? lol (no doubt this will increase to a motorbike engine after trials).

So if you have youtubed barbie car you might see where this is going and why the frame is getting stripped.

The engine will be going here at the front, the brackets that are already there will help for mounting points.

The rear is the problem.

The drive sprocket is in the middle and the chain will be where my ass is going so I need to shift it to the right. Hopefully I can weld a flange onto the shiny driveshaft and simply unbolt the sprocket and move it over so the chain runs down the side.

Next issue is the rear suspension needs to go so the chain stays taught and drifts happen =) Not sure what way I will do this yet and I will have to reinforce the chassis front to back as the old seating location (everything behind the steering column is getting cut off to make way for a kart seat.)

The feet rests will be unbolted and I might try to use that steel pipe for adding width to the chassis.

I just missed out on a kids two seater pink porsche on ebay that would have been ideal so I will need to wait for something else to come up. (don't want to spend money, needs to be pink and big enough for me and the chassis to fit in, probably 1m long but need to measure.)

Love this sh@*t

Sods law, my blackvues came 180* rotated so it's either peel the double sided tape off and probably buy new stuff or tilt my head when viewing lol.

Never been able to fit cables through the center console and have too many wires behind the radio so had to find a way..... pole and some tape.

pain in the butt getting anything through there but might be handy now I know it can be done.

Rear light was removed ages ago as it and the rear screen heater are dead. probably just a fuse but I can't read my JDM fuse lid and it seems there are more than one I need to check..... so can't be arsed.

Watched the first episode and start of the second, a good test of driver skill with high level of entrants and cars look big budget. Hopefully they get some compensation for the damage they cause to them lol.

your reduced compression is definitely going to loose you quite a bit of power.

If the injectors or pump were an issue I would expect the graph to fall off a cliff when maxed out or show a different Air fuel ratio but all looks normal.

add some 11:1 comp pistons and it should pick up well at the top end.

Very good thread though, nice to see the different effects that each engine change brings.

As per usual, I take things off and buy new parts when they really aren't needed.

Swapped some pulleys for some shiny new ones, then damaged the crank pulley when removing it, should be fine but might buy a better condition one.

Also noticed the water pump wasn't smooth to turn in both directions (probably doesn't need to be as it should only go one direction) but it bothered me so I took it off and ordered a new one since its easy to do out the car, also ordered a new front main seal just to keep the oil in and things fresh.

started a wee video log on youtube but its pants and mostly for my own amusement at the moment.

What is people's opinion of this damage on my sr20det crank pulley.

The damage was my own fault when trying to remove the thing and not winding out the bolt enough when using the puller and it broke the flange at the three points the puller was attached.

The pulley in question is for the alternator and water pump its about 3/4" thick belt width, the only other belt is for the power steering which is in the next grooves on the smaller diameter section.

If it was for my 350z I would replace it but I am not so sure how much money I want to spend on this engine when I will probably end up swapping in a VQ35DE in a few/many years time.

The thing is very rusty and have washed and cleaned it up, I may spray paint if I reuse it as the rubber still isn't ripped but it is showing wear and marks.

The t28 s14 garrett turbos should fit (well one side so far) Just might need to shave some spots off the compressor housing depending on rotation (should be fine if the outlet is facing down) and the exhaust housing slightly touches the gearbox mounting point, not sure if gaskets on the turbo will space it out enough or if it will need a couple of mm shaved off the block gearbox mounting point(you can see the shiny part it was touching).

Unfortunately as i was doing it myself and have removed the head studs i had to hold the turbo+manifold+cylinder head on the block so not ideal for getting measurements or fouling points.

Bottom right part was the issue, standard engine mounts wont work either (probably).

dirty turbo, I want a new seal but can't find them on their own yet.

used a brass wire wheel on the outer area to clean up the oxidation, 

Have a hunt around the interior in the boot, probably find one there you can pinch to get by with. 

I think its just a common 10mm(or 12mm) flanged nut, I wouldn't use a washer though if you can't find a flanged nut as its too easy to drop into the engine from there.

So the other side is just the same, two opposite exhaust studs dont line up so will need to elongate the bolt holes.

only sheered one stud.... but managed to get it off eventually.

Surprised how many of the big manufacturer cast manifolds crack, not something I expected and had assumed it was confined to thin stainless manifolds without support brackets.

How are your stainless ones preforming? 

They look like they would give better clearance from the block.

Not the easiest item to lift and impossible to fit yourself when you leave the rear swaybar attached (note to self).

Filling the diff is also a pain as the fluid is so highly viscous it takes forever. My method was to leave it like this overnight.

All back together.

Until I noticed this..

Since I had previously used the oem rubber washers it seems the whiteline items have been squished or something as the metal washer is now obviously just resting on the metal sleeve through the center.

No biggie I guess just need to fit the oem rubber washers to fill the gap.

I also noticed my rear passenger shock mounting bush on the hub is ripped.... even though I am sure I fitted superpro ones, need to trawl through this pish talk of a thread to see if I changed them and what might have caused them to wear so quickly.

Cheap Ebay exhaust gaskets still havent arrived so I might end up in quick fit tomorrow so I can have the car for Friday otherwise its bike to work in the rain.

Also if it was me I would post the part in question so others know to check those parts when they buy them as quality control might not be up to par. And might save someone else a big bill for broken parts.

Looking at you whiteline and your diff bushes install instructions! :-p

As for the trader I would leave them out as they haven’t done anything wrong.

For the hassle it will cause to post the faulty cat back to America (presumably) and the cost it probably will incur to do so I would just find a decent welder, should only cost £30-50 to fix as you said.

It’s annoying, yes and I expect I will come across the same situation as I horde parts and don’t fit them but sadly that’s what happens as oem parts are built with machines and aftermarket are normally hand made in small batches.

just make sure your welder is decent if you don’t have good flexi joints or the oem bracket holding the cats 

So this is going to be very tight with the stock sr20 turbos T28's 

Need to do some googling in how to clock turbos and if I need new seals to do it... if I do I might give test fitting a miss for a while. (so I can get the 200sx back on the road).

So two holes need extending for the manifold and one other needs a cap screw as the studs are too long.

need to also research 300zx turbos to see whats the largest they have used before.

38 minutes ago, ZMANALEX said:

Oh yes they crack alright as many peeps including myself found out:

 

There are quite a few images on the web relating to this issue.

 

The HKS 2530 turbos and actuators are a tight fit with one actuator fixed to the turbo and the other being remote.

 

The Garrett GT2860 turbos which I am running now are as above with the same shoehorn and over-temperature challenges.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers Alex,

Looks like they just shaved a bit too much metal off to give the cap screw access, but that will probably be the same issue I will have with these hopefully not breaking through into a chamber.

As for the relocated actuator it does look hellishly close to the gearbox mounting face, are they mounted onto the upper engine oil pan with extended rods to make them fit?

Do you think you could fit a GTX2867 in there? Your compressor wheel does look very close to the manifold. (planned to upgrade the sr20 turbo to run a bit more power and then maybe down the line get another one lol or just use two oem sr20 turbos for the VQ.

I didn't touch the bearings or shims as they were good the first time I done them a few thousand miles ago so hoped it would all go back together nicely.

Sadly my paint pen didn't show up as good as last time (used yellow before and pink this time) I think there is too much oil on the gears as its not showing up very well but it is transferring a little.

Just said F it and blue rtv gasketed her back up, need to wait till tomorrow to fill her up a wee bit and check it doesn't leak out the flanges, it should be fine as i cleaned the seals and used silicone grease on them again which worked before.

1 hour ago, ZMANALEX said:

They are genuine HKS VQ35DE  manifolds Gary which I originally ran with my HKS2530 turbos.

 

How are you planning on coupling up your exhaust to the turbo flanges?

I am surprised cast manifolds crack, so you have two sets of the same kind? 

are the HKS turbos different or same orientation? I have heard I may encounter issues with the wastegate actuator being too close to the block, 

I have the oem sr20 turbo laying about so I might have a mock up of the lot if I get time, as I mentioned its just for fun keeping my mind thinking.