evilscorp
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Posts posted by evilscorp
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Sad times, I was told the car was finished by the restorer after months of waiting and false promises from the guy I turned up and it was half complete. Ended up being a paypal dispute but hopefully it's clear cut and I will get money back.
So it's back in my possession and I now need to see whats missing/broken and needing finished.
Most of the new floor and sills have been primer'd but the ones that haven't I have done, today I used cavity wax to stop any fresh bits in the sills going rusty, lets just hope I don't have to weld near them as I think the stuff is very flammable?
every crevice I could find I sprayed in, I bought 3cans and still have a small bit left in the first one. I will redo them all once ive finished welding any parts that need done (seat mounts were cut out and not replaced).
I may have lost some of my labels on the connectors...
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steering column welded in place, just need to make a bracket to extend the tie rod joining point, this should reduce the amount of steering angle needed to move the wheels and stop my legs getting in the way of steering movements.
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So things have been moving slow on this project as I now have 3.5 cars. I had registered interest in a new suzuki jimny and was told it would be next year before mine would be here.... then I got a phone call last week saying its at the dealer lol.... then my rust bucket 200sx that was away getting work done on and had been since April was ready (after being told this many times before) so I went to collect it. It wasn't ready but I wanted it out of the shop so took it back and now waiting on paypal to refund some money.
Some pictures of things:
first and only mod lol bit of carbon wrap to protect the metal as I will be throwing stuff in and out a lot.
In a sad state, hopefully the wiring is ok, just need to make some seat mounts as they were cut out and not replaced, also need to weld in the cage myself now and buy some dimple dies.
more mock up but this will be the ride height.
made the engine mount just need to do the frame to hold the body at the desired height and the 1 million other jobs.
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Not really sure what way the project will go, turns out I am stuck with the original small engine just now due to direction of these engines rotation, the gearbox reverses the direction which is ideal for going down the right hand side of the car.
Probably will barely get above 10mph but we will see, I have a habit of going ott but never actually completing stuff.
Anyway I found this on a facebook add for free uplift under a bunch of toys and wendy houses, it's ideal and FREE!!!
Also got a free bench drill and 3 free costa coffee's ( I was totally winning that day).
But the drill has no chuck so need to wait as it just spins the drill bit.
started to dismantle the car... lots of screws and brittle plastic light covers, also the body work slots are a pain in the ass to remove.
Errmmm it looks a bit big lol.
cut .... cut.... cut ...dead dremel .... angle grinder and hot molten plastic.
4x4 stance.
these suck to unpop/clip, soooo stiff.
getting there.
low rider.
So the issue is the quad chassis is too short (which is kinda a good thing) So I plan to cut the front off and weld in 5-6inches of pipe to get the correct length for the wheel arches. and I also need to angle the steering backwards to clear the windscreen, this might be the tricky part.
I am hoping I can cut the base plate and angle it without too much hassle and then mount the upper bush the other side of the cross beam.
might even be able to mount the seat like this but a tad further back after some chopping.
I might get away with it.
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Lol, thanks for the concern. The chassis is not even close to being complete, going to have some tube or L shaped steel members front to back to keep the toy car held up and to increase strength. The car windsheild might actually cover the direct exhaust line but I will probably wear my race helmet for a while.
Flame retardant pants might be an option as the fuel tank is going there but the chain will be down the side and I will be making a gaurd.
The engine up front should help stop wheelies but a bigger heavier engine might be needed =)
The tube is 1" so not bad the thin stuff holding my legs in is flimsy and will be getting welded and reinforced.
As I didn't have a body previously it was all a bit guess work but now I know where everything has to go.
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Need a milling machine or lathe in my life.
Trying to make a plate to weld onto the rear axle to mount the drive gear to (so I can swap it out for different sizes if needed. Got a stepped drill bit coming today to cut the central hole.
Placement of fuel tank for mocking up a fixing flange, also reusing some pipe for strengthening the frame and keeping my legs away from death chain.
starting the foot plate.
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I had seen a pink and gold lambo that I was going to get but the seller isn't getting back to me. A pink/purple jeep has come up in the town next to mine and it may suit the stance better now I can get the seat low enough.....
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Steering wheel and throttle sorted, just need to uncrimp a fitting for the carb to attach it.
Need to go to a scrappy maybe for a bike brake or something on the other side.
The seat also arrived- good point- it fits me perfectly.
-bad point- I can't mount it low down where I want as my legs wont fit/hit the steering and will probably get cut off by the drive chain.
So it might have to go here.
going to faf about with some mounts for it so I can move it about and see where's best to put it.
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Washer pump replacement was easy.... except I underestimated the amount of fluid it held.
6L + spillages I recon.
Cheers Alex,
My getto boost leak equipment was a fail.
The throttle body butterfly doesn't seal so the air was going straight out the exhaust I suspect but I did find a leak from the cosworth manifold, so I will need to use silicone gasket as the o ring is not sealing at the front top section right where a bolt is, tried to nip it up but no change.
Ordered a 3" plastic pipe end cap and I will cap off just before the 3" maf pipe as there isnt room to do it at the throttle body coupler.
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1 hour ago, Kieran O'Quick said:
Ah, thinking about it, mine is the revup and the belt is trapped. It had to be fitted before the SC went on. I've already burned and chiseled the hands enough to fit down to the tensioner.. Never thought of trimming the shroud.
It’s not truly trapped it’s just more of a pain, if you remove the tensioner pulley off from the front then wrap the belt around all the other pulleys you might** be then able to reattach the tensioner pulley. I nearly had to do that with mine as it’s so dam tight to pull over it(it’s either that pulley or another one that has no grooves so less to fight against.)
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If you have the right mindset and don't mind throwing money down the drain then its a good platform. For me vortech S/C power is probably the cheapest way to make reasonable power but it wont give you much torque or the shove of a turbo so the standard car chassis can handle it IMO. An Audi S3 or BMW 135 will be faster in a straight line or on a roll race (and cost the same as your z +mods).
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1 hour ago, Kieran O'Quick said:
Jeepers, good news if so. What's the rigmarole like for swapping the main belt? Is it SC off? I had a look at doing mine recently and gave up..
10 min job, if you have hobbit hands or cut the top of the oem fan shroud so you can fit down to use a ratchet on the belt tensioner.
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WRX 2.5L engines can't hold as much power as the 350z engine before it needs internal work, yes its cheaper to get more power than a 350z but you wont get that much if your hunting for 400+.
Turbos are easier to make gains but you have to set your budget and goals.
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Some of the work I done before the scare, never took photos of the rear strut removal and testing or the bush replacement.
Cleaned the top mount surface and primer paint and copper grease on the suspension top.
Hidden fuse box for the windscreen washer resistance test- no issue.
No need for air con. But if I had only waited a day or two, I could have saved this belt.
Car running without supercharger but a stretched belt. (no belt slap like the day before, probably due to being cold and slipping and no supercharger causing drag too).
https://www.facebook.com/gary.poyser.5/videos/10162400345215441/
Car running fine! Just no supercharger.
https://www.facebook.com/gary.poyser.5/videos/10162400339960441/
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If it’s your daily driver I will stop you straight away for points 1&2. Go straight to 3 and buy a faster car.
majority of guys that supercharge don’t keep them for long (some in this thread already lol) and the others crave more power and constantly think the car is going to blow up.(myself in that bracket) twin turbo or turbo will be out of budget unless you can fabricate and have ALL the tools to hand, and still be thinking the car is going to blow up.
Throw some money to make it handle and stop well then sell up and buy something faster from the factory.
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Not going to jump for joy yet but I think it may have been the worst ever sounding belt slap lol. Took the toothed supercharger belt off which was missing a tooth and swapped the big long belt off the crank pulley that runs everything, fortunately have spare and it’s now quiet without the supercharger (need to swap that belt on Tuesday as it’s a pain to do) so fingers crossed it was just a stretched belt, should have known as the tensioner has been maxed for ages and it had been squealing badly on startup for a month.
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So sad times for the Z I think...
Did a service the other day changine the fluid but used 5W30 oil (not sure if I had been using thicker stuff previously) also tried a different oil filter and went about checking the fuses for my non working windscreen washers, turns out I am getting 12V to the pump wires but no noise from the pump, new one ordered and feeling good. Until I decided to drive 10mins to work and then back again.
Pulled into my garage and started to hear a knocking from the front of the car.
Popped the bonnet and when I realised it was near the front of the engine beside the vortech supercharger (which is normally noisy) I instantly shut her down and grabbed a beer.
Working 12hours today and tomorrow so it wont be until Tuesday when I pull the belt off the supercharger to have a good listen but I already know its probably the bottom end thats started to go.
Sad times as I am now car less with my other one still away at the slow as# welder.
The only thing I could think might have caused it was me cutting the air con belt as it was looking frayed and couldn't be bothered replacing as the air con pipe has been burst for years. Maybe the change in force direction on the undamped crank pulley has given the bearings a new wear point which they weren't happy about.
Also my rear BC coilovers are on the way out.. they dont return fast at all when set to stiff and you can hear the fluid when set to soft (they return a lot quicker though).
Not sure what to do next, I might just park it up in the garage and deal with it later.
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I would like to hear from anyone with long term experiences with meister r suspension, mainly gt1.
i know a few of you gave detailed great reviews but how are they holding up after a years abuse?
my BC shocks on the rear are starting to be noisy and slow to respond when set to maximum stiffness. Still visually fine and ok when set to soft but I want better road manners and think a change is needed.
The car is only a road car so not bothered about track handling more rough B road compliance.
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Made the mounts but need more as the thing likes to shake bolts loose lol.
The exhaust might need to be re routed as it might get in the way lol.
But what a difference it makes, much quieter, now all I need to do is figure out how to set the idle speed.
I am undecided if I should make a middle jack shaft to keep the oem sprocket location on the back and use two shorter chains for less issues with tension or if I should just use an extra long one and try welding a plate on the rear driveshaft for the sprocket to be side mounted.
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Thanks for the tip rabbitstew, my spring compressors dont fit so I will try that method.
Took the old sprocket off so I can gauge how I am going to mount it.
It's going to be tricky to mount it central if i weld a plate to the rear drive bar.
This is a rough mock up of how i might have it all setup. Not a fan of the exhaust pointing at me but hopefully i can heat and bend the exhaust that I was given to point down the side of the car where the chain drive is so I know which way to exit in case of emergency lol.
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Not sure if my spring compressors will fit in the gap otherwise i would use them and just turn by hand. Needs some small c spanner or something.
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Anyone with bike experience know if the preload on these springs can be adjusted? Looks like they are at the lowest setting and it seems I am too fat for kids quad bike shocks (when mounted incorrectly). It should only need tightening up a small bit as it nearly takes my weight, otherwise its solid mounted rear suspension.
I might need to make guards or somewhere for my feet lol. The drive chain will dictate how high I can have them positioned.
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Thought I was gonna be super lucky today but only half came through.
The extra long bolts I need for the gearbox were the same size as my spare cosworth plenum bolts but sadly just a bit too long.
But the main good news is that it was only needing a new spark plug to get the engine to work again (new carb went on anyway but is a smaller inlet so I might swap the old one back.)
I used the spare spark plug from the box of parts I was given with the quad and it runs fine, just need to adjust the idle .
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On 10/09/2019 at 16:55, rabbitstew said:
That chain doesnt look very strong, would using a motorbike chain be better? Wouldnt want it to snap. Looking forward to seeing how this project progresses!
I think it is a motorbike chain, probably 2 or 3x as big as a push bike.
Cut the chassis today and decided to change my mind on rear suspension.
Going to use the shock (if I can) so I needed to move the tie in point further back so I can have space for a seat.
Just need to weld it into place once I am happy.
Obviously it will be going on straight just rough mock up.
Barbie cars... Grind hard plumbing co.
in Other Cars
Posted
It's very softly sprung so you can easily rock it just with light hand force, now I am used to it, I feel more confident in the corners.
It's slow, I haven't really gone past 3.5K rpm due to running in but the engine is noisy and so is the trans.
If you do lots of motorway miles don't buy one as the high sides mean you have to stay focused in case of gusts.
Good points;
Agricultural in feeling and will last a life time without issue, simple to fix.
With the rear seats down the side opening door allows me to get a couple of ice hockey kit bags in easily.
The visibility is by far the best out of any car I have driven, you can spot every corner, the mirrors point so low down you can see the full rear wheels for placement.
Averaging 40mpg on a mix of town, rural and dual carriage ways.
The gadgets on the base spec is decent.
Feels like a defender but smaller and more economical = reason I bought it.
They won't bring out a fast one as it would kill you in the corners but a few extra hp would be fine as my dads disco sport handles about the same but is more powerful.
Plenty of space to fit a turbo.... not even checked engine codes yet as I know suzuki do a 1.5 turbo in some cars and I have a spare gt25/28 from my 200sx. (keeping it standard and reliable).