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varley16

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Posts posted by varley16

  1. if you have the proof of the tyres you ordered, like an email or something, then that part should be easy.

     

    the alignment issue, well the ****ed that up, they should correct that, contact there customer services on that one i think.

     

    the EML being on, only thing i can suggest is get it diagnosed, if its something they have done you should be able to prove that, i.e. they did that as they worked on that are of the car.

     

    But i would get onto customer services straight away.

  2. i had a friend who told me of a friend that had tyre insurance, his tread was low, so he shoved a nail in it, let it go flat, then drove it so it scrubbed the edges badly, then claimed off it, they questioned it at first, but he explained that if the tyre goes flat or loses pressure then it would scrub the edges.

     

    sounds fishy when i said a friend of a friend, but it wasnt me, i can get tyres pretty cheap and fit them myself, so never had a problem with getting them.

     

    :)

  3. that would indicate the discs have got hot and warped, more likely to stay like that and vibrate under braking, you may get lucky and it goes, just carry on driving and if it vibrates under braking then new discs and pads would be required.

  4. you wouldnt believe the amount of people who would buy something like that due to panic at fuel prices.

     

    i had an s-type with ball bearings put in the fuel tank as they did the same with molecules and blah blah blah, ending up fecking his fuel pump up in the end, funny thing is we had to drain the fuel tank to remove the ball bearings, so it didnt save fuel as he lost a load of it.

  5. I noticed when we had frost and snow, when i open the boot it would have a habit of trying to smack me back on the head, its ok at the moment, so im needing some new struts.

     

    but my other question is, should it be one button press for the boot, as i press it, and it pops up, but it wont lift, i then have to press the button again so i can open it all the way.

    should be covered under warrenty, just want to make sure its faulty before i take it back.

     

    thanks

  6. on the cars ive worked on, if it loses it memory it wont drop.

     

    try reseting them, press and hold down on the window switch, when it reaches the bottom, hold it for 5 seconds, release, and then press down again, then go up, and when it reaches the top, hold for 5 seconds, release and then press up again.

     

    well thats the procedure on other cars ive worked on. should be pretty much the same.

  7. Their application guide is inaccurate which should ring alarm bells. The 350Z was launched in 2002 and not sold "99-01". Also the 99-07 Sentra had an integrated slim-line head unit not double DIN.

     

    Does it work if you plug in a USB stick with MP3s on it? I assume you bought the optional iPod cable?

     

    The stock unit only provides very basic control/display and a new modern head unit with proper iPod integration wouldn't cost much more! Alternatively the tape deck aux-in costs peanuts, works brilliantly, and soldering 3 wires is hardly "messing around" ;)

     

     

    just dont drop a blob of solder on the sofa, then panic and try and pick it up, it was either burn my finger or the wife kills me.

  8. i was thinking about doing the same, advice on here is great.

     

    i want to buy damaged cars, either fix them or strip them, unfortunatly ive not got the space to do it currently so will have to wait untill we buy our next house. got the tools, not the space.

  9. careful with this one. leaving the power disconnected might be a good idea. my ipod died in the car which I thought was cos i dropped it earlier so i bought a new one. all was working fine, then i turned my lights on and my brand new ipod got fried!? realised the problem is with my mod. how did that happen?

     

    going to disconnect the power part and just run the audio (once i get a new ipod). battery life on the ipod is 36 hours anyway.

     

     

    late reply on this one, the extra power and ground is just for the charging, i taped these up so wont touch to ground, i cant see just a simple wire would be ok to charge the ipod, im sure they would work on different voltages from the car, so i would think a converter or module would be needed to make this safe, the lead without the extra power and ground is then just a normal aux lead.

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