ma'z'y

Thanks ill drop them an email, im thinking the wrong flange was used during manufacture so i may try to get hold of the correct one and weld it on. What iv done with the dremel is doing the job but it will bug me if i dont sort it properly. I took it to the garage for their opinion but they said its the wrong exhaust which is incorrect because all the piping fits fine, just the flange is wrong. On another note, i was very suprised how much smaller and lighter the cobra was compared to standard.

I was aware of this as i sliced away but id had enough by that point.

So i spent most of today replacing my standard exhaust for a shiny cobra one. It took so long because i had to drill out the 'y' to mid pipe studs. Anyway when i finally arrived at the rear section i found the back box flange did not match up with the mid pipe flange as the back box one was much larger and the bolt holes did not align! Has anyone ever experienced this? I got around it by opening up one bolt hole with my dremel but not entirely happy with that tbh.

Its all been done over time when i felt things needed replacing so its hard to give a total amount as id be paying for replacement parts anyway, when i needed new tyres i bought wheels and tyres and sold mine on, discs and pads were upgraded when they were due and the rest was as and when, i bought the seats from zman alex for £400 but id say my car is above GT spec now in terms of extras so worth it for me. (all work was done by myself too)

I bought non-Gt also and glad i did because iv changed the brakes, wheels, sound system and installed leather electric seats which seem to be the main difference between them anyways.

Yep, i asked the same thing when i got mine. Totally normal.

Recieved mine today jez, very speedy delivery and thanks for the drum stick chewy bar :-)

Thanks.

Nice one . They look really good, did you get these off a seller or were they just random? I could do with some myself if you have a link? I know I could search myself but id rather use a tried and tested source.

The autos are semi auto because you can have manual gear changes by tapping the gear stick forward or aft. Unlike some, you can actually leave it in gear and bounce off the rev limiter without changing up automatically-hence you have to manally change up.

Hi mate, mines semi auto and i think its great. Im sure some people will try and tell you otherwise but ill bet half of them have not even driven an auto 350z. Iv driven both and took the auto, i drive it in 'manual' a lot but its handy to pop into auto in traffic or in my case to drink various gym supplements without covering the car trying to change gear. I find the gear changes quick and with my throttle controller extremely responsive. Iv taken my car around the track, drifting and 1/4 mile (beating an rx7 turbo) and its took it all in its stride. Any questions, fire away.

U could always do what I did: *LCD in the cubby (hidden with lid closed). *Connect Iphone (jailbroken) to LCD and HU. *Run all wires behind centre console down to coin tray, which is now my iphone dock. *Add a bluetooth keyboard and you'v got the world at your fingertips. Iv also got tom tom running on there and a few other "car apps" which show speed ect., ill be purchasing the latest wireless kiwi obd2 when prices come down a bit which will stream the cars sensor info right to my LCD via Iphone.

I think between camskill and mytyres you cant go wrong. Camskill had my fronts almost £15 cheaper per tyre yet my rears were cheaper at mytyres.

Im in if you make ten

Hi, thanks for the quick replies, yeah i was looking to do a few mods over time and then uprev. Iv not received the spacer yet so i cant measure it. It was advertised as a motordyne so should be ok to get my cash back. Id best email the seller. Thanks again.

Just bought a plenum spacer from a forum member which he thought was motordyne but its sloped/angled and iv not found any info on motordyne producing an angled spacer- seller mentioned it may actually be manufactured by altered atmosphere. Can anyone shed light on this for me and if so is it comparable to the motordyne 5/16 which i was after? Thanks.

Iv got two vredstien ultrac 235/45/18 worn more on the inside edge then anywere else (camber) but should be good for mot, ill double check tread and send u pics if thats any good to you? the center section of tread is good btw. i changed all my tyres together so have these in shed, was gunna track em. PM me if your interested.

pm'd

Right iv got it......... 350Z-TECH STOCK BASE - FRONT 7.5 225/50/17 SIDEWALL=112.5MM RADIUS =328.4MM REAR -8 235/50/17 SIDEWALL=117.5MM RADIUS =333.4MM TOURING - FRONT 8 - 225/45/18 SIDEWALL=101.2 RADIUS= 329.8 REAR 8 - 245/45/18 (35/ 18 WILL FIT) SIDEWALL=110.2MM(85.8MM) RADIUS= 338.8(314.4) So iv got good tread left on my front tyres which are Vredestein 225/45/18 on 8.5 wide alloys giving me stock dimensions'ish (slightly stretched because of the wider wheel). Ill go for 255/40/18 on the 9.5 wide rears (again slightly stretched but will keep stagger only 10mm over). 225/45/18 fronts - sidewall 101.2mm radius 329.8 255/40/18 rears - sidewall 102mm radius 330.6mm must be right this time

I thought by keeping the tyres (front and rear) within a small percentage would be what affected the Tc- surley it works by making sure the wheels are all turning at the speed. So as long as that difference between front and rear rolling radius stays the same it should work. Have i got this completely wrong or does my thinking make sence? Heres a good way to test what im saying- according to my theory we should be able to run any size wheels (as long as they fit of course) by keeping the rolling radius between the front and rear within stock percentage parameters? What you think ?

225/45/18 front and 255/40/18 gives a -0.2 % reading so i think id be seeing the TC light a little more than i want. Difference between front and rear stock is around 2.7% i think.

Getting some new tyres and want to go with 225/35/18 up front and 255/35/18 on the rear, i think the rolling radius difference comes out at 3.4 % which is only 1% (ish) over stock so shouldnt cause any problems with TC. If anyone can see a problem with this set up or has ran it themselves please chime in as it could be a very expensive mistake. ( wheels are 8.5 wide and 9.5 respectfully )

Yep i understand the rolling radius must be the same thanks. Hmmm i thort they'd look fine in another colour, each to there own i guess.

Getting my wheels refurbished and thought id get some opinions on colors. They are currently grey in the center and have a polished lip, i think this makes the wheel appear smaller than it is (18") so i wanna get the whole thing the same. Heres a pic although the polished lip has corroded over the winter hence the re furb. I know its boring but im leaning towards a regular alloy silver and changing the tyres for some low profiles instead of the stretched look.

I'd be interested in this mate, was gunna get a motordyne but if these work out as good I'd be happy to take one