GT4 Zed Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Yes, you should have been able to dial more camber in at the rear with your std cams/bolt. Improving front turn in or particularly grip is a function of several geo and suspension parameters. So just as its counter productive to dial loads of front camber without being able to address the rear camber the same applies everywhere hence why the more adjustability you have in your set up the easier it is to dial any characteristic you require with minimum compromise. So for front turn you need more camber but also less toe in or more toe out. How much you go for will be a function of the feel you are after, the type of tyres you have eg road vs semi slick vs slicks and acceptable tyre wear longterm. Damper(if you have coilovers) and ARB settings are also important so if you have them install it asap and find the setting that gives you what you are after. Finally, it is not just enough to have all the geo parameters set in the green. In the ideal world you need both ends of each axle to be the same or within a few tenths of a degree. That's what you gain from a fully adjustable setup. So my comment was that the disparity in Caster is too much ~>0.5deg/30mins left to right and given that there is a small adjustment possible with your DW arms they should have tried to even this. The SAI will even itself even when the rest are approximated. In anycase for normal driving you will be fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Great info and clarification sir I believe they dialled a bit of cross caster in as it's largely driven on the road, and to do with the 'crown' or 'cross slope' of the road and the drainage being on the left (? - something to do with that as Tony and I were talking about it ) And that it was better to have a little bit of disparity between them on the caster rather than the camber to achieve this. - don't quote me as that's my memory trying to work there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Ah......... it makes sense but it's such an uncommon practice especially in a sports cars. Yes you can compensate for road crown with dialling caster and camber but because more camber causes increase tire wear and temps (if on race track) only caster and indirectly SAI is adjusted since they donot affect wear. More positive caster makes lighter, easier steering from car on that side and heavier steering on the side with less caster but from a performance perspective it will feel odd when driving on a flatter road or track and it will pull slightly to one side especially on heavy braking. This also has implications on low grip conditions. So Tony's settings now all makes sense but these for a DD car not for outright performance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 So Tony's settings now all makes sense but these for a DD car not for outright performance. I'm popping the Eibach's on tomorrow, and will re-visit possibly next weekend if required. What would your thoughts be for road use (not DD in my case though) ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Front soft (rear hole) Rear medium or soft. ( Middle or rear hole) Remember the eibach ARBs like most others are stiffer than stock in all settings so don't be tempted to go hard. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 28, 2015 Author Share Posted March 28, 2015 Ah cheers for that mate, just done the front and having new rears popped on now... Already waaaay sharper steering! But actually what I meant was any suggestions on the camber/caster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted May 8, 2016 Share Posted May 8, 2016 How are these holding up for you? had my lower rear arm snap on track so looking to replace the junk thats there at the moment (front and rear) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted May 9, 2016 Author Share Posted May 9, 2016 How are these holding up for you? had my lower rear arm snap on track so looking to replace the junk thats there at the moment (front and rear) OUCH - that's really not good I hope you've emailed them with photo's etc ? I just had a recent geo done (more neg camber to tuck the bolt into the arm more), only once I've had to tighten one of the nuts up. But I've marked them (and other arms) so I can visually check before a hard drive. Ultimately I'd go with SPL if doing regular track days. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 How are these holding up for you? had my lower rear arm snap on track so looking to replace the junk thats there at the moment (front and rear) OUCH - that's really not good I hope you've emailed them with photo's etc ? I just had a recent geo done (more neg camber to tuck the bolt into the arm more), only once I've had to tighten one of the nuts up. But I've marked them (and other arms) so I can visually check before a hard drive. Ultimately I'd go with SPL if doing regular track days. Dont think Ichiba cares one bit... Thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted May 9, 2016 Author Share Posted May 9, 2016 How are these holding up for you? had my lower rear arm snap on track so looking to replace the junk thats there at the moment (front and rear) OUCH - that's really not good I hope you've emailed them with photo's etc ? I just had a recent geo done (more neg camber to tuck the bolt into the arm more), only once I've had to tighten one of the nuts up. But I've marked them (and other arms) so I can visually check before a hard drive. Ultimately I'd go with SPL if doing regular track days. Dont think Ichiba cares one bit... Thanks for the info! Ahhh I see, I thought you meant you had DW ones and they had snapped. On the rear I have phase 2 motortrend (P2M) camber arms (supplied by Torqen), which look like many others, I bought them as they came with lockout washers (but they are easy enough to make). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 went will the full set front rear and the traction rods... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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