TiN TiN Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 If so, can you send me a link? As I can't seem to find one.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desey Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 just gotta undo 8 bolts... use plenty of lubricant and a good 6 sided rachet socket as they will probably be coroded to sh!t do NOT use an open ended spanner, you dont want to be rounding off the nuts, that would be a big problem! get the car nice and high because ground clearance is nice, can get quite tight in there one of the bolts on the headers is hard to get to, you will have to go through the engine bay to get to it or have a very small rachet to go from underneath this video is ace, high flow cats and decats are the same size and always use axle stands obviously 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 (edited) That's the video I used when I did mine, but it really is straight forward. I think the brace between the cats is 4 bolts Manifold to cat 3 bolts each side Cat to y-pipe 2 bolts each side And obviously the sensor on each side, in the video they have a special socket with a slit for the cable but what I did was just unplug the sensor on the loom side and feed the cable through the right size ring spanner and that works just as well. I use the word bolts lightly as well, standard set up is a threaded stud and nut combo For that awkward one, like the video I used a combination of 1/2" extentions (will need to remove the intakes for this) Plus gas helps and I managed to do it all on my drive on axle stands Watch the video a couple of times and get familiar with the proceedure, can do it in a few hours but take your time as rounding a bolt gets emotional Edited April 17, 2014 by Scully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aidan Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 If its a DE , also need to move the intake pipe to gain access to bolt for passenger side. First time took me a few hours but managed it in less than an hour a few weeks back. All depends on how free nuts n bolts are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TiN TiN Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Thanks :-D will have a go on Friday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECG1000 Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Will this apply to the 370z? More or less...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Will this apply to the 370z? More or less...? Yes it's the same as my 350z HR apart from I believe something else has to come off underneath - I think that video mentions it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 (edited) Double post - stupid iphone Edited April 24, 2014 by Scully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam rs Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 The youtube video is usefull.Make sure you have plenty of extensions ready and a torch.Much easier than I thought it would be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT Driver Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 I've watched that video a few times, have yet to do it. Can somebody explain the engine management light issue- will this warning light always be triggered regardless if there is a bung or for the sensors or not? Also, does the car begin to run roughly after a while without any remaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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