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Diagnostic codes


Yellowgt4

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Hi guys I've had a search through the forum and saw a couple of replies for my issue. It's codes p1122 and p1126. I've had it for a while now. When I've had it in the past I've reset the ecu and relearned throttle position and all of that. It happened last week and I managed to sort it. But it happened again last night and wouldn't reset. I tried 7 or 8 times then eventually I had a throttle response. I went to car this morning and it struggled to start and when it did I had the same problem. No revs and eml, tcs and ESP lights all on.

I'm not sure where the relay for the throttle control is to check that. I have a Bosch kts 200 from my work to check live data and stuff

 

Any help or info on this problem would be greatly appreciated

 

Steve

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P1126 indicates that there is an open circuit in the throttle control motor relay circuit. That fault will also cause P1122, Electric Throttle Control Function.

 

The problem could be with the relay itself or in the wiring harness or connectors. If it is the relay, the relay in question is part of the IPDM E/R, located near the battery. Unfortunately, the relays on this unit are non-replaceable; Nissan wants you to replace the entire assembly, and they aren't cheap.

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I don't know anything about the circuitry involved so the relay could be a 12v or 5v if operated directly by the the control ecu. The voltage and internal connections may be indicated on the relay case. If so, and if a 12v relay remove it and connect a couple of wires to the coil contacts then connect these to a 12v car battery. You should hear the relay clicking each time you touch the connections to the battery. This only verifies the if the coil itself is ok. if a 5v relay coil then you need a multimeter set to resistance range (you can also use the multimeter to check the 12v relay in the same way). Connect it to the relay coil connections and you should get a reading. The resistance reading is dependant on a couple of things but so long as you get a resistance reading of around 100 ohms or above ( but not thousands of ohms) it would indicate the coil is ok. If you want to check the contacts thats easy as well and you will need a multi meter again, but check the coil first as it's the most likely cause of relay failure. But as said above the fault could also be due to the connections in the circuit to/ from the relay.

 

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Unfortunately, UK customers don't have access to their Service Manuals. However, you can download a USA-spec manual at http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/use-nicoclub-coms-factory-service-manual-database.html. Except for country-specific items, I believe the basic electronics are the same.

 

Look in the ec.pdf section for descriptions of trouble codes and diagnostic procedures. I don't think the relays on the IPDM E/R are removable, so your troubleshooting will have to be done at the connectors.

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Hi guys just an update on this. Thanks for everyone's help I've managed to fix it. I pulled the relay out and swapped with the front fog relay😱. The throttle relay had bad corrosion on one of the pins. I've cleared the codes and she's going well. Hopefully that's the last of my problem.

 

Thanks to everyone who contributed. This is why I love this forum, very helpful and informative

 

 

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