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some clutch problem?


andlid

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Hello!

 

Haven't used my car much since I got her back mostly sitting on the drive collecting dust and on rare occasions get out for a spin or trackouting.

 

Today I drove it and had issues with 1st gear and 3rd gear engaging properly. The first gear you can almost hear the thud from the LSD when you stick her in from neutral... 3rd gear starting crunching after I'd been motorway driving for a while and came of the motorway. It then went after a few stops... (was to scared to try and stick it in there so went from 2nd to 4th) I can't put my finger to what it might be, have no problems shifting when I shift the car (moving quicker...) this is when normal driving in town speed etc. I'm wondering if it's the clutch fluid needing replacing? It's like the clutch actually isn't engaging the clutch. Clutch is aftermarket and hasn't been abused and is rated for 600torq, and I only have 500 so shouldn't be worn! (done less then 1,000km). Gearbox fluid is Nissan OEM with molyslip. I got some motul 660 and planning on bleeding out the old fluid tomorrow to see if that makes any difference, any ideas what it might be lads? Had planned on a trackouting come Monday but if this isn't sorted it's not going anywhere...

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I get a crunching noise with 5th which I think is caused by a weak spring in the gear mechanism, if i have my hand on top of the gear stick and apply a little pressure downwards it makes a noise, if I cup the stick and pull / push rather than rest my hand on the top it doesn't make the same crunching noise. Wondering if that's similr with your 3rd gear.

 

As for 1st, Aren't they all a pig when cold in 1st/2nd, Does it get better if you warm the car up then put it in first ? that would suggest gearbox oil to me as it would be more viscous after a few mins of warm up.

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Maybe worth highlighting that you have a built engine and twin turbo's lol.

 

What kind of clutch are you using mate? Sounds like a synchro issue IMO

Oh yeah that too! Lol

 

Its a southbend clutch looks like an uprated exedy clutch to me. Would have thought syncro would be more likely quick shifting. Let's say I sit at the lights push down clutch release and down again then 100% of the time 1st doesn't hard engage when I say that I mean if I don't about half the times I can feel the LSD thudding if that makes sense. Nothing of this is loud btw just my X-ray hearing ;)

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Cd009 gearbox possibly? What about pulling yours off and getting it refurbished?

CD009?

 

Mmm can't believe the gearbox is gone after such low mileage with the TT, wonder if it was a @*!# assemble job... will swap the fluid out and hope that helps.

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I agree with Neil. Definitely sounds like synchros to me, the synchros on my box are shot and it does mainly show itself on slower shifts. If I'm really slamming it between gears it just feels a bit stiff, but on a more relaxed shift it'll crunch. Slightly odd you only seem to be having 1st and 3rd issues though, as 2nd is the most common 'crunch' gear in my experience.

 

DB

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Are you sure the clutch pedal is adjusted properly? can cause all kinds of weird engage/disengage problems if not.

Good q wouldn't know might look at that too... just follow the manual for that or any tips?

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Are you sure the clutch pedal is adjusted properly? can cause all kinds of weird engage/disengage problems if not.

Good q wouldn't know might look at that too... just follow the manual for that or any tips?

 

 

I would first give it a good bleed and refresh with fluid, and then make sure you have about 1/2" of free play before you start to get any real pressure in the pedal, re adjust by slackening the lock nut at the back of the clevis that attachés to the pedal, take it for a drive and get it hot and then check again, you may find that there is no free play (i think the reason is down to the whole std system is badly sized and suffers badly from transmitted heat)

 

Anyway thats my theory as i have flushed and re bled the system several time and still suffer from this, however have a look here, viewtopic.php?f=9&t=57546

and it may help,

 

If you find there is no play after its hot, re adjust, but don't over do it as you then may suffer bad engagement when cold, my clutch mod made a big difference to this problem.

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went out and sucked all the old fluid out of the reservoir and gave it a clean, smudge at the bottom of it :dry: new Motul 660 in there now. (might do some bleeding and see if it is clear or not coming out now). I had a look at the pedal height and its off from what the JWT manual said (found on the www) with a few cm (its 14cm and within spec is 17.1-19cm)

 

Where is the operating cylinder located under neath the car? Guessing I need to get there to really get fresh fluid into the whole system?

 

I read the JWT manual and the owners manual (service) and can't put my finger to what it looks like, took a few photos while looking around and my assemble doesn't sound like it's the same as described in the manuals or I'm just not getting it. Not sure why I need to play with the switch (ASCD) and not just do the locknut A and turn the pivot to get the 'correct' height.

 

This web link makes perfect sense to me but the manual's I read doens't http://forums.nicoclub.com/clutch-adjus ... 57828.html

(I'm not sure what he means with the pumping of pedal to "flush" the system, mine didn't even move any fluid when I pumped it (was filming it while I did it to see)

 

The link you posted looks mad :D I have a mad squeel from the clutch too so guessing the whole assembly need some greasing...

 

So I'm living in hope that my problem is that I don't have enough play to fully engage the clutch mechanism, it makes a bit of sense since it's different behavior cold or hot and it's not happening all the time.

(it also makes sense to my wallet :lol: )

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The slave cylinder is under the car attached to the side of the bell housing, there is a bleed nipple there, you just need to make sure that the reservoir is always filed, crack the nipple using a piece of tube into a jar, and just pump the fluid through, while keeping an eye on the reservoir and topping it up, once flushed through then treat like brake bleeding.

 

Not sue i agree with the stats stated in that write up, but regardless you do need a small amount of play, ( i removed my ASCD switch and the helper spring altogether) and use the upper stop adjustment to get the pedal hight i want, and then use the master cylinder shaft and turnbuckle/clevis to get the right amount of free play, but the difficult bit is keeping the right amount of free play when hot ;) which is the main problem, this is part of the reason for my clutch pedal modification, it actually increases the clutch engagement window, and makes it far more easy to control the amount of movement that takes place, like i said the clutch arrangement is crap IMO.

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Right so bled the fluid out today wasn't bad at all used bike brake bleeding kit. The muck that came out was a sorry sight. At least top of the line fluid inthere now. Gearing feels better but think I will do the adjustment of the pedal to to get a bit more feel. Will update later after a proper test drive with her warmed up.:)

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