ninjaz Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Hi everyone, hope someone can shed some light on this issue... I got in the car this morning and as i turned the key the "clicks" (you normally hear before the rumble of the exhaust) seemed really slow but it started. So i turned it off and tried starting again, it was fine and started first time. When i then left work and turned the key the clicks were even slower and it wouldn't start at all. After 5 minutes of checking the battery and its terminals weren't loose etc, i realized if i turn and hold the key turned for about 5-8 seconds the clicks gradually pick up speed and it starts. If i switch it off straight after this process and try start it again then it starts first time. If i then leave it for about half hour or so and try start it she just ticks and all the dash lights come on with no sign of starting, then after 2 goes of holding the key turned it finally struggles to life. I will be getting this check out when Monday comes but any help in the meantime will be much appreciated. Thanks, Ricky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zugara Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Battery needs changing i would suspect. Have you checked the voltage before trying to start her up? Or the key fob battery is on its way and you are not getting the immobiliser signal correctly. Thats my 2p worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HassanZ Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Battery needs changing i would suspect. Have you checked the voltage before trying to start her up?Or the key fob battery is on its way and you are not getting the immobiliser signal correctly. Thats my 2p worth. +1 My BMW used to click really slowly too, thought it was normal until my BMW specialist garage advised me my battery was on it's last legs and needed changing. When I replaced my battery, the clicking was much faster and started very quickly. It kind of sounded like the sound recording of the previous start-up was put on fast forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonk Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Mine was doing this, changed the battery and all fine now. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjaz Posted June 25, 2011 Author Share Posted June 25, 2011 thanks for the replies i don't think its the key battery as i tried using my spare with the same result... When i have left the car for a while and i turn the key to the first position it reads just over 8v.....this is when it wont start and i have to try a few times. Once i have started it and had the engine running for 30 seconds, when i turn the ignition off and turn the key back to the first position, its back to normal at around 14v and starts first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bronzee Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 Crank Position Sensor, common, known problem, was going to say. But maybe your alternator isn't working properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Impressed Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Sound like the main battery is fubared and is holding a little surface charge. Get the car started and drive it a bit. Stop it AT HOME Attach volt meter. (or use the one on the dash) Put headlamps on and watch the voltage drop. The battery in the key is only for the alarm and central locking. The imobiliser function is a passive device taking power from the car to transmit. This is why you can start the car with the valet key which has no battery. The only diference between the valet key and the normal key is that it wont open a locked glove box. Should we start a thread on little known facts about the Z? Thing like, The prop shaft is carbon fibre. The air con is dis-engaged during full throttle operation. etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaydnH Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 The air con is dis-engaged during full throttle operation. I think that's a good idea, I didn't know the above! Then again I have a roadster so my air-con is only fully engaged when I'm at full throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Impressed Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 The air con is dis-engaged during full throttle operation. I think that's a good idea, I didn't know the above! Then again I have a roadster so my air-con is only fully engaged when I'm at full throttle. And its "free air con" Whats a good idea? the little known facts thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaydnH Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Whats a good idea? the little known facts thread? Yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjaz Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 Thanks for all the help guys. It was the battery, went and got one and fitted it in 15mins so it was a nice and easy job!!! Thread sounds like an excellent idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Was going to say 8v is very low - get the battery changed - but you already have! Glad its sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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