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Pc type install - PROGRESS UPDATE


Nick U

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On the switch there will be 2 +'ve and 2 -'ve legs. When I did my first car PC I just used a paperclip to work out which pair needed to be bridged and then soldered the wires to it. I suggest though that you solder a wire on 1 +'ve and 1-'ve leg and then use a choc block to connect that to the Carnetix loom. That way its easy to disconnect the laptop from the PSU :)

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How's the install going?

 

Just got my hands on an old laptop and bought a carnetix PSU and Globalsat GPS receiver, will let you know how they all fit together once i receive them.

 

Mike,

 

Sorry been busy with work. Right, I have the screen all fitted into the cubby now although it took a little bit of modification to do so. First I filled, cut, and sanded about 4mm of plastic from the right side of the screen case. This ment that it just about went into the suround in the back of the cubby hole. It's not the best looking job cut job but it wont be seen so im not that worried about making it neater.

 

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It was a nice tight fit but I used four tie raps to make sure it stays in place also meaning that I can remove it if I wanted to at a later date. Seems very solid.

 

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th_SN202649.jpg

 

As I have absolute no experience with taking computers apart and building my own I opted for a ready made carputer instead. The idea being I can take it from car to car as I change them. Got this one from http://www.carcomputer.co.uk/content/view/8/38/

 

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The spec is:

1.6GHz Intel Duel Core

120GB SATA

2GB DDR2 RAM

Built in Bluetooth

Vista Home Premium

Centrafuse Navigation

Internet through USB dongle

 

(Planning to add a DVD drive at a later date if needed)

 

I also have one of these for the navigation. A USB GPS BU-358 SiRF Star III reciver.

 

th_SN202657.jpg

 

Just need to wire in the computer and it will be all up and running. The computer is going in the glovebox behind the passenger seat. Not sure where to put the GPS reciver yet will need to do some tests once it is up and running. My next problem is going to be how to get power to the bloody thing. Does anyone know a way to run cables through the bulk head from the engine into the car? Or maybe there is another power feed already in the car I can tap off? I also need an ignition feed for the remote cable so it turns on with the ignition.

 

Anyway getting there....... :)

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Nice 1 nick, good pics. I've spent all day pulling apart my laptop and soldering a carnetix P1900 power supply to it. Works a treat! Turns the laptop on and off with the ignition or remote pulse (which i am planning to get from the central locking).

 

WRT you question about the power supply, there is a 12V lighter connection just above the glove box which i am planning on using, will still have to get a permanent 12v connection from the battery though which is going to be more of a challenge!!

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Cheers guys, got it sorted.

Next question, do you know where i can get a remote pulse signal from the central locking system? I want to use this to boot up the system.

 

Cheers,

Mike

 

I like the idea of this.....any ideas chris?

Sorry chaps no idea. Mine is triggered from the HU amp trigger :) My best guess would be to run a wire from the wires that trigger the door lock. No idea where they are though. A better place but harder to trace yet again would be to tap it from the BCM.

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yeah thats how mine is done....but i really like the idea of when the car is unlocked the computer boots so when you come to sit down its up and ready to start using. Isn't too bad for me as mine boots in about 25seconds but still would like to do this......i shall do some research

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Wont be hard to do once you find the right trigger cable. Try my350z.com, they seem to have the most knowledge of these things :)

I shall have a look.....but just a thinking when the car unlocks the indicators flash(i think) so maybe this could be the way. By the way chris i brought a odb II adapter just wondering do you have yours plugged in all the time? Dont have my car at the moment but from the looks of it, it looks like it could pertrude a bit to much and get in the way....is that right or is it ok.

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Wont be hard to do once you find the right trigger cable. Try my350z.com, they seem to have the most knowledge of these things :)

I shall have a look.....but just a thinking when the car unlocks the indicators flash(i think) so maybe this could be the way. By the way chris i brought a odb II adapter just wondering do you have yours plugged in all the time? Dont have my car at the moment but from the looks of it, it looks like it could pertrude a bit to much and get in the way....is that right or is it ok.

Get yourself the service manual if you havent already. In section "BODY, LOCK & SECURITY SYSTEM" it tells you the pins of the BCM that are used. Sounds like it has permenant live and selective earth which could make it an arse to get it to trigger the PSU.

 

For the OBD, I took the case off the plug and wrapped what was left in leccy tape. Made it nice and slim line. If you leave it as it is, it pertrudes out of the dash quite a bit.

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Wont be hard to do once you find the right trigger cable. Try my350z.com, they seem to have the most knowledge of these things :)

I shall have a look.....but just a thinking when the car unlocks the indicators flash(i think) so maybe this could be the way. By the way chris i brought a odb II adapter just wondering do you have yours plugged in all the time? Dont have my car at the moment but from the looks of it, it looks like it could pertrude a bit to much and get in the way....is that right or is it ok.

Get yourself the service manual if you havent already. In section "BODY, LOCK & SECURITY SYSTEM" it tells you the pins of the BCM that are used. Sounds like it has permenant live and selective earth which could make it an arse to get it to trigger the PSU.

 

For the OBD, I took the case off the plug and wrapped what was left in leccy tape. Made it nice and slim line. If you leave it as it is, it pertrudes out of the dash quite a bit.

 

yeah thats what i thought from looking at the connector.

 

Shall rip it apart :thumbs:

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hmmm... interesting. Think it must be possible as one of the members was making a module that made the mirrors fold when the doors locked, so he must of used a trigger for that. Cant remember who it was though.

He was taking the trigger from the solenoid that unlocks the door. Thats what I was alliuding to first, but the BCM would be neater to tap into as you dont have to go to the door. Oooh, another idea, in the boot area there is a ruddy big loom powering the lights and most importantly the boot lock soleniod. Might be worth tracing that as it will have to come nicely past the rear cubby area. Means no chasing wires up to the front of the car :thumbs:

 

The only thing that might confuse it is when you do a double unlock to unlock the passenger side. Hopefully you do it quick enough, its still in boot up lockout on the PSU so it wont do anything with the signal, but if you dont get the IGN on before boot up lockup timer runs out, it might try and shut it down again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

Just need to wire in the computer and it will be all up and running. The computer is going in the glovebox behind the passenger seat. Not sure where to put the GPS reciver yet will need to do some tests once it is up and running. My next problem is going to be how to get power to the bloody thing. Does anyone know a way to run cables through the bulk head from the engine into the car? Or maybe there is another power feed already in the car I can tap off? I also need an ignition feed for the remote cable so it turns on with the ignition.

 

Anyway getting there....... :)

 

depending on what type of power supply you are using, you may need to run a cable directly to the battery through the firewall (i only use about 60W from a M2-ATX psu and so I haven't done this)... but if you want to do this then see the guide at:

 

http://liljerk.morpheus.net/350Z/firewall/

 

anyway, nice to see another 350z car-pc coming to life :)

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