Cosmic73 Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Some people recommend using the OE spec oil to break in an engine (5w30 fully synthetic I believe), while others recommend cheap mineral oil then switching to fully synthetic. Also, some swear by a hard break in, others a soft break in. Im erring towards cheap 5w30 mineral, soft break in, then switching to fully synthetic and driving normally. Anyone recommend different? Also, anyone used a breaking in additive before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 No offence to you but for the love of ICE - DO some research, and don't rely on forums ! You get one shot at doing this right. 😂 You'll have to decide what's best because you'll get conflicting info from well intentioned people. I rebuilt my engine at home 3-4 years ago, and had to break\run it in on the road, whereas 350Butcher had it on an engine dyno (not chassis). This is what I followed, listened to and did - is it correct/perfect - too late now 😆 https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/quick-tech-performance-engine-break-in-the-right-way/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yRudUHeSng (3 parts) I really like Lakespeed Jr, so have a search for him on YT (works with Total Seal piston rings now), huge amount of knowledge and very humble speaking to others: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJw1_levGew I used: Millers Oils CRO 10w-40 Competition Running In Mineral Engine Oil (call Opie Oils and see if they can help needs be). Oil viscosity (running in, and after) depends on your build and clearances on the bearings (don't assume stock is correct). After running in, drop the oil and carefully open up the oil filter and inspect it. You'll likely see swarf, so ensure that you have enough of your normal oil and filters to run it and drop it again to help flush it out, repeat as required, it will bugger off eventually. It's totally down to you how long you run it and drop it again (I verged on the paranoia side of things). It's one thing I didn't see many industry people talking about much. I use this for cutting the filter: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09J2M1WVX/?th=1 Good luck 🙌 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cosmic73 Posted January 23 Author Share Posted January 23 23 hours ago, RobPhoboS said: No offence to you but for the love of ICE - DO some research, and don't rely on forums ! You get one shot at doing this right. 😂 You'll have to decide what's best because you'll get conflicting info from well intentioned people. No offence taken but doing research is what i'm doing. Also, asking advice in the technical section of a forum specializing in 350z is something i should be able to rely on. Thanks for the link BTW, it was interesting to read about piston fuel wash upon first fire up, but IMO removing the injector relay and spark plugs before fire up is what i plan on doing. This allows the engine to gently pre-lube and pressurise while it's turned over a few times, then i'll fire it up The general consensus is to use mineral oil (breaking in oil all the better) so i've bought 5L of Millers running in oil. I'm aiming to get the engine up to temp by fluctuating the rpm between idle and 2,500rpm. Once hot, i'll change the oil and replace with 5W30 semi-synthetic for the first 200 miles of 'sensible' driving. After that it's the normal fully synth oil and normal, fun driving. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 (edited) use a proper breaking in oil not a mineral oil. something like this https://aaoil.co.uk/product/driven-15w-50-mineral-break-oil-br/#:~:text=Driven break-in mineral oil,the critical running-in period or the Millers like you have brought, I would runt his oil for 300 to 400 miles , the car needs the motor working to bed the rings in this will help with oil usage at a later date. Best way to break the motor in is on a dyno as you can load the car nice and easily and controlled. Bore wash isnt going to happen on 1st start , for a engine to bore wash needs a huge amount of fuel normally a misfire or a issue causing the car to black smoke. Pre lubing is a good idea thou best to crank over with the plugs out as well and over fill the motor with oil to help the oil pump pick the oil up. Edited February 2 by Mark@Abbey m/s 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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