russyb Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 (edited) right guys here we go I upgraded headunit today but ran into sooo many problems I have a 02 plate fairlady z and as far as I can workout it's a non bose ???, but it has a sub behind seat with an amp. Had massive issues with earthing and realised stock headunit appears to have no earth so made my own. Problem was it wouldn't turn on which was sorted once I ran earth through. Then everything functioned as it should but no sound.... So researched and heard that blue wire on headunit(switch) needs to be wired to amp, problems really started here as I can't work out what wire it is. as my stock headunit just has 2 plugs nothing else. So anyway while this was going on the pioneer headunit decided not to switch on so I assumed maybe I had caused a short so went through every fuse to check continuity not one had blown. So check volts at the main stereo plug live which was fine as was harness live and several other points heading towards the new headunit. As a last resort I plugged in the original bose headunit which... u guessed it now also doesn't power up I'm using one of these iso connectors Anybody had this happen and can point me in the right direction as I'm lost Cheers in advance Edited February 14, 2016 by russyb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 Might need a bit more detail if you're after help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russyb Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 more added 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russyb Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 bit more research has pulled up that even though constant live is fine, there is also another live as you can remove cd on stock bose hu with keys removed can anyone confirm this ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 (edited) The picture of the harness above would only power the front speakers. On the bose *sorry there is another white four pin block that feeds the other speakers. Edited February 14, 2016 by davey_83 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russyb Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 (edited) Definitely only 2 white blocks on mine and no phono leads buddy Edited February 14, 2016 by russyb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrG13 Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 Haven't done this myself yet so can't be sure but have you triple checked your new earth connection? if it was working and now it isn't you may have dislodged the new earth connection and the old unit wont work with incorrect wiring so maybe that's the first place to start... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrG13 Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 Also check this out may help.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrG13 Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 also last but not least check out the build log on here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/55445-wiring-in-a-new-hu-this-guide-may-help/ Good luck and let us know if you fix it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russyb Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 Thanks for the above buddy but both guides are for full bose not non bose like mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88 Zed Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 I fitted a pioneer SPH-da 120 in my 02 JDM import non Bose and I had to swap some of the wires around to get it to power up. It was confusing because the previous aftermarket pioneer worked fine! I ended up using a power probe to identify lives / earths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russyb Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 heres what I have guys..... and weird still it doesn't seem to match any wiring diagrams I can find as before any help welcomed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russyb Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 (edited) this is closest I can find but still not correct Edited February 15, 2016 by russyb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrG13 Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 ok so found this: Hi, the wiring diagram for plug m40 is as follows , looking at the back of the stereo the 10 pin socket is numbered 1-10 starting at the top row of pins ( as you are looking at the back of stereo ) counting left to right 1 3 5 6 7 9 the bottom pins are 2 4 8 10 1 . black ( front left hand speaker - ) 2. white (front left hand speaker + ) 3. red ( front right hand speaker - ) 4. green ( front right hand speaker + ) 5. green /white ( antenna signal ) 6. yellow ( perm 12v + ) 7. red/yellow ( illumination signal ) 8. red/blue ( lighting switch ) 9. shield 10. blue/green ( 12v + switched ) Now I know its not the colours are different to what you have but if you can reverse engineer the wire positions and check with a multimeter then you may get lucky, on top of that I also found this: managed to do a little more work on the car radio tonight. took another look at the wiring diagrams and decided to connect the green and white wire to the output 12+ cable labled "amp" This then powered up the radio booster pack and as a result the radio sprung to life. Good stuff From here: http://www.350z-uk.com/index.php?showtopic=33915 from the looks of the loom you have pictured I would say some one has already linked both the white/blue and green/white which would overide the antenna signal to the constant live to may mean the stereo was on permanently. but if you can swop around the pins on the loom you have purchased you may be able to get it working! Only other thing I would suggest is seeing if the head unit you removed has a pin out sticker or a model sticker so you can google that and then work backwards to what your loom needs to be connected as... Hopefully that will help until someone with a bit more hands on knowledge can join in and give you an exact run down of what to do! haha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrG13 Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Loads of info on here as well so give it a read through, also includes connector diagrams for the bose connections but again if you test the wires you may get lucky as it seems to be the same connector types for both bose and non-bose so can't be too much of a huge difference hopefully.... http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/14773-got-the-headunit-out-but-what-is-this-connection/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russyb Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 cheers buddy voltage lowdown wires on big block pink/black - 12v grey - 3.9v blue/white - 3.4v red - 3.6v orange - 3.5v blue/red - 0v green - 3.6v white - 3.5v green/white -0v wires on small block are all 0v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrG13 Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 (edited) Were those readings with the ignition turned on/acc/off?? and okay if we cross match what you have compared to the connection explanation found above you would get as follows: 1 orange - 3.5v 1 . black ( front left hand speaker - ) 2 white - 3.5v 2. white (front left hand speaker + ) 3 red - 3.6v 3. red ( front right hand speaker - ) 4 green - 3.6v 4. green ( front right hand speaker + ) 5 green/white -0v 5. green /white ( antenna signal ) 6 blue/white - 3.4v 6. yellow ( perm 12v + ) 7. no connection 7. red/yellow ( illumination signal ) 8 blue/red - 0v 8. red/blue ( lighting switch ) 9 grey - 3.9v 9. shield 10pink/black - 12v 10. blue/green ( 12v + switched ) which would mean there is some discrepancies between the illumination wire and the shield wire as they seem to have swopped on your connector or there just never was an illumination light which is also a possibility if the other head unit just had the lights permanently on... the second block does seem to be all the harness for the harness from the speakers so I would hazard a guess that is why its all negative a no complete circuit would show no voltage drop. if however I put in the connectors from the M40 connector for the bose stereo from the page i referenced last time you then get this: -left front 1 orange - 3.5v +left front 2 white - 3.5v +right front 3 red - 3.6v +right front 4 green - 3.6v +Power Ant 5 green/white -0v +Backup 6 blue/white - 3.4v No connection 7 Illumination 8 blue/red - 0v Earth 9 grey - 3.9v +Ignition 10 pink/black - 12v Which makes more sense as now you have both the illumination and the power ant on zero volts, well I say this as long as you had the ignition not set to acc or on and your lights were off at the time you took the readings lol! As ignition key to acc should show a spike in voltage on the green/white cable and if you turn on your lights you should see a hit on the blue/red cable. Any way from what I can fathom you should be running from this diagram: but then using the colours from this diagram but flip the pins 180 as if you are looking into a mirror as then all the colours seem to match too... EDIT: made spacing around the pin out puts easier to read, copied and pasted from an excel sheet and it all went haywire :/ Edited February 15, 2016 by MrG13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrG13 Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 And just to add anyone who actual has any clue of what they are doing feel free to churp in as this is guess work by myself so far and I completely admit I am out of my depth but it's all making kinda sense to me.... but yeah OP if you can see if thats how you new loom connects the wires to the new stereo then you should be on to a winner, the only had part should be seeing which wire goes to which speaker but you can check that by looking at the actual speaker connections or attempting to work it out from the connector/socket diagrams above and hoping the colours stay true....strange how its a non-bose tho and those are diagrams for the bose system with matching wire colours...I think the other post did say it was from a JDM car rather than a UK version though so maybe thats where the indifference lies.... Either way don't forget to update us if anything explodes/catching fire/randomly starts working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russyb Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 Voltages were all from acc key setting Cheers for all the help buddy I'll report back asap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrG13 Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 I think the reason for no power is because of the green/white cable which should be the power ant what's the green/white cable actually connected too? It looks like its to a brown connector in your pic and not actually connected to anything, if this is the case then was it from the old head unit or was there another connector behind the stereo that this was attached too? If the above is correct (in ref to the diagrams) and this is your power ant cable then your not going to have power to the unit until this is reading a high voltage, it is normally kept high (3-4volts or sometimes even 12V) but could be a system that trips to on after a short spike of high, (when key is turned high voltage is sent to stereo and then drops back low, head unit reads the spike and switches on) so a) if it is connected to something in the car, wire it back up and see if it goes live at all from no keys to engine running and sat at idle, (and if it does slap yourself for the school boy error and celebrate as you now have power! ) or if it was from the old head unit, (which would confuse me more lol) plug all the old head unit back in and see if there's any voltage from the pin out at this wire, or c) if you can't remember plug in teh new stereo and then remove the purple and black tape of the white/blue and the green/white then wire them together or optionally as a quick test short the pins of the connector block using a piece of wire/paperclip/some fag packet paper, (shiny side up) if you don't feel like stripping and fiddling either way that should get you some power, hopefully....if still no joy check the fuses of the head units them selves, I don't mean to be condescending but some times the old, 'turn off and turn back on' basics get over looked when your heads in a problem and always worth another mention... with the no speaker output it could be first bad wiring of the connector block again (most likely) which you can either use the flip method i mentioned above for the correct output and hope, as that seemed to be the case last time, or simply open up all the speakers and look at what colour wires are connected and pray there isn't anything in between the wires behind the head unit and the speakers which could cause a colour change....and I say simply but secretly mean difficultly as getting to ever speaker is far from simple from what I have seen on other threads haha! again have to mention to triple check the earth, especially when diagnosing and if you're installing your own, if in doubt run along wire straight to the negative on the battery whilst checking just to be sure (although this is major overkill lol) that should keep you busy for a while so let me know how it goes aaand your welcome! ill be running back here when I get around to fitting a new one myself....although I am thinking android tablet in place of all the standard sat nav equipment that is out of date and pretty naff....decisions decisions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russyb Posted February 15, 2016 Author Share Posted February 15, 2016 the green a white wire runs into a brown plug that appears to have relationship with the aerial my best guess is for the power ant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrG13 Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 the green a white wire runs into a brown plug that appears to have relationship with the aerial my best guess is for the power ant if you can find out where that plugs back in you should regain power in that case, may be worth peeling back the tape and checking for a break in the wire if you still struggle, if not then use the hot wire technique to cause a constant on for the time being... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russyb Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 OK well tried the green/white wire today still didn't have any volts so tried the hot wire method and ran enough volts through it but still nothing, The green/white wire comes out of loom and into brown plug which goes to power ant I guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrG13 Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 if you are getting both the power and power ant with a high voltage then the headunit should turn on at least, only thing that would stop it is a break in the circuit somewhere, so check fuses, check no pins are missing from the head unit, check the new earth cable you installed and make sure you aren't relying on the one which was installed into the old head unit, if none of that works then I am all out of ideas for now sorry :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russyb Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 found this link http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/news/ipod-solution/nissan-350z-new-head-unit-using-original-bose-amp/ which appears to show my exact plug config so ive ordered the exact iso they used and copy wiring will report back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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