djtimo

Looking at cars for a daily at the moment and quite fancy one of these two, F10 M5 or e63 BiTubro. Has anyone owned one on here or knows of any common issues with ether car??

The old M5 put me off with gearbox issues... Hope the newer cars don't have any major problems.

Any input very welcome

Thanks.

Ouch! you do have to elongate the bolt holes in order to achieve full adjustment.

Yeah I will need to elongate the hole I wish I could just use a rose joint for sold adjustment like camber.

Bent over for £60 for two bolts What a rip off!! Oh well I'm at 10mm toe in on each side ATM so these will hopefully sort that!

Just checked CS and they only sell camber and toes bolt kits 1 kit per wheel. I just need toe bolts? Plus they all seem quite expensive for just some eccentric bolt?!?

Just after rear toe bolts for a 2003 car. Need them asap so UK sellers better

Thanks guys

Strange how people still use string. I came from the Racing World were we used String to set up cars originally and they are good at race tracks but I so prefer a modern alignment rig to base workshop set ups so more accurate I feel.

 

TBH I would of used an Eibach rear camber/track kit comes with eccentrics to allow the track to be adjusted correctly.

 

CW's look good diagonally typical RHD car with front right being heavy.

They didn't have a hunter later set up at the shop mate. very basic TBF but were 5 mins from my house and seem to know what there doing lol..

You need toe bolts or just by toe arms and be done with it. I needed them and I'm not low at all.

So I am miles away from getting the car under 1400KG.... With new passenger seat I lose 7.5.... Carbon hatch will save me another 15-20kg... Racing battery 6-10kg... 37.5kg max from those

Also the rake angle was 15mm front to rear to start with and this has been reduced to 10mm due to my lack of rear end grip.

Just picked the car up from the set up.

He did say they have had issues as you always do but safe to say the car is almost underivable lol... on the way home 40mph felt dangerous as the back end was moving about over bumps and shaking the car about while cruising. Im hoping its this huge amount of rear toe in causing these issues.

I'll tell you why in a second.

I dropped the car off this morning to have it set up. It need alignment and corner weight/cross weighting. I get a phone call at 2pm saying they have run out of adjustment on the toe bolts on the rear and its at 10mm in EACH side!! I've quickly ordered some drift works toe arms tonight and will fit these ASAP to sort this issue.

The have completed the the rest of the set up and it just needed to go back in for the toe adjustments when i have fitted the arms.

Ready to go on the scales.

On the scales.

The car was set up with 100KG ballast in the driver seat too.

Old skool racing string set up!

Some of the notes of car weight and set up.. Car weight with just over 1/4 tank of fuel is 1469.5kg 20L of fuel weights 15.1KG so a basic dry weight eg. no fuel is 1454.4KG

The end cross weights were this with ballast in the car.

The car will be going back in with in the next few weeks to have the rear toe sorted so ill let you know how it feels after this!

Mirror less all the way.. I only use Sony gear now for my work and the image quality is excellent.

Just fitted my DW rear arms today. Pics In my buldthread

UPDATE

Car goes in monday for set up so I needed to get my camber arms on ASAP.

Local DIY garage again

Removing the old arms... WOW the car is dirty underneath i WAS clean a few months back lol..

Eccentric bolt section

You have to drop the roll bar off on both sides to get the bolt out.

New arms in place. The length was matched to the old arms to make sure I'm not a million miles away on camber until monday

Corner weights.

 

Hope you have adjustable roll-bar links? to stop any jacking of weights when the spring platform or damper lengths are adjusted

 

We only look at getting the diagonal weights the same LF+RR=RF+LR

 

work to around 5% and that will be good enough

 

we not in single seat car never drive on a flat piece of road and never normally brake in a straight line so no need for perfect corner weights ( you cant get perfect corner weights on ours car unless you start running different rate springs on the same axle) as our cars are biased due to being RHD

 

Yeah Mark have Adjustable drop links etc. I think there gonna disconnect the roll bars set up and then adjust the drop links to match.

 

I think I'm just gonna get cross weights correct as I know you can't really adjust the front rear set up etc. Mark do you have any idea on best rake angle for 350z's??

 

There using 100KG ballast in the driver seat (I'm looking to lose weight lol) too.

 

We have found around 10/15mm rake works best. We measure on the car sill lips (that hang down) approx 15mm from each end of the sills.

 

I must admit my Red track car needs a little more rake feels like it has too much weight transfer when exiting the corner under power maybe needs a little more weight ont he front , if we harden the damping up we just break traction , we aren't to stiff on the springs either , think 10kg front 8 kg rear (roughly) from my memory.

Thanks mate, that looks like a far amount of rake! I have the nismo side skirts so can i still measure these?? I was looking at going off arch to floor hight? or is that not the best?? I know chassis rail would be better but its a PITA to measure

My car is being balanced and set up Monday

 

Be interested to see what the car weighs now youve taken pretty much everything out ! Whats your guess ?

 

TBF i don't even want to guess. Its a TT car so heavy due to that but I would hope a decent amount lighter. I still want new pax seat plus CF boot lid and doors so that will help too

 

Mines a right fatty @ 1630 kg ! With half tank of fuel .

WOW yeah lol.. where did you measure that??

UPDATE

Clear coat has cured now. Masking coming off.

Mr Post man has dropped off some Alu plate for me to make up a heel rest from

All masking off and seats refitted. Passenger seat is back in for corner weighting on monday as my new passenger seat will not be here yet.

Next job was to fit my carbon dash blanking plate for where the radio head unit was.

After making a card template the CF was masked off and clamped between two bits of wood to cut on a chop saw.

Nice clean cut

Very tight press fit into the back of the dash. Some very small tabs needed to be removed with a chisel.

Added a bead of clear silicone to make sure it does not come lose.

Re-Fitted.

Now to make a heel plate next and fit my new camber arms.

My car is being balanced and set up Monday

 

Be interested to see what the car weighs now youve taken pretty much everything out ! Whats your guess ?

TBF i don't even want to guess. Its a TT car so heavy due to that but I would hope a decent amount lighter. I still want new pax seat plus CF boot lid and doors so that will help too

Corner weights.

 

Hope you have adjustable roll-bar links? to stop any jacking of weights when the spring platform or damper lengths are adjusted

 

We only look at getting the diagonal weights the same LF+RR=RF+LR

 

work to around 5% and that will be good enough

 

we not in single seat car never drive on a flat piece of road and never normally brake in a straight line so no need for perfect corner weights ( you cant get perfect corner weights on ours car unless you start running different rate springs on the same axle) as our cars are biased due to being RHD

Yeah Mark have Adjustable drop links etc. I think there gonna disconnect the roll bars set up and then adjust the drop links to match.

I think I'm just gonna get cross weights correct as I know you can't really adjust the front rear set up etc. Mark do you have any idea on best rake angle for 350z's??

There using 100KG ballast in the driver seat (I'm looking to lose weight lol) too.

My car is being balanced and set up Monday

Finally finished the clear coating... PITA due to @*!# British weather.

Oh well best i could do in the spitting rain/high wind. The car is drying now outside so ill snap a pic later

This build thread is inspiring, love to see this car at shows this year? Looking forward to seeing what future mods you have planed ������������

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks mate!

I will try and get to a few show this year but I'm just tied up all the time lol..

Futre mods are on my little "to do" list

Finished of the masking this morning ready to start laying some paint

First coat of etch primer down

I did a few coats of etch primer just to make sure it was a nice even base layer and dried it off with a hair dryer to help speed things up as its cold and damp outside today

Struggled with little bits of dust from the clean up coming lose with the hair drier These had to be sucked up with a gentle hoover.

First dusting of nissan WV2 gunmetal

Few more coats.

Passenger side looks like this too but forgot total any pics lol..

Car is now drying off overnight. Ill shoot the clear coat tomorrow Looking miles better now its painted!

Good progress Tim������������������.

Getting the R888 was one of the best mods I'd done on the car and after doing about 3k miles on them including driving daily since mid December in the awful wet greasy roads I totally sold!!

There is hardly any wear on them still albeit I've one done 25laps at the Ring and half day at Bedford.

The wet grip is decent and predictable but I've been careful to avoid significant standing water.

Pressure wise I'm running 34-35psi for road use and on the track I found 29-30psi to be about right. I always have the rear 1-2psi less than front.

 

My advice will be to hear cycle them properly before heating the track and inflate them with nitrogen so you have more stable pressure on the track and keep an eye on the temp/pressures until they are stable as the tyre can go off suddenly if too hot. I found this out with Bob on at the Ring on my very first lap on the R888 on the zed.

I have a michelin pressure gauge and just got a mid level pyrometer to keep. Good investment!

 

Finally there are fantastic deals to be had from oponeo and tyreleader. I got my set 245/40/18 275/40/18 delivered for £700! Considering it used to cost me far more with a set of MPS 255/35/19 295/30/19. More grip for less buck = win win in my book.

Edits mods please delete

Good progress Tim������������������.

Getting the R888 was one of the best mods I'd done on the car and after doing about 3k miles on them including driving daily since mid December in the awful wet greasy roads I totally sold!!

There is hardly any wear on them still albeit I've one done 25laps at the Ring and half day at Bedford.

The wet grip is decent and predictable but I've been careful to avoid significant standing water.

Pressure wise I'm running 34-35psi for road use and on the track I found 29-30psi to be about right. I always have the rear 1-2psi less than front.

 

My advice will be to hear cycle them properly before heating the track and inflate them with nitrogen so you have more stable pressure on the track and keep an eye on the temp/pressures until they are stable as the tyre can go off suddenly if too hot. I found this out with Bob on at the Ring on my very first lap on the R888 on the zed.

I have a michelin pressure gauge and just got a mid level pyrometer to keep. Good investment!

 

Finally there are fantastic deals to be had from oponeo and tyreleader. I got my set 245/40/18 275/40/18 delivered for £700! Considering it used to cost me far more with a set of MPS 255/35/19 295/30/19. More grip for less buck = win win in my book.

Hi mate, yeah the R888's are great. Ive had a set of new ones on the front for ages now and did have a set of old part worns on for awhile but there were well past there best.

Im running the car at a lower 33-34psi on the back too as its lighter now and OEm 35psi in the fronts. Cant wait for a little bit of sun to come and dry the roads off so I can see what there like!!

Just mine of drift works 10% off at the moment and good quality.