Muddy

I had quite a large trip today up to Revolution in Newcastle to have some final bits and peices fitted and to have a full fast road geometrey setup on their fancy computerised system. Anyways after a 280mile round trip I still have just under half a tank of fuel left . The computer says I've still 205miles left in the tank (I think it's a bit optimistic though!!) After being in Subaru's for 9 years I can tell you that it was a pleasant suprise I stayed at 70mph on average all the way though, not sure what it would be like above that. It was also good to have a good shakedown for the car, everything stayed as it should and nothing fell off Another week or so and the car will be ready

Probably from the intake pipework I think it comes from the right hand crankcase. Somebody with more technical knowledge may be able to confirm or deny though. No need for a crankcase breather as most people with 350Z's keep a closed loop, not sure what effects this engine has on venting it too atmosphere. (I did this on the Subaru)

What kind of turn around can your guy make one in James? I'm on the look out for one, but there doesn't seem to be any decent ones available - in a short time frame...

I've had the car 5 months, but only driven it half a dozen times, everything is new on it and I'm about to do a 140mile trip in it, was just a little apprehensive thats all, not really used to rear wheel drive cars yet -- had AWD for 9 years

It does but I shall be keeping it in case I return to standard

Well I've just spent 2 1/2 hours trying to adjust the spinal cord/combination switch and I've finally got it working properly (IFingers crossed). A battery reset finally got it working as I had it set up correctly but it was still coming on, must have had it in memory or someting. Thanks for the help guys. Something to bear in mind too when changing your steering wheel -- DONT MOVE THE COMBINATION SWITCH/SPIRAL CORD

Ok, think I might know what it is... Done some reading and lots and lots of things effect the VDC (EPS to us in the UK) and slip lights. One of them being the Steering wheel sensor. Having just removed the steering wheel and spinal cord/combination switch, it looks like I've turned the spinal cord too many times perhaps?? I'll have to strip everything down tomorrow and hope I haven't broken anything, and hope I can reset the B**er. Don't know how I'm going to do that though, could take quite some time I would think, to move then try and then move and try again.. Would be helpful If I had Nissan Can bus software to check the angles. I'll let you know how I get on. Craig (Still fed up though)

Just read the manual and it says you may hear a clunking noise, which I hear. It also mentions not to change brakes and suspension, but I've had no problems with my new items on stock wheels. down in the dumps...and car's still not finished..only 2 weeks to go

Thanks guys for the help so far. I've disconnected the battery and taken it for a spin -still happened As soon as I've left the drive, say 10 metres the car kind of come under some resistance, as if the rear diff is locking up a little, the slip light flashes on and off a few times, whilst the car is in a kind of limp mode and then once both lights are on the car seems to be ok and normal. obviously with the exception of both lights on. Not wanting to give too much away with what I've fitted but I'm wondering know if it is the wheels and tyres. As the steering wheel and foot pedals (And even the plenum spacer I've fitted shouldn't cause this) Am I safe to fit the stock wheels on the rear to see if it clears, or do I need to fit all stock wheels. The reason for the drive up to the North East is to get the geometry and ride height set up with the new wheels on. It's going to rain on Thursday too, and being a relatively new driver to the car I'm abit worried without no traction control.

I've just been out in the car around the block. The lights come on about 5 seconds after setting off, It looks like although it is v.fast that the slip light flashes then both lights come on. Car goes sluggish at same time, there sounds (Although I might be imagining it) like a clicking sound (1-2 seconds) then the car is fine, and drives fine. Although I haven't driven the car that much to know really if it's good or bad, the engine seems to rattle like nobodies business The lights remain on until the ignition is turned off. I've carries out an ECU reset, but no change? Initially thought it may be my new wheels/tyres, but I've been out in it a couple of times since them being fitted and had not noticed it before. Anybody any ideas? Fed up now (Wish I'd never bothered with the car:( )

I've just reversed the car out of the garage and the EPS off and Slip lights have stayed illuminated on the dash. Turning the ignition back on and off again, resets them. But if I drive off again, they come back. Iv'e tried a search on here and on My350z, but got no real results. I've fitted a steering wheel and some pedals to the car since the last drive out, so can't think of the life of me what the problem is! Is there a reset for this? Nothing is coming up on an OBDII scan - no engine error codes! Anybody any ideas? Iv'e got a big drive up to the North East on Thursday, don't want to have any problems for the drive. Any help is much appreciated? Muddy (Nothing has gone right with this show car build )

New site looks Chris, well done to you and the team

Black vacuum tube cut down centre

They will detatch, they are plastic spot welded from the back. If you remove them you will be left with 3 holes..

LOL Stew. It will be ready in 3 weeks if everything goes to plan Ian - I'll give them a call thanks

LOL Stew. It will be ready in 3 weeks if everything goes to plan Ian - I'll give them a call thanks

+1 ^^^^^

As above, Autosmart Tardis or a very good glue/tar remover from autobritedirect.

I personnaly wouldn't leave tech wax any longer than 10mins per panel. As it's not a "proper wax" it's made of synthetic polymers and the like, so it's curing capabilites are completely different to a more pure wax product. If you use tech wax in the summer you will know why I say no longer than 10mins, it's not a very nice product in the summer months. Personnally I'd spend a few extra pennies and go for a true wax like poorboys, dodo juice, or chemical guys. Or opt for a high quality sealant like jetseal, Jeff werkstatt etc But if you like the results then stay with it.

Thanks for reply. Don't want to risk the colour difference between SFS and Samco. I know that they are a slightly different shade. Already have samco hose fitted, you see.

Does anybody know a retailer who has red samco silcone hose off the shelf. 10mm (9.5mm) internal dia straight hose in red. 6mm internal dia vacuum hose in red. Must be off shelf, can't wait for the 3-4 week lead time. I did have a contact who stocked it but have lost the details now

+1 ^^^ Transporrt wax, they all have it, well UK ones anyway

Strut brace bolt size is M10

Many options you can try it depends how brave you are. Autosol will polish up the aluminum very well. Top off with some Meguiars NXt polish. Or for any deep scratches rub down with some very fine wet and dry 2000, 3000, 4000 and buff off with an orbital polisher and a fine pad with some autosol. Or you can use a series of buffing wheels on a drill with different polishing compounds. You can pic these up on ebay for about £20.