Space Cadet

Thanks, strange that the Nissan schematic definitely shows a longer and curved piece, but glad to hear mine's all ok.

Thanks mate. I've just had a look at Google Images of a couple of other 370Z boot-lids, unsurprisingly there weren't many and they were US cars, and they only had the straight sections, not the 'additional' curved section. I guess therefore the Nissan schematic is incorrect, or old. My straight section is fastened to the lid with 8 or so little clips which must fix into holes in the lid. Just above where my straight section finishes there is a little hole in the lid and then another in the lid at the top where the curved section in the schematic would finish. I therefore assumed I was either missing a piece of trim or for some reason the previous owner had cut them down. To cut a very long story, I removed the weight in my lid, noticed that one of the trim clips was missing and another was broken. So I obtained a schematic from Nissan to order some new clips and saw that the rubber seals were different to mine. I then, probably incorrectly, assumed that may be the car has had a knock or been damaged and may be the paint-shop removed the trim braking the clips and for some reason broke the seals so cut them down. Have probably been watching too much CSI.......

Please see the attached schematic from Nissan and the items marked 90822M and 90823M in the bottom left-hand. These are two seals that run parallel down either side of the boot-lid on the underneath and when the boot-lid is closed make a nice seal against the rear quarter-panels. The seals in the schematic are approx. two-thirds straight and then the last third is bent at an angle. The bent part looks to follow the contour of the underside of the boot-lid and when shut would close down against the rear light cluster. Now the seals on my car only look to be the two-thirds straight part and don't have the bent third. There are two holes in the boot-lid either side where a seperate trim, or the extended three-thirds trim, may fix into, but why on earth would the previous owner cut the trims off??? Or possibly have the trims been amended for different year cars and mine only came with the two-thirds lenght trim?? Does someone please have a photo of the underside of their 370Z please? (Mine is a May 2010 car if that makes any difference) Thanks!!

Wow, they look great! I gave the car its first wash yesterday and once clean decided I really like the standard shadow-chrome colour so will go for that again and also because I want to keep it standard looking as probably wont have it for more than 12 months. A touch darker would look great but definitely not lighter.

Thanks, will give him a go.

Thanks, presume he's a Nissan dealer trader?

Perhaps I should've said the sound (or draft as you've put it) stopped, rather than seemed to improve, when I took the washers out of the spring poppers. On the basis that the boot lid is certainly not too hard to pull down without the weight, as someone suggested, I can only assume that the weight is there to counter-balance the strength of the boot lid struts and keep it sealed down against the boot. Its got to be one of the two and as mentioned I don’t believe its because of being too hard to pull the lid down without the weight. I've already said I don’t want to retro-fit some uprated springs as I think this will counter-act replacing the weight to keep the boot shut. The £140 is for two new spring poppers (!!!) a huge amount I know, but on the basis the lid weight is definitely needed and the standard spring poppers having lost some of their strenght and just wanting to replace the springs new for old, rather than uprating them, it’s the only option. As mentioned, what I will do first is simply replace the washers and see with the weight replaced whether they enable the boot to pop open.

I had the mid-silencers cut out at the weekend and replaced with straight-through pipes, all I can say is how happy I am with the sound now. It's only added say 20% to the sound level and the increase is only really heard at start-up and when under load - when poutling about its almost at normal levels. For those that don't want to fit a full system or even a back-box then would definitely recommend this, it sounds OEM still but with just a 'bit more!!" and IMO as it should've done out of the factory. It could actually potentially be even louder still and sound OEM.

As previously mentioned, I took the boot-lid weight out and also popped a couple of washers in each of the spring 'thingys', was driving along without the stereo on at the weekend and it almost sounded like a rear window (I know we don't have any) was open. I can only assume therefore that the weight is to help the boot-lid stay down and make a good seal with the rubber strips against the body-work. I didn't have time to put it back in, but just quickly took the washers out of the spring thingys and it seemed to improve. So I'm going to replace the weight again and see if adding back the washers to the spring thingys will be enough to pop it open properly, otherwise a set of new spring thingys at £140 (inc. vat) is unfortunately needed. (I don't want to retro-fit a stronger spring as this will presumably counter-act the weight of replacing the boot weight.)

Especially If you burn them. Bit of chemistry humour there. Very good, top marks!!

Thanks, much appreciated! Didn't realise our wheels are magnesium, that's a bit flash!!

Thanks and sorry about that.

Thanks everyone, good to hear it’s a trait rather than a fault! I'll try using a few more revs and see if that helps, just don’t want to look a knob pulling away and crawling along in traffic.

Thanks! The car has done almost 15k miles so I guess neither the gearbox or diff oils would yet have been changed. Wasn't something I was expecting to have to do but will give it a try. Is this a DIY on axle-stands job, or would it need ramps and a mechanic?

Apologies if its already been posted but couldn't find it using the search button. What torque do the wheel nuts need to be tightened to please?

Thanks, but would this really be an oil issue?

I've only had my 370Z for a few weeks now and its not a daily driver so I'm still getting used to it. Pulling away is no problem, but changing to 2nd smoothly at normal 'about town' speeds feels a bit awkward, I guess if doing the traffic-light GP it may be different but just trying to be smooth with the wife in the car without any head jerking is difficult. I end up feeding the clutch out slower than normal to smooth things out. My gut feeling it isn't a fault with my car but just a trait, has anyone else this 'problem' and a way around it? I've been keeping the Syncro-Match on, not sure if this would effect things?? Thanks.

I'm 50/50 at the moment, will either go for the shadow-chrome again and worst-case have both wheels on the same side refurbed in the future so as to match, or simply go for a standard metallic-grey and like you be able to get just the one wheel refurbed if needed in the future.

Thanks - so jack up using the diff and front member and then use the 4 side jacking points for the axle stands?!

Thanks, they look great, are they just a normal metallic grey?

A) apologies if this has been covered before but I could not find it and if its in the wrong section. I need to jack the car up and leave it on axle-stands for a week while I have my wheels refurbished. I'm fine with the whole concept of jacking it up and leaving it on stands, but where please is the best place to position the four stands? Any diagrams or photos would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in advance.

Shadow-Chrome - that's it!! Couldn't remember what it was called. If its an 'out of the tin' colour then will definitely go for it. it was just that the refurb guy (who I know reasonably well from having had lots of wheel done there) said that it wasn't a normal type of paint/or procedure and that it would be impossible to get a perfect match if wanting to do just one wheel again in the future.

Thanks I'll take a look.

I agree the OEM colour looks great and really suits the car, but as mentioned if I/we marked a wheel in the future it wouldn't be able to be matched again as the colour is not a solid 'out of a tin' colour. I think the smokey colour is got by lightly layering black on top of silver (or however they do it), so say it takes 4 passes of black all four wheels would be done at the same time and all would match but if in the future I curb a wheel the sprayer would have to know it took 4 passes and what procedures were taken. That's why I'm thinking a standard 'out of the tin' metallic grey or similar would be easier and if I curb a wheel in the future I can just have it refurbed with "metallic grey, paint code 1234".

Yes, thanks for that!