Cosmic73

So far the work shop manual has been great. Very clear and easy to follow.

However, I realised that you and remove the rear timing housing until you also remove 2 hidden bolts from under it. These aren't shown in the manual.

One is here on the outside,

And one is here in the sump,

Then the rear housing came straight off!

Timing housing is stuck fast so I reckon it's going to take a while to slice thro the joint. Been using a butter knife but I might try a feeler gauge tomorrow.

However, cams etc are all removed.

It's been raining all day which means i can spend a good day in the garage and it's been very productive.

I've now removed the cam sprockets, chains and half way through removing the cam carriers.

Tomorrow's job week be to remove the rear timing housing. 🙂

I bought an impact socket from Halfords and the crank bolt cracked straight off, happy days.

I'm now struggling to get the front timing cover off, because the 2x steel dowels are too tight and rusted. I'll get some heat into them tomorrow and see if that loosens then up 🙂

This flywheel bolt is being a right pain.

I managed to lock the flywheel using a nut and bolt;

My 1m long bad boy breaker bar definitely provides enough leverage

But the socket simply split open.

I assume I need a much stronger impact type socket?

I would spray some seafoam into the air intake while the engine is running then take it on spirited drive to clear it out.

10 hours ago, ZMANALEX said:

The best way to get the crank pulley bolt off is to use a breaker bar and socket and jam against the front chassis leg and flick the ignition key, however, I guess that it is a bit late for that now as you have disconnected the electrics.

 

So if it is really tight then you will have to lock the flywheel and the bolt should come loose using a good breaker bar and good socket.

 

Otherwise, attack from the front using a powerful impact gun and impact socket.

Yeah, it's too late to let the ignition do the work, but next time i'll remember to do that first

I have removed the starter motor and jammed in a crow bar but the problem is;  i just can't get enough leverage on my little 40cm bar.

Yep, definitely agree about a good breaker bar. This 1m long beast I've ordered should shift it 😈

I've watched the video, it's just my breaker bar doesn't look as long as yours. Mine is only something like 40cm which is why i've ordered a 1m bar. 😈

This weekend I tried to undo the crack bolt and it won't budge. Even after liberal amounts of wd40 and bouncing on the end of my breaker bar (I'm 15stone) it ain't moving.

I've ordered a new 1000mm long breaker which is more than twice the length of my current one so I hope that bad boy does the job.

In the meantime I've removed the heat shields which was a pig of a job. 3 screws rounded their heads so I had to use moler grips.

I've also undone all the exhaust manifold nuts ready for the heads to come off.

This evening I removed the rocker covers and timing chain covers, yah,

22 minutes ago, davey_83 said:

Nice work, I can also recommend a lightweight crank pulley while you down there too - very noticeable gains in engine pick up throughout the rev range and driveability. 

 

 

 

Thanks Dave, I really enjoyed the vid. My current pulley is well rusted (as are the idlers etc) so I'll be looking to replace the whole lot

On 22/10/2023 at 14:22, davey_83 said:

I have one hooked up to the PCV valve and have done for years and years. Currently plumbing a 2nd one to the pre throttle body intake, so both banks are looked after and the intake receives all filtered air. 

 

Is that a universal can or custom made for the Z? How much was it if you don't mind me asking?

Got the wiring loom fully disconnected and pulled out the way of the engine, alternater removed, PS bracket removed.

Next job is to remove the rocker covers and the timing case.

On 22/10/2023 at 17:31, ZMANALEX said:

 

Good luck with the project 🙂

Coil packs are sealed and should prevent splash getting passed so it may be a crack in the head.

When you look inside the spark plug tube, can you see any signs of a crack?

So, What's top of your Christmas pressie wish list this year?

Mine is a 1000 N/m impact gun 😇

9 hours ago, ZMANALEX said:

Are you removing the engine?

 

If so the PAS pump can be left on the engine.

 

Disconnecting and reconnecting the main loom from the engine will add 4 hours to the job.

 

Coolant tube below showing fixing points.

 

Cheers mate. I didn't realise there's a hidden 12mm bolt that fixes the tube flange to the housing. Got that unscrewed and the tube came straight out.

I also didn't realise the PS can slide sideways out it's bracket which I've also done.

No, I'm not taking the engine out, there's no room in my garage for a lift. I'm simply stripping it down from top to bottom. It's how I've rebuilt all my previous project car engines.

3 hours ago, Eddie_r32 said:

Mishimoto use this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305209675383?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=inlepoudtoa&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5jaHyDhxT--&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

I fitted mine on my old 350 by putting a strap on front of engine between the v

Thanks Eddie, did you send the right link? It shows a universal can for £16, blimey that's a good price. The Mushimoto ones I saw are like £300,

I know this was discussed in the past, but some of the links don't work and pics are missing.

Like the post asks, I'm also looking for a good quality catch can recommendation and fitting instructions. I don't want to spend more than £150 if I can help it?

Thanks, Neil 

15 hours ago, ZMANALEX said:

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=350Z+power+steering+pump&source=lmns&tbm=vid&bih=679&biw=1243&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiinrext4eCAxU9cqQEHQoQAU8Q_AUoAnoECAEQAg

 

Also, worth mentioning, is to leave the main engine loom all hooked up to the engine and disconnect at the ECU and pull in through the firewall.

Thanks for the link. The problem I've got is I don't want to pull the PS hose connector out the pump to access the hidden side bolt.

I reckon by removing the coolant tube, then the heat shield, I should be able to access the bolt and suspend the PS pump out the way.

I spent ages trying to pull the tube out but it just wouldn't budge. Of course I find out there's a hidden 10mm bolt underneath where it connects to the housing, doh.

The wiring loom is pretty much disconnected from all its engine sensors and can lay across the windscreen, 

16 hours ago, davey_83 said:

Good work that man and be careful with the breather hose that joins the valve covers as this is known for splitting 

Thanks Dave, yes that breather hose won't budge and will snap the converter if I pull any harder. I'm going to just leave them connected and remove the rocker covers as a pair.

Finally got to spend as few hours in the office this morning and got really stuck into the engine disassembly.

I have to say I'm quite enjoying this project. The workshop manual is clear and easy to follow, the engine is a great design with plenty of room.

So far I've removed the wiring harness, air collector and intake manifold. Next will be the rocker covers and timing case.

The spark plug from cyl 4 has melted a bit so I'm keeping my fingers crossed it hasn't melted the piston or block because that will be a whole world of pain.

In trying to take the PS pump off and there's a hidden bolt at the side of the block I just can't get to. Anyone have any tips?

28 minutes ago, Ben@TORQEN said:

Inch pounds (black) / Foot pounds (white) for the torque setting

Ah, now i see it,

They all have Nm as their primary torque, but their secondary torque (in brackets) can be inch pounds or foot pounds,

Thanks for clearing that up 🙂

On 12/10/2023 at 22:31, ShortPaul said:

Possibly torque settings I am guessing 

I know they're torque settings, but why are some black on others white?