Jump to content

Cosmic73

Members
  • Posts

    162
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Cosmic73

  1. My Nissan 350z pistons and pins arrived today and I assembled them into the con rods.

    The fit between the pin and rod bush is snugger then the fit between the pin and the piston. In fact it's quite a loose fit between the pin and piston where I would've expected an interference fit.

     

    This means the piston/pin interface will act as the wear surface, not the pin/rod bushing.

    Below is a video of my concern, anyone else who bought pistons noticed this?

     

     

     

  2. 23 hours ago, RobPhoboS said:

    No offence to you but for the love of ICE - DO some research, and don't rely on forums !
    You get one shot at doing this right.
    😂
    You'll have to decide what's best because you'll get conflicting info from well intentioned people.

    No offence taken but doing research is what i'm doing. Also, asking advice in the technical section of a forum specializing in 350z is something i should be able to rely on.

     

    Thanks for the link BTW, it was interesting to read about piston fuel wash upon first fire up, but IMO removing the injector relay and spark plugs before fire up is what i plan on doing. This allows the engine to gently pre-lube and pressurise while it's turned over a few times, then i'll fire it up

     

    The general consensus is to use mineral oil (breaking in oil all the better) so i've bought 5L of Millers running in oil. I'm aiming to get the engine up to temp by fluctuating the rpm between idle and 2,500rpm. Once hot, i'll change the oil and replace with 5W30 semi-synthetic for the first 200 miles of 'sensible' driving. After that it's the normal fully synth oil and normal, fun driving.

     

    • Like 1
  3. Managed to sourced a refurbished revup crankshaft and bearings from Conceptua tuning. The runouts and diameters are spot on which was a relief.

    So, the rebuild has officially begun.

    Below is the fitted crank and mains ladder.

    I should have a set of Wiseco pistons arriving next week, 95.5mm with 11:1CR so fitting them is the next job.

    IMG_20240120_125304241.jpg.817fc0af5942ba009003095c3f2c93b1.jpg

    • Like 3
  4. Some people recommend using the OE spec oil to break in an engine (5w30 fully synthetic I believe), while others recommend cheap mineral oil then switching to fully synthetic.

    Also, some swear by a hard break in, others a soft break in.

    Im erring towards cheap 5w30 mineral, soft break in, then switching to fully synthetic and driving normally.

    Anyone recommend different?

    Also, anyone used a breaking in additive before?

  5. The piston/ring set from Conceptua are for DE (non-revup) engines and he can't confirm if they're compatible for revup.

     

    From what i've read on various forums, non-revup (DE) piston/rings will work in a revup block.

    It's only the original revup pistons that need their own specific OEM revup rings. Is that definitely the case?  

     

    So, can anyone tell me if these DE pistons/rings will work in my revup block?

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112600053511

  6. If you mean conceptua, I've just ordered a refurbished crankshaft/bearings, OEM timing kit, head bolts and gasket kit from them. It all arrived a few days back and looks as described.

    The crank & bearings are now with Knights engineering, along with the block and con rods for them to check the bearing clearances so I'm hoping to start rebuilding it by the end of the month.

    • Like 2
  7. 15 hours ago, Willsy1980 said:

    I hadnt actually looked into them, but id be looking for alternatives to those. Unless you want to drop £6K on them 😄 Can buy another Z for that 😆

    They're definitely $1k for a set of 6, not $1k for a single piston, that would be crazy price.

  8. 2 hours ago, Willsy1980 said:

    I hadnt actually looked into them, but id be looking for alternatives to those. Unless you want to drop £6K on them 😄 Can buy another Z for that 😆

    £6k is a lot as they're forged.

    It appears they may supply non forged at a much cheaper £1k.

    https://www.wiseco.com/product/auto/pistons/professional-nissan-vq35de-piston-set-95-50-mm-bore-2/

     

    Is anyone aware of other alternatives?

  9. After ordering the rings from Amayama, they've told me there's none at their supplier so that's me totally stuffed.

     

    Can anyone tell me what options I have?

    -Are there any rings at all that fit revup pistons?

    -Are there any piston/ring kits that will work in a revup block?

  10. 1 hour ago, Willsy1980 said:

    Personally, if using OEM pistons then i'd use OEM rings. You really don't want to be rebuilding it twice for the sake of rings. Or just buy the Wiseco piston and ring set, more cost but at least you know its right 1st time 👍

    I'd love to use OEM piston rings but for the revup engine they're no longer available, anywhere.

    They were discontinued by Nissan years ago and I can't even find aftermarket ones anywhere, including US suppliers.

    IS that what everyone doing a revup rebuild does? Fit new pistons?

     

     

  11. Does everyone here order OEM engine parts, no matter what the cost or happy with quality aftermarket stuff?

    By aftermarket i'm talking reputable companies not dubious Ebay shops!

     

    For example;

    Timing chain kits range from ~£220 (FAI), to £600 (OEM) with lot's in-between.

    Engine rebuild kits range from ~£300 (Victor Reinz) to £430 (OEM)

    Head bolts range from £96 to £184

     

    I've used FAI & Victor Reinz stuff before without any issues and I'm not upping the power, so why pay almost double for something that would make no difference?

    I'm sure there'll be scare stories of not ordering OEM, but head bolts for example are stated 'OEM spec' but not OEM itself so what's the point anyway, if it's not really OEM, just the same spec as OEM. Might as well as be honest and just state 'after market'

     

    I've been meaning to order stuff for weeks and haven't got the foggiest what or where to order. Any recommendations?

    Thanks, Neil

     

     

     

  12. One advantage of working for an engineering firm is that I can use the gauge lab facilities to measure my block and pistons with real hitec equipment.

    Considering all bores are stamped as grade 2 on the block, they've all stayed at grade 2 except cyl 6 which opened up to grade 3, however very little taper on them all.

    Pistons were also all grade 2 and remain grade 2 so happy days.

    • Like 3
×
×
  • Create New...