Cosmic73

Yes, sorry, I meant oil, not coolant. I wrote that post on my tiny mobile with no glasses. 👓

Hi, I know there's been a few posts of coolant leaking into the spark plugs but not oil, maybe try nipping up the rocker cover to seal it? I had a GTIr a few years back and the same thing happened because of the rocker cover. Visually the valves look ok but that won't tell you what condition the valve seals and guides or in. Guides will probably be ok, but seals can wear and harden over time.

Thanks, I'll take a look

Shiny sub-frames back from powder coating.

If my rebuild is done by then, count me in 🙂

My Nissan 350z pistons and pins arrived today and I assembled them into the con rods. The fit between the pin and rod bush is snugger then the fit between the pin and the piston. In fact it's quite a loose fit between the pin and piston where I would've expected an interference fit. This means the piston/pin interface will act as the wear surface, not the pin/rod bushing. Below is a video of my concern, anyone else who bought pistons noticed this?

I'm not knocking the engine. I think the oil starvation issue was exaggerated. I'm rebuilding one now (rod knock issue) and the engine parts are a **** to get hold off. With hindsight I would've got the previous DE or the following HR version where it's much easier to get parts.

If you do consider a 350z avoid the revup as a project.

No offence taken but doing research is what i'm doing. Also, asking advice in the technical section of a forum specializing in 350z is something i should be able to rely on. Thanks for the link BTW, it was interesting to read about piston fuel wash upon first fire up, but IMO removing the injector relay and spark plugs before fire up is what i plan on doing. This allows the engine to gently pre-lube and pressurise while it's turned over a few times, then i'll fire it up The general consensus is to use mineral oil (breaking in oil all the better) so i've bought 5L of Millers running in oil. I'm aiming to get the engine up to temp by fluctuating the rpm between idle and 2,500rpm. Once hot, i'll change the oil and replace with 5W30 semi-synthetic for the first 200 miles of 'sensible' driving. After that it's the normal fully synth oil and normal, fun driving.

Managed to sourced a refurbished revup crankshaft and bearings from Conceptua tuning. The runouts and diameters are spot on which was a relief. So, the rebuild has officially begun. Below is the fitted crank and mains ladder. I should have a set of Wiseco pistons arriving next week, 95.5mm with 11:1CR so fitting them is the next job.

Some people recommend using the OE spec oil to break in an engine (5w30 fully synthetic I believe), while others recommend cheap mineral oil then switching to fully synthetic. Also, some swear by a hard break in, others a soft break in. Im erring towards cheap 5w30 mineral, soft break in, then switching to fully synthetic and driving normally. Anyone recommend different? Also, anyone used a breaking in additive before?

The piston/ring set from Conceptua are for DE (non-revup) engines and he can't confirm if they're compatible for revup. From what i've read on various forums, non-revup (DE) piston/rings will work in a revup block. It's only the original revup pistons that need their own specific OEM revup rings. Is that definitely the case? So, can anyone tell me if these DE pistons/rings will work in my revup block? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112600053511

If you mean conceptua, I've just ordered a refurbished crankshaft/bearings, OEM timing kit, head bolts and gasket kit from them. It all arrived a few days back and looks as described. The crank & bearings are now with Knights engineering, along with the block and con rods for them to check the bearing clearances so I'm hoping to start rebuilding it by the end of the month.

Yesterday I ordered a set of Wiseco forged pistons from Concept performance only to cancel it a few hours later due to a 6 week lead time. I'm only running stock power so forged pistons may be pointless. I've seen these OE spec pistons for half the price which I reckon should be fine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112600053511

They're definitely $1k for a set of 6, not $1k for a single piston, that would be crazy price.

I can't believe the price of those, $150 for a set of 6, that can't be right. Has anyone bought these before?

£6k is a lot as they're forged. It appears they may supply non forged at a much cheaper £1k. https://www.wiseco.com/product/auto/pistons/professional-nissan-vq35de-piston-set-95-50-mm-bore-2/ Is anyone aware of other alternatives?

Are these the Wiseco pistons you're thinking of? https://www.z1motorsports.com/pistons-and-rods-and-crankshaft/wiseco/wiseco-vq35de-forged-pistons-p-1985.html

After ordering the rings from Amayama, they've told me there's none at their supplier so that's me totally stuffed. Can anyone tell me what options I have? -Are there any rings at all that fit revup pistons? -Are there any piston/ring kits that will work in a revup block?

I've used a basic foxwell nt200 for years and it's been fine. Does everything I need, reads codes, shows live data etc

Thanks Luigi, the Z1 link is for non revup and when I spoke to them yesterday they had none at all. However the Amayama link is helpful and they appear to have revup rings, thanks 👍

Must obviously be in excellent condition from a low mileage car. Thanks, Neil

I'd love to use OEM piston rings but for the revup engine they're no longer available, anywhere. They were discontinued by Nissan years ago and I can't even find aftermarket ones anywhere, including US suppliers. IS that what everyone doing a revup rebuild does? Fit new pistons?

Seriously, can no one recommend piston rings for a revup? ☹️

Does everyone here order OEM engine parts, no matter what the cost or happy with quality aftermarket stuff? By aftermarket i'm talking reputable companies not dubious Ebay shops! For example; Timing chain kits range from ~£220 (FAI), to £600 (OEM) with lot's in-between. Engine rebuild kits range from ~£300 (Victor Reinz) to £430 (OEM) Head bolts range from £96 to £184 I've used FAI & Victor Reinz stuff before without any issues and I'm not upping the power, so why pay almost double for something that would make no difference? I'm sure there'll be scare stories of not ordering OEM, but head bolts for example are stated 'OEM spec' but not OEM itself so what's the point anyway, if it's not really OEM, just the same spec as OEM. Might as well as be honest and just state 'after market' I've been meaning to order stuff for weeks and haven't got the foggiest what or where to order. Any recommendations? Thanks, Neil