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msitpro

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Posts posted by msitpro

  1. On 29/07/2019 at 06:51, Jack94 said:

    Gotta be worth a go grinding the heatshields off to see if that cures your issue. If it doesn't then sounds like the perfect opportunity to upgrade to some high flow cats :teeth:

    I've got torqen ones (£419) and can't fault them.

    Ever had these through an MOT? What were the CO and HC figures? What CPI/CPSI rating are those Torqen cats?

  2. On 05/05/2019 at 20:40, longsh07 said:

    Depends on the car somewhat too. My 05 DE won't pass with HFCs, even when they are red hot. Tried both brand new Berks and second hand Cobras but no luck. My mechanic (Japex) said they've seen it before where some cars just won't get through with them and some will scrape through. 

    Tuned, or stock ECU?

  3. On 04/05/2019 at 21:47, MDMetal said:

    My regular garage told me mine just scraped by this year they get it roasting hot. The HFCS are 7 years old now so not sure if that's the issue or perhaps some oil in the exhaust? So might well be in a similar position soon :(

    Do you have any ECU tuning, or stock tune?

  4. 6 hours ago, ILUVUNICORNS said:

    I’m now worried my new system will be  too loud?

     

    i have just got a Cobra Cat Back Exhaust

    Decats, Stillen Gen 3 CAI with an UpRev. 

     

     

    What diameter is the Cobra system and what sort of mufflers/resonators has it got? Dual exit with muffler on both branches?

  5. On 06/08/2019 at 11:48, davey_83 said:

    Recently fitted the ART and XYZ pipes and im chuffed with the new set up and noise. Engine revs out easier with noticeably stronger pick up, no rasp or drone at motorways speeds either thankfully.

     

    Hopefully the eml stays away :yuck:

     

     

    Was it you bought them off me?

    Lovely job on the heat wrap... and painted helmholtz resonators?

    Don't suppose you've had a HC count check on a emissions tester? I think that single cat is only 200CPSI?

     

    I've got new custom made sports cats which are 200CPSI, same as BERKs I believe. EML comes on currently but I have some 45 degree spacers to add. The rest of my custom 3" post-Y system with 2 resonators then makes it insanely loud at low throttle loads in traffic... :blush: Might take it back to get another large res. added straight after the Y section. (it's single all the way to tip)

  6. On 05/08/2019 at 21:21, omegacloud said:

    I feel sometimes less is more

     

    How dare you put a non OEM spoiler on it! :lol:

     

    OK, just noticed the skirt extensions and clear reflectors too... XD

     

    IMO - Get yourself some spacers and some springs similar to the Nismo S-tune ones (progressive, 0.6" drop) to complete the OEM+ look and feel..... then poly bushes, adjustable camber arms, thicker ARBs, adjustable end links, adjustable tie rod ends...... haha it escalates.

    • Haha 1
  7. I was wondering if anybody knows of an aftermarket flat undertray available to buy?

     

    I have a Zspeed but it hangs ridiculously low under the sump (designed for huge capacity sump) and hits speed bumps and bumps in the road well before the lip of my Nismo v2 bumper do, which clears everything with current ride height (almost stock)

     

    If there aren't any then I may need to manufacture one...

  8. Considering the huge restriction and gain on these engines has been proved to be the intake side (hence why the HR with dual TBs and better plenum makes so much more power, higher in the rev range and responds even better to basic breathing mods like decat, exhaust, intake)

     

    ...why not put the money into a ITB setup with standalone ECU instead? I would think there's at least one well know tuner in the UK that's done a ITB install with ECU on one of these...

     

    Add the biggest cams you can with stock internals and you would be looking at between 315-340 whp depending on other mods.

     

    Heck, Sasha Anis made 326 whp with an open DE plenum and custom 300° cams on stock DE internals: http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/modp-1303-nissan-350z-vq35de-engine-build

     

    ...before it got sick with built engine and ITBs doing 370+ whp.

  9. Yes, of course damper will make a difference. Damping/comfort is actually fine on any surface with these... So I wonder if there is any difference than just the spring between the BC models. I think it's just the hardness of the springs throwing me into the air all the time! :lol:

     

    I'm currently on Advan V105 245/40/18 front on 9.5J and Bridgestone RE050 275/40/18 dried up heaps of poo on 10.5J on the back... I'll wait to see what grip is like after the new springs and change tyres after if needed. Plenty of tread on the Bridgestones but think they've gone off. Bought second hand last year just to get a setup that didn't trigger TC at 15mph+ like the old 245/45/18 & 275/35/18 combo the past owner of these wheels had!

     

    To be honest I like liveliness in the rear end to allow you to almost point the chassis in the right direction, by shifting the balance through braking and throttle.... But it's silly atm :lol: I can always adjust toe, camber, ARBs etc to dial out or dial in any over or understeer. :)

     

    I thought I'd go 8K to make a big difference from 14K fronts because it's the front that currently throws itself all over the place over bumpy roads (tyres @ 26psi front atm). I didn't think 10K would be low enough to make a big enough difference.

  10. Not sure it's listed anywhere in your thread...

     

    Those are 'true' coil rear coilovers...

     

    Whatspring rates are the springs front and back and how does it ride on a very bumpy road?

     

    Pretty sure I made a massive mistake going for the track focused BCs last year @ 14k/12kg/mm rates :lol:

     

    I found someone online comparing suspension kits for the Z that reckoned that the change of position of the spring onto the turret rather than spring bucket increases the spring stiffness at the rear by about 2.25x ... It would explain the resonance through the cabin, very harsh ride, lack of grip and massive oversteer I have, being equivalent to 26k rear in the standard position :lol:

     

    I've got my rear tyres down at 23psi atm to cope a bit better until I get replacement springs to go in the coils. Going for 8k/6k swifts. I have whiteline adjustable ARBs and links front and back, full complement of Voodoo13 rear arms, poly bushes all round, Voodoo13 adjustable tie rod ends, Driftworks upper front arms etc... And same 40 profile tyres as you. So I suspect we're in a similar position as far as handling goes. (Or will be)

  11. 3 hours ago, blaqkaudio said:

    It's running a very safe 355whp

    On high boost map when needed its running 375whp 

     

    For me the lag is not 'noticeable'. In standard guise the Zed doesn't lack in low down get up and go, once the boost comes in you're away. Plus due to the extreme torque a turbo can put on these engines suddenly it's been tuned to be as progressive as possible

     

    So between 410-430 ATF with 15% drivetrain loss.

     

    What's 'safe boost' and 'high boost' levels? 7psi and 10psi? 

     

    Do you have a dyno graph so I can see when the turbo is spooling etc? How much is the rear mount turbo kit and where's it available from?

     

    What do you do with Cats etc? Hmm.... It takes a feed straight from a stock exhaust pipe post-cats? Though I suppose it would be far better to go decat, bungs/signal generators. Then some cats post-turbo...

     

    I guess for your level of power you don't need a modified MAF?

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