Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Osakakev

  1. Hi, I bought this code reader for my 2006 JDM import; ANCEL JP700 JOBD OBD2 Japanese Car Scanner, JDM Automotive Code Reader Check Engine Light OBDII Diagnostic Scan Tool for Toyota Nissan Honda Mazda Subaru Vehicle Diagnosis On JOBD I get a fault code U1001 Can Comm Circuit but when I use the JOBD option it says no fault codes… I don’t have issues (other than faulty oil pressure gauge/wiring) Any ideas why it’s only showing up on one option and what is it? Cheers
  2. Hi, Can anyone recommend a garage in the North West that knows their way around a 350? I believe TDI has closed permanently Cheers
  3. I know the nismo opens earlier so thought newer and bigger radiator might need that. Yes could be but strange it's 6/7 weeks afterwards
  4. Just some more info; Heater is super hot when driving on motorway but gets colder the slower I go and the temps rise. The aftermarket sensor (cut into top radiator hose) does not seem to be giving correct readings anymore. It goes to max 90c but fan is already on which was not the case before. (Used to come on at 95c. The stock temp gauge also goes to the middle when idle for a while but aftermarket is still at 90c (in theory this should be higher as got to 90c regularly before whilst staying at quarter mark). Hope this makes sense lol
  5. Cheers, might give it to a different garage to sort as don't have any axle stands Checked and radiator also full
  6. Thanks Zalas. So either still a small airlock or thermostat. Would upgrading the radiator and leaving stock (assume from 2006) thermostat cause this?
  7. I'm definitely not losing any coolant out of the reservoir tank (i.e. it's not bubbling over) I do loose a bit from the temp adaptor but minimal and probably just needs tightening up (it's new along with the hoses)
  8. It's just under the full mark. It's always moved slightly from hot to cold but nothing big (not sure if this is normal). Sorry not sure what you mean by staying pressurised? Don't know massive amount about cars tbh
  9. Thanks Davey. I'm fairly sure the heaters were working after it was re-bled the first time and the fans were definitely kicking and going off once cooled down as normal so it's only happened in the last day or so (car is used daily). Could a small air lock reappear in the system or not be noticed for a while? One thing I haven't checked is coolant level in radiator but expansion tank is full
  10. Hi, I had a radiator change with new rap cap in early July and it started overheating when I got it back. It turned out to be an airlock which mechanic cleared and all had been fine for nearly 2 months. Today the temps were climbing quicker than usual at idle and heater is luke warm. The max it gets at warn idle is just over 90c and the fan kicks in but then stays on it doesn't reduce. The stock temp gauge goes from its usual quarter mark to half way. Could this be an airlock still or thermostat? Coolant reservoir is full. My amp has recently started blowing fuses, I'm sure it's not related just thought I'd say! Car is 06 Rev Up Thank you
  11. Thanks Docwra. Yeah think the previous owner in Japan went a bit OTT on the mods! Yeah good idea all turn it in occasionally to ensure it works
  12. Thank you all. Once switched on the noise is most audible lying under the rear of car by the ARC Oil cooler so likely it's a pump for this. I assume under normal driving it's not worth switching this on?
  13. Thank you both! Any easy way to tell if fuel pump or diff oil pump? I have no need for either just way to be aware of all mods! Docwra - definitely no TC at the minute haha
  14. Oh good shout never thought of that! It was definitely used for drifting as it amongst others mods; GT Wing, Roll cage, Semi locked Diff, ARC Diff Oil Cooler, Greddy Engine Oil Cooler Any easy way to tell if it's definitely fuel pump? Turn it on and see if it's even more uneconomical? 🤣 It probably wasn't the wisest choice for a daily commuter lol
  15. Oh, could be but the button just lights up and the rear of the car buzzes, nothing on the dash. I do suspect however that the traction control is off and lights are blanked out. When starting the car no traction control lights appear, the abs fuse was snipped (now replaced) and the VDC switch is very loose. Unfortunately I need to take the dash off to get at it as roll cage is in the way!! I expected the yaw sensor to be disconnected but doesn't appear so, from the picture below does it look like it's altered? Thank you very much!
  16. Cheers, I imported the car myself and got the fog light switch installed by knee so definitely not that
  17. Hi, Does anyone know what this on/off button does? It lights up and I hear a buzzing noise to the rear of the car... My car is a manual 2006 JDM rev up. Not sure if standard or a modification Cheers
  18. Hi, When I imported my 350z the traction control and ABS were disabled. I'm trying to re enable these but need a bit of help please!! The ABS fuse was snipped so replaced this thanks to zmanalex. The ABS light has been blanked out on the dash so I assume this is now working. I assumed the gyroscope was disconnected but it appears not... picture attached. The VDS button is also very loose and can be physically pushed in! Is there another way of disconnecting it from behind the dash? Cheers
  19. My car came with the aftermarket sensor and gauge (fresh import) and immediately starting giving low pressure warnings so I replaced with the cheap one as couldn't find an Auto Gauge one to match. Which one did you buy? I want to replace everything (sensor, gauge, wiring etc) Cheers
  20. I had it checked with a mechanical pressure gauge around 1 year ago but can't do any harm to check again. Definitely showing a reading before engine is switched on so don't need to worry about incorrect oil or dodgy filter now! Probably should buy a decent gauge and sensor this time haha
  21. Yes correct sensor for the gauge and it was all wired up correctly by auto electrician and working (with as expected readings). Once it was serviced and new radiator was fitted it was immediately giving higher readings. Not sure what could have caused it but at least it safe to drive Cheers
  22. Thank you. It's now just over 9 bar on key on engine off this morning and not started engine since last engine off reading so not sure how it's increased... Picture attached with engine off It's a fairly new gauge and sensor about 1 year old as I was having issues with low/no readings (albeit it's a cheap one). It was working fine and in spec until I had a new radiator fitted and service (oil changed from 5w30 to 5w40). I'm worried it's a faulty oil filter or something but if it's showing high before engine on then definitely must be the gauge/sensor/wiring? If I cold start the engine it goes way past 10 bar and then will slowly come down to 7 bar ish when fully warmed up and move up/down during acceleration. Cheers
  23. Hi, Should my oil pressure gauge show a reading when the engine is off / key on? I'm trying to figure out if I have a faulty gauge/sensor. It's a non standard and goes from 0 to max bar when key is on and then settles on 6.5 bar. My reading when engine on is very high and I'm hoping it's due to down to the gauge/sensor Cheers
  • Create New...