Osakakev

Thank you both! Any easy way to tell if fuel pump or diff oil pump? I have no need for either just way to be aware of all mods! Docwra - definitely no TC at the minute haha

Oh good shout never thought of that! It was definitely used for drifting as it amongst others mods; GT Wing, Roll cage, Semi locked Diff, ARC Diff Oil Cooler, Greddy Engine Oil Cooler Any easy way to tell if it's definitely fuel pump? Turn it on and see if it's even more uneconomical? 🤣 It probably wasn't the wisest choice for a daily commuter lol

Oh, could be but the button just lights up and the rear of the car buzzes, nothing on the dash. I do suspect however that the traction control is off and lights are blanked out. When starting the car no traction control lights appear, the abs fuse was snipped (now replaced) and the VDC switch is very loose. Unfortunately I need to take the dash off to get at it as roll cage is in the way!! I expected the yaw sensor to be disconnected but doesn't appear so, from the picture below does it look like it's altered? Thank you very much!

Cheers, I imported the car myself and got the fog light switch installed by knee so definitely not that

Hi, Does anyone know what this on/off button does? It lights up and I hear a buzzing noise to the rear of the car... My car is a manual 2006 JDM rev up. Not sure if standard or a modification Cheers

Hi, When I imported my 350z the traction control and ABS were disabled. I'm trying to re enable these but need a bit of help please!! The ABS fuse was snipped so replaced this thanks to zmanalex. The ABS light has been blanked out on the dash so I assume this is now working. I assumed the gyroscope was disconnected but it appears not... picture attached. The VDS button is also very loose and can be physically pushed in! Is there another way of disconnecting it from behind the dash? Cheers

Great thank you!!

My car came with the aftermarket sensor and gauge (fresh import) and immediately starting giving low pressure warnings so I replaced with the cheap one as couldn't find an Auto Gauge one to match. Which one did you buy? I want to replace everything (sensor, gauge, wiring etc) Cheers

I had it checked with a mechanical pressure gauge around 1 year ago but can't do any harm to check again. Definitely showing a reading before engine is switched on so don't need to worry about incorrect oil or dodgy filter now! Probably should buy a decent gauge and sensor this time haha

Yes correct sensor for the gauge and it was all wired up correctly by auto electrician and working (with as expected readings). Once it was serviced and new radiator was fitted it was immediately giving higher readings. Not sure what could have caused it but at least it safe to drive Cheers

Thank you. It's now just over 9 bar on key on engine off this morning and not started engine since last engine off reading so not sure how it's increased... Picture attached with engine off It's a fairly new gauge and sensor about 1 year old as I was having issues with low/no readings (albeit it's a cheap one). It was working fine and in spec until I had a new radiator fitted and service (oil changed from 5w30 to 5w40). I'm worried it's a faulty oil filter or something but if it's showing high before engine on then definitely must be the gauge/sensor/wiring? If I cold start the engine it goes way past 10 bar and then will slowly come down to 7 bar ish when fully warmed up and move up/down during acceleration. Cheers

Hi, Should my oil pressure gauge show a reading when the engine is off / key on? I'm trying to figure out if I have a faulty gauge/sensor. It's a non standard and goes from 0 to max bar when key is on and then settles on 6.5 bar. My reading when engine on is very high and I'm hoping it's due to down to the gauge/sensor Cheers

Ah ok thank you

Thank you. The problem is I don't know and every place I ask don't have a clue so I thought analysing the oil would solve the problem lol Going in the assumption the previous owner in Japan knew would 75w80 be a bad choice or better stick to 75w90? The usage of the previous owner was not likely to be commuting like me (probably street drifting) so maybe that influenced decision on oil viscosity

Thank you both. I don't mind what goes in as long as it's not going to damage the diff. I was going to use 350z recommend 75w90 but hesitated as diff was non standard

Hi, My car was imported with a non standard LSD. It's a two (maybe 3) way locking one for drifting but I use it for normal road use. As only the internals were changed no one could tell me exactly what make it was and therefore what oil I should use. I decided to get the existing oil analysed so I would know for sure. Got the results today and the said it's 75w80 but I should use 75w90.... Opie oils say the same as 75w80 is too thin. Diff is connected to ARC oil cooler if that makes a difference Just after some advice, I hoped the analysis would get the doubt out of my mind with what to use Cheers

Thanks Alex

Thanks Alex Whilst I'm here I wanted to also change the upper radiator hose (it's cut for coolant sensor) and the one I supplied (Mishimoto) is bent and it needs to be straight in order to cut. Do you have a replacement (blue to match if possible)?

Thanks Alex. Any tips for me to pass on would be appreciated

Mechanic fitted it and he says he did and doesn't think it's an airlock... Will mention the bleed at the back of engine just in case he missed that

I should add the fan is coming on and it was fine on the motorway only normal roads

Hi, I had a slight radiatior leak for a while but absolutely no overheating issues and eventually replaced radiator with a Koyo one (along with some new hoses and Koyo Radiator cap). It's now overheating, my aftermarket water temp went just over 100 and warning light come on. The normal one went much higher. I let the car cool down and got it back to home. The header tank is full as is the radiator. Going to get it back in with mechanic but he said it doesn't sound like an air lock. Any ideas what it could be? I hope I haven't done any damage to it! Cheers

Thank you. I'm based in the North West. It's definitely leaking from the sensor adaptor/top radiator hose as caught it but seems to be random. Yeah was gonna replace the rad cap as well to be safe. Whilst putting the car into the garage it gets up to 90c pretty quick and the fan kicks in, is that normal?

Thanks Jack I suspected it was but at least I have confirmation now. That's my plan too, I currently has Sfs hoses but can't seem to find a top radiator one only so will just replace them all

Hi, I've been slowly loosing coolant and found a leak from the temperature sensor adaptor so going to replace that along with the hose What worries me is there is also a lot of dried coolant on top of the radiator which can't be from the temperature sensor adaptor/hose. Does this mean I have a leak from the radiator as well? Car has a lot of mods but it's the original I think. It's a pain to get my car in with the mechanic I trust and want to sort it in one swoop but on the other hand not waste money! Cheers