Kryptek49

Nope, haven't even tried to get a quote yet as the rust hasn't quite come round the edge + I can't afford bodywork repairs right now.

Have a search on the forum though as loads of people have had it done.

4 hours ago, davidv10 said:

We are looking to try and do a Norwich meet (possibly next Sunday) if anyone is interested. Its in the last few comments of this thread:

 Sounds good I'm in!

@Scarabrae?

An active sub is basically just a sub with an amp stuck to the side, so it requires all the same cables as a regular amp.

RCA's, Power, Ground & Remote.

A couple of your bad points such as the rattle & cracked windscreen could be fixed quite cheaply.  Have you considered getting this done?

You may also want to put the stock cats back on and sell the decats separately.  Potential buyers may not be a big fan of MOT fails.

Don't worry this was my first proper install as well.  Where are you based? If you're local to me I might be able to help.

Running an active sub is not a problem at all, it's definitely the easier way of doing it.  I bought a pre-made sub box that fits in the existing sub location from a member on here, I'm not happy with how the sub sounds though so will need to pull everything out and check it all over again.

I'm using a 4 channel amp currently.  2 channels for the front 2 speakers, and bridging the other 2 for the sub-woofer.  Most people don't bother with rear speakers in these cars and just use a set of components up front (speaker + separate tweeter).  

If you were to run front & rear + an active sub, you would only need a 4 channel amp.  I like Ben's idea of installing it inside the drivers seat cubby so you don't lose any storage.

5 hours ago, michaelgordon said:

cheers guys, really helpful.  I was just going to run new cable through the door grommet, dont want to be doing any drilling!

 

For the sub power, can i splice into the amp power cable so only have one cable going to battery?  Speaking of this is there a grommet in the firewall or by the battery to get into the car itself?

Are you planning on running an active sub then and the amp just for the front and rear speakers? If not, then the sub is just powered by your amp speaker wires.  

If you are, then I wouldn't splice but would instead buy some kind of splitter that does the job for you.

As Ben said, routing through the firewall is very easy.  I've done it on a couple of other cars which were an absolute nightmare, the Zed is as easy as it gets.

That's a great deal, I'm surprised you haven't had any interest.  I paid over a grand more last year for an HR with 94k and worse specs (standard suspension, stock clutch etc.) 

I would have definitely have taken this off you last year if it had been available. Hope you find someone interested soon.

Facelifted version is pretty much the same.  

Pull out gear shift bit, remove the 2 uncovered screws, remove 4 screws where the heater controls are bolted in, remove 2 screws underneath the plastic clips in the cubby, pull out at the top and remove the electrics plug at the top, job done.

I've installed a full system in my car a few months ago so may be able to help.

Firstly wiring - I'd recommend using at least 16-guage.  I used this Amazon basics stuff which does a good job.  You'll also need an amp wiring kit which you can pick up from Halfords.

I've installed my amp in the glove box behind the passenger seat.  You'll have to pull out all of the interior trim but you can then run new speaker wires fairly easily.

You might struggle with running new speaker wires to the doors, as you've got to drill through the molex connectors on both sides.  It's actually not that bad but the first time you drill into it is quite worrying.  

You'll also need speaker spacers as most new speakers won't clear the front windows.  I made mine up out of MDF using one of the old speakers as a template.  You have to destroy the speaker to make it usable as a template, I've still got my old template if you want it for free.

The cables should be fine if you wrap them up well in electrical tape, but I'd avoid attaching the live to the battery until you actually intend to attach it to your amp.

Yes the reverse camera can be run of the rear buzzer.

If you need any help give me a shout.

Have you tried disconnecting one side then to see how it behaves? 

I'm no LED expert but just had a quick look into it for you - there seem to be 2 options

1 - Cheap LED's.  I replaced my sidelights a while ago with cheap ebay LED's, and after a week they were flickering on and off constantly, or completely dead.  I bought a set of Osram's LED's at about £10 each and they've been perfect since. I went through about 10 ebay LED's before giving up on the cheap stuff.

2 - To much voltage to the LED's,  you may need to install load resistors: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Install-Load-Resistors-for-LED-Turn-Signal-/

Although load resistors are normally require when the LED's are constantly flashing on & off, I haven't heard of flashing off every 30 seconds.

4 hours ago, davey_83 said:

I'd take off the 90° bends from the rear silencer and tips. Bend the hanger to try and lever the rear silencer, then fit the pipes and tips to suit. If the rear section sat level before it's strange that the additions have upset it but you don't have much choice.

I've got no idea if it sat level before as I bought the car with this exhaust set up.  Thanks for the help I'll give that a go tomorrow and see how it goes.

1 hour ago, Daisyduke said:

You haven't got odd size exhaust hangers (rubber ones) or knackered ones have you? 

Does the exhaust have the hanger in the centre section as that would pull it that way.

The rubber exhaust mounts all looked the same.  I'm going to jack it up again tomorrow and see if I can spot anything odd, and then try bend the hangers

5 hours ago, davey_83 said:

Could try bending the hanger on the drivers. What bits of the rear silencer can come off? 

The tips and the pipes from the back box  are both separate - so i can loosen the clamps and adjust those.  I did that yesterday and although its better it's still not right.

I hadn't thought of bending the metal hanger - may give that a go

I've got an 08HR with a Cobra back box, Miltek Y pipe and Torqen HFC. 

The back box at the rear doesn't look level, and because of this the exhaust tips don't have quite the same angle either. It's only minor but it bugs me slightly and I can't see a way to fix it. 

All the hangers are in place, and seem to be in good condition. 

Here's a photo of mine I took yesterday: 

And here's a photo I found online of the same cobra exhaust: 

Anyone got any ideas on how to sort this? Based on that second picture it looks like my driver's side is too high up, and passenger side is normal height.

Thank you

2 hours ago, Rikz2004 said:

If you don't want to remove the dash (you don't have to if you're replacing with an aftermarket one of the same size as the current) you should be able to remove the alpine as follows:

 

- remove the faceplate and faceplate surround (the surround can usually just be pulled off by pushing the bottom side of it downwards or the top side of it upwards).

- on each side of the head unit there will be a small metal circular bit with an indentation in the middle. Using a screwdriver you push this either upwards or downwards (can't remember which it is but it has a spring locking it in place so will be obvious once you try to move it!).

- the stereo should now be released and you can pull it out.

 

Hope that helps!

Rik

I don't think this will work.  In your average car with a double din, then yes you get removal keys which let you pull the stereo out from the front with no hassle.

One our Zeds, the fascia plate is mounted from the inside (see here: https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=images&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwi1tebxzJ7jAhVEYVAKHZgXAgkQjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fincartec.co.uk%2Fproduct%2FNissan-350Z-Radio-Facia-Double-Din&psig=AOvVaw3V2WCjvxjBfa345vJPPwI6&ust=1562444342673054 )

This means that there's no option to remove the faceplate surround to use the keys.

Plus no one uses a cage on these cars (someone correct me if I'm wrong) and you're meant to screw the head unit into the existing metal brackets.

Looks really good - I need to get my windows tinted too.

Are the front windows legal though? They don't look it.

Pretty sure it's just plug and play? 

I think this guy talks about it in his video: 

You removing it from a 350z?

If so, it's probably screwed in place to the oem metal brackets behind the dash, so no cage and no keys needed

I'm in Kings Lynn not too far away, so would be up for this - pretty flexible on when & where so once you've agreed on something I'll put my name down. 

Removing the seats is easy enough - remove negative battery terminal, unplug 3/4 connectors under seat + 4 bolts holding the seat down.  If you get an airbag warning light it's a pretty easy reset as well.

Can't advise on the pricing at all, but you can find used front seats on ebay in the £2-300 range (for the pair) that are in pretty good condition.  Obviously they'll be used and won't be perfect, but could be worth looking into if it's less than half the price?

On 13/06/2019 at 08:50, ZMANALEX said:

Just open the clamp up slightly and it will drop to the bottom of the terminal.

Thanks Alex, pretty simple really wasn't it!  Took the terminal off properly yesterday, stretched it out and it all fits perfectly now.  

10 hours ago, RobPhoboS said:

Strangely enough I have the same weird problem occur on my negative terminal! 

I just reseated it, and put my thumb on the back of the bolt the nut is tightening against. And just tighten it up gently with a proper 6 point fitting spanner. Seemed to have helped for now. 

 

I'll give this a go, the main issue is just getting it seated in the first place though! I've even tried a new gold plated battery terminal I had lying around, and that didn't fit properly either.

9 hours ago, davey_83 said:

I had the same issue a few years back after Kwik Fit replaced my battery under warranty via the supplying garage. The negative terminal would work loose and the car would randomly loose power. I replaced the nut and bolt on the lead and it's allowed for a touch more clamping force which has been fine ever since.

Weird - my negative battery terminal was also loose! Every time i clamped it down it would just slide right off.  Turns out there was some oil on the connection which wouldn't allow it to grip correctly, I've cleaned it all up and it seems to be fine now, but I'm still not happy with either to be honest.  I'll try a new bolt later

I replaced my battery not to long ago with a Varta D47, and now the positive terminal doesn't seem to fit properly.  It used to be fully seated, but now the top part of the clamp is not even on the terminal.
 

I've tried expanding the clamp with a set of pliers, and tapping it on gently with a rubber mallet but none of this helps.

On Tayna's website it shows the D47 terminals are standard fitment - has anyone else experienced this issue? Should I just be more forceful to get it to seat correctly?

Thanks

FYI my HR also has a noisy transmission - so please don't upgrade expecting the noise to be improved!