SeeNoWeevil

Just tried faffing around with it again and while it connected a few times, I couldn't get it to connect reliably. Tried everything including choosing 'not a phone' option but nah. I raised a report with OnePlus for now.

On 26/02/2020 at 21:13, Umster said:

Yes! I thought it was just me. I've re-paired my phone as an audio only device. Working in the interim till I figure out a better idea. 

Interesting, I'll try that. Another workaround seems to be to disable and re-able bluetooth in the car's settings while it's trying to connect. Weird considering turning audio off/on again doesn't help.

On 26/02/2020 at 21:37, Rusky said:

my phone is upgraded and all good so far, what phones are you using?

 

OnePlus 6

On 26/02/2020 at 21:40, Rusky said:

have you deleted the car from your device and also the device from the car?  Then completely repair?

Yeah. I even went as far as doing a factory reset after the update to 10.

Anyone else having difficulty connecting bluetooth audio to their zed since getting the Android 10 update? It repeatedly connects/disconnects since the update. Tried a full factory reset on the phone, removing and re-adding the device. No joy. Massive pain.

Mine is making the exact same noise under low speed acceleration/deceleration as my 350 did Is the fix the same? 

On 15/04/2019 at 17:47, StormWhite said:

I don't know what they quoted for parts and labour but would you be willing to fit it yourself? You would need two shear bolts and a steering lock.

 

There is currently a new steering lock on Ebay for £350

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the 'B' revision the old, faulty one - 'D' being the latest and more reliable. Nissan quoted £670 fitted. The new motor sounds quite different when it activates, so either it's a newer revision or the old one was really gummed up.

Nissan confirm it needs a new lock. Fack sake.

I created a topic with some tips on swapping the badges over, some might find it useful.

1 minute ago, Pilotbob said:

Definitely have a steering lock. Mine has just simply stopped locking so in effect the reverse and car is not stranded but lock does not initiate when ignition turned off. 

Just checked, it's also unlocked with the ignition off. Could it be a dead fuse?

On a more positive note, on researching this issue it made me smile to see people refer to the key fob slot as a 'fobgina' 

Yeah, maybe the issue lies elsewhere. These were the codes when I initially checked. I cleared them and the ones in the original post were what returned.

Wait.. does the '14 even have a steering lock?? I've never paid attention to it. I can't find any evidence of such late models having this issue. All I can find is numerous people saying this was 'solved' 2013 onwards or that these models don't even have the lock. Seems like these people are just guessing. Confusing. Maybe it's something unrelated entirely.

Key light on. Any advice? It'll be going into Nissan tomorrow. I thought this was a ~'09 issue?? I thought this was because my fob went through the wash lat week (doh) but the spare is the same. 

4 minutes ago, nissanjuke said:

USE MAXTON PRODUCTS 

They don't do a lip for MY13+

I thought I'd give some tips after swapping out the front and rear badges on my Zed as it's a bit of a pain in the arse tbh.

I initially tried heat (gf waggling a hairdryer) and dental floss. Dental floss is not strong enough and will snap, fishing line is better but can also snap if pulled against the sharp edges of the badge. With any type of line, be very careful about pulling it out wide against the sharp edge of the recess as it can nick the paint where it's thin. The other problem is that the badges (at least the rear one) have plastic locating lugs which will stop you pulling the line more than a 3rd of the way across. What I suggest is making a fishing line garot (!) around 8" long that's 3-4 strands thick (I looped it through the metal clips of clothes pegs to make a handle). Use your fingernails to push the line into the gap around the side of the Nissan portion of the badge (tricky) and pull slowly sideways as the glue begins to go soft (1 person with the heat, another pulling is ideal). When it won't pull through any further and gets stuck on the lug, pull the line towards you and use it to lever the badge away slowly. Try and get your fingernails or a piece of card under the opposite end of the Nissan portion of the badge to prevent it digging into the paintwork as you lever it away. Once it's off, roll the remnants of the sticky pad away with your fingers. Tar/bug remover was good on the tricky bits here, but it was pretty easy to get off. Give it a good clean before you apply the new badge. The 370Z badge comes off very easy by just pulling straight through, there are no lugs.

Applying new badges can be quite tricky on the front as there are no locating lugs to get it perfectly level with the recess and you won't be able to remove it after. On reflection I'd probably stick some tape to the new badge either side so I could place it down without fingers blocking my view. I reckon if it was slightly off, you could heat it up again and reposition it slightly with some force.

Why do you hate us?

Lots of love

MY13 owners

Why are aftermarket lips for the facelift so rare?

@Tarmac@TarmacSportz pls

Done. They look great.

(stripe added in the second pic)

I've just taken delivery of a set of the Maxton ones but I'm in 2 minds whether to fit them or not. The thought of screwing self-tappers into the OEM skirts is putting me right off. Do they extend through the plastic skirts and screw into the metalwork? I wanted to keep any mods potentially reversible. What's the best kind of adhesive to use, 3M tape or adhesive? Does the car need to be jacked or is it possible to screw in the hex-headed self-tappers with a a ratchet/stubby hex screwdriver?

15 minutes ago, Ekona said:

Good question. In theory I guess it could, but I’d expect it to affect both sensors not just one. I’d prob change the MAF first and see what happens from there, make sure you get a genuine OEM and not a cheaper one, it may appear to work well at first but ultimately it’ll likely end up causing you more grief. 

The maf is considerably the more expensive of the two, right?

16 minutes ago, Ekona said:

They may well need changing, and a precat O2 is much more important than a postcat one, as that’s exactly what both of those codes are indicating. 

 

How is the battery, did you get it changed?

Battery was changed. I'm fairly sure it needed doing anyway. Would a bad maf not have a knock on effect on the O2 sensor? 

Thanks

Ok, limp mode returned and threw a CEL this time. 

Nissan are telling me it needs a heated oxygen sensor (I presume this is the one after the cat) AND a maf at a cost of £850. Why would both of these have gone at the same time? Isn't sensor 1 *pre* cat?? It sounds like they're just guessing to me. Any thoughts?

Thanks guys. Getting it changed.

Braked hard and then stalled when pulling away. The restart was longer than usual, more spins of the starter and a 'weak' start. This seemed to put the car in limp with no power and a high idle. Curiously no check engine light though. Pulled over when I could, restarted, still in limp. Pulled over again shortly after, left the car off for a few mins and it started up as normal. Idle back to normal and all power back. Any idea what's going on? I did notice a bit of a weak start after stalling this previous week actually.

On 17/05/2018 at 12:39, fergie1471 said:

have you got anymore pics? from further back?

On 11/05/2018 at 09:45, ZeeZee370 said:

Looks great and it's exactly what I'm wanting to do on my Roadster to reduce some of the visual bulk of that big a#s.  Can I ask how much it cost?

£120. It's 3M Matt Black if you're interested in the exact wrap. Might be worth supplying the person doing it with some steps off the net for removing the fog light.

REALLY disliked the body coloured rear diffuser (Black on 2018 models) so got it wrapped in matt black. Looks so much better.

My white Zed with a gloss black roof wrap.