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Alex350z

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Everything posted by Alex350z

  1. Probably not bleeding it properly they can be a PITA. Power bleeders do not work well on them and if all the fluid ran out during the change they can be stubborn to get going again. Two tips for you to try - 1. Using the traditional one in the car one underneath use a small pry bar or large screwdriver to hold the clutch lever forwards loosen the bleed nipple get your mate to slowly press the clutch tighten the nipple get him to release the clutch (usually need a bit of wire under the pedal to pull it up) Repeat a good few times DO NOT LET THE FLUID RUN OUT IN THE RESERVOIR! Try the clutch again. 2. If you have some pressure in the pedal wedge the pedal hard down (bit of wood and electric seats help here) leave over night - try bleeding again in the morning and see if it improves. Good Luck I dont think the fluid ever ran out. Ill have a go! Cheers
  2. Fluid is gettint to the banjo bolt which must mean the pin is the wrong way round?
  3. Another issue... Now its all fitted the clutch pedal wont go stiff, for some reason it seems like fluid isnt getting to the slave?
  4. Quick question, does it matter about the difference in size? Im pretty sure it goes that way around...
  5. How does it connect the non bleed end? Is it a nut on top of the bracket which is out of sight?
  6. Ive done the bleeding part and swapped the fluid before. Its just i read somewhere about disconnecting the clutch pedal inside the car which i couldnt understand? If its just a case of swapping them over, thats fine. Cheers
  7. Looking to change my slave cylinder and clutch line on an 05 DE. Does anyone have a simple step by step procedure? Ive looked but cant find anything. Do you need to disconnect the clutch pedal? Cheers
  8. Im tidying up my engine bay a bit but im unsure what colour it is, the outside is WV2 which i believe is gunmetal grey? Ive had a search but cant seem to find the name. This is the bit im on about... Cheers
  9. Seems like a lot of hassle! Buy them off me for £340 and take the tyres off and make a tenner;)
  10. You can see it in the pictures, i think theyve tried to smooth it out but not 100% Aye they look tidy but it's a 10 yard job. Good on your for taking criticism on board though......normally toys would be hurled all over the place by now. Ah well, if im wrong theres no point arguing. I didnt have a clue what they were worth before looking.
  11. Ive been looking around and the average seems to be 250-350. When i looked before i saw a set going for £450 and a set at 400. Both must have been overpriced!
  12. You can see it in the pictures, i think theyve tried to smooth it out but not 100%
  13. Ive priced them high because of the condition, ive seen standard ones go for £450 so i dont think they are overpriced. Maybe at the top end of the scale though. As i said, make me an offer
  14. I am!! He said it was pretty good. HFC's next!
  15. Model: 2005 DE 100k miles Mods: Cobra backbox and resonated centre pipe (standard cats), horshams plenum spacer, horshams grounding kit, HKS panel filter and an uprev remap. Dyno: Dyno dynamics (horsham developments) BHP: 304.5 HP at the fly and 250.9 at the wheels Torque: 285 ftlb
  16. Selling my standard wheels as i now have rays fitted. Excellent condition as seen in pictures, few marks inside wheel nut holes which i have touched in and cant be seen when fitted to car. Finished in black and look excellent. All 4 have vredestein ultrac sessanta tyres which are meant to be on par with goodyear eagle f1's. Rears have around 5mm tread and fronts have around 5mm. No cracks in the tyres, they are in very good condition! £300 collected Cheers
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