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oVerboost

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Posts posted by oVerboost

  1. The earlier 350's have better low down and mid range torque, the later ones and the 370's should have a more balanced and smoother torque curve, are you sure yours is running as it should? Did the Celica have any variable valve timing or come onto cam higher in the rev range maybe? Getting any car remapped would be beneficial over a factory map IF done by a decent tuner... ;)

  2. does it rub at all?

     

    What the final offset now +7

     

    and what tyre sizes is on there

     

    No rubbing at all on apex lowering springs, full lock is fine too. Tyre size is 245/35/18

     

    Offset now is ET12 with 3mm spacer = ET9 :)

    • Like 1
  3. I don't have any others I'm afraid although on my car thread there's more, I need to take some as my rear overfenders are fitted now :)

     

    They are anthracite centres & polished lips. Hope yours isn't a silver zed lol.

     

    No mines black

     

    lol, thats alright then... My car doesn't want a twin :p

    • Like 1
  4. Also, I know of genuine people (not being sexist here) but they are girls who have bought cars because they're nice looking, and don't even realise they are modified. Unless the seller tells them or a friend like I did to them, they wouldn't have a clue! :/ I think it's about time that people were insured, not the vehicles themselves (like in the US).

     

    Also, dealers sometimes do their own options, I work for Nissan in a Plymouth and know for a fact they have a special deal with wolfrace wheels and fit these to cars where as 99.9% of new owners wouldn't have declared these... The buyer as far as they are concerned just presume it's a standard upgrade if they aren't clued up.

  5. I run 9.5 fronts et12 with a 3mm spacer so et9 really, they do poke out the arch slightly (wheel not tyre) but that's the look I wanted, an extra 9mm should still look okay as long as they fit with the spacers. Also I'd check you have enough thread with the 5mm spacer you were considering as that may be your only issue, but should in theory be okay,

  6. Never use a blade to dry a car, why people use a hard (compared to a chamois) object to dry a car I'll never know, I've spent countless hours rectifying drying blade "scratches"! I wouldn't normally recommend using it but try some colour magic polish on it, it may help if not a machine polish on top should get most of it out, shouldn't be too deep as could only have been grit or light dirt.

  7. I don't have any others I'm afraid although on my car thread there's more, I need to take some as my rear overfenders are fitted now :)

     

    They are anthracite centres & polished lips. Hope yours isn't a silver zed lol.

  8. Clay bar will get it off once it's warmed up with warm water... ;) failing that, some autoglym tar & glue remover is safe on paintwork but may break down whatever it is.

  9. It may be grease, I get that a lot in work I do (I'm a detailer), best thing for the exterior is to wash it with warm water and then clay bar it or use some iron-x or fallout remover then re wash and use a clay bar and lube on it. Can you take some pics of it? Engine wise it may not be as accessible so a good de greaser should shift it... :)

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