Spatt

Very VERY small chance i can make it. I'll be just going for the day but haven't put my name down on the main thread yet

OP updated with August date 19th and 20th

that sound cool to everyone?

Lets look at some dates in August then 26th and 27th isn't good for me I'm at Silverstone for the GP

any one got any dates they can / can't do in August?

Matt

On 6/29/2017 at 14:18, TT350 said:

Lol. Never mind mate.

 

Where did you get your Z sorted?

.... just got this.... and yes i've seen myself out haha!

ffs

I like the yellow, i say go for it yo.... because race car and all that.. also looks different from the front with it yellow

Damn it! I cant do the 29th

 

What about the 30th of July? Does Skipton sound ok? I was going to post up in the yorkshire area and hopefully a few of them can meet us as well

 

...... wheres Paddy?

 

I'm easy.

 

 

Don't tell anyone though.

for why dont tell anyone?

I can do 8th and 29th.

 

Avoid 15th as it's the big anniversary bash in Cov. You coming mate?

I'd really love to go but i seriously can't afford the expense. I may just pop down for the day i'm not sure yet

Damn it! I cant do the 29th

What about the 30th of July? Does Skipton sound ok? I was going to post up in the yorkshire area and hopefully a few of them can meet us as well

...... wheres Paddy?

just a thought for now guys how about we push this back until later in July?

Hi Folks.

date changed to 19th of August AM

we'll be meeting at Skipton Morrisons BD23 1RT -  for the usual chat, followed by a small drive up through the dales to Haws for some food

Meeting time is 8:30am

would be good to see some of you again

Any questions at all please drop me a PM

Matt

I would have come over but my car is in and out of the garage at the moment

Feel free to post up in the Northwest section, most people dont mind a drive over if your looking to boost up your numbers. I often have people from Yorkshire way coming on my drives

Hope to get one sorted myself in the not to distant future

Matt

Your flexi are on the way out.

I had the same thing, like a "chuffing" or "rattling" noise from the underside of the car on gentle lift of and engine run down. Dont worry about it for now but start saving for a new y pipe (or replacement flexi's)

I posted on FB yesterday but here's what i know

Yesterday i drove the car for maybe 10 minutes from cold start and noticed the fan had come on (ive never ever heard them before)

The engine water temp gauge went to the top and i stopped the engine

I noticed the following

Engine was very hot

water pipe (the curved on at the top) was under pressure and was harder than normal to squeeze and was hot to touch

top of radiator plastic very hot

water level in bottle had gone up past max

water temp was cool

I unscrewed the water bleed valve at the rear of the engine and water came out under pressure

I managed to limp the car home after waiting for it to cool

This morning, I opened the bleed valve again at the rear (engine off) and it bubbled a bit, i assume air was going into the system as no water was coming out

From my understanding to bleed the system you start the engine, unscrew the bleed screw, wait for water to come out and tighten up? I tried that this morning and nothing came out after a few minutes of running. I checked and my engine temp needle started to move up as the engine warmed, i didn't want to let it go up high so i stopped the engine. I assume my water pump may have gone?

Just wondering if anyone can shed any more light on what I've found.

thanks,

Matt

Rob, a 5W40 will be fine your engine may even benefit from it if your giving it a hammer every now and then

I think we have to be parked by 8:30 though i will let others confirm...

On another note, Given the weather for the last two days looks like it could be another arctic cold show, I think i speak for everyone when i say last year was FREEZING!

On the plus side it should be dry all week

hahaha !!

I will defo need to put something together following japfest this weekend

Be good to catch up with some old friends and meet some new people!

MAtt

any pics, sorry i couldn't make it. the weather was pretty good

The EVO crew were all parked up there last time... seems a good spot to me though i'm running a standard suspension set up

only just booked my hotel... everything has been last minute.... i see all the pics on FB of everyone cleaning their cars and and i've still got a list as long as my arm to do !

Just confirming i booked my hotel !

I'm staying at the Hilton, its right across from the Holiday Inn, managed to get a really good price

Nothing else to do now but make sure the Japfest tickets are printed and pack the swimming shorts! haha!!

Looking forward to drinks at the bar

The garage have the car and have told me there may be a mixture issue which is why my exhausts are so black. I have my doubts about this but dont know enough about it

Having done some more digging online ive found that the consumption of oil is looking more normal, i was under the impression following a rebuild it shouldn't burn but apparently its normal if your using more pressure on the loud pedal

right now i'm having the crank sensor looked at, the oil sender is being replaced to fix the oil pressure gauge (thanks ZmanAlex) so we will see

what time does it start / finish?

Matt

Sounds like everything you had to do you did correctly. Do you know what oil was in the car for the running in though? May be hard to know now it's been changed but all that correct procedure is a bit of a waste if it was on fully sythetic oil as this will stop the small amount of wear required to bed in the piston rings in the honed block.

 

Sadly this is why traders can afford to charge so much for this work! Hope your garage does sort it out for you.

I'll be asking them exactly this when i drop the car off later.... i certainly wasn't aware that particular oils have to be used for bedding in. As you can imagine i dont want to fall out with them over this, i want them to warrant the work.

The fact that my exhausts look black means that its clearly burning it anyway so on that matter alone i'll be having a good chat to them

Hi everyone,

thanks for the comments, some constructive points being raised

so to clarify on my rebuild the following was replaced...

piston rings, all seals, gaskets, bearings, bores honed and a new timing chain kit inc guides etc...

As for the running in, i was told to not labour the engine as this could be worse so he explained that i should use the revs to a point but full throttle should be avoided and dont let the revs come up high, i'm no fool so i extend mechanical sympathy when running the car in and ive just sank a ton of money into this. To clear it up the run in was approx 600 - 700 miles the car was returned to the garage after about a week. the driving was mainly a and b road stop start type of thing, using all the gears and changing revs, what i consider to be a nice potter around enjoying having my car back

after the car was serviced i have covered another 1000 miles i would say maybe 300 of that was "harder" driving, getting closer to the limiter and holding onto gears letting the engine run down but nothing like track work or drag racing just using the engine more

some full throttle acceleration for sure

Since i wrote the op i have started to notice a drop in performance though i dont know if im imagining it.. the car seems to have less torque when pulling in third or 4th compared to before.

Yes the rebuild was done on a budget by a local garage, i couldn't afford the 7K rebuild prices quoted to me by some of the pro traders

There have been other issues with the engine starting, the engine seems to rotate too much on start up but ive been told this is cam or crank sensor issue, the garage will be sorting this while its in

I'm not 100 percent sure on usage, I'm going to drop it and measure the results to be accurate.

I checked the dipstick and it was on full after the oil change and reads half way now after 1000 miles of driving. Some of that driving (nearly half) will have been hard full throttle nearly red line engine very hot

Could be normal then? Just need to monitor it when driving hard? I can live with that if I know it's to be expected

Looking for some advice from the more clued up amongst you. Anyone that does regular track days or hard driving and services the car regularly.

are you burning oil / is it standard to burn oil / how much?

I recently had my engine rebuilt due to an oil burning problem (blue smoke on throttle)

the build was completed around 3 to 4 weeks ago and i think the engine is still using oil... I've been told "engines use oil, get over it" not by the garage but want to know what i'm talking about before i go and take it back

I dont know what oil spec they have used i think its fully synth 5w30 standard stuff

Hope ive not opened a can of worms with this thread

just want some advice

Matt