.:Bullen:.

7 minutes ago, ATTAK Z said:

a bit out on the weight  but otherwise excellent   

That was what we noticed in the edit but thought I’d leave it in for shits & giggles ha 

Hey guys, done a little video with a good mate of mine on the build of my 350 twin turbo.  Give it a look & subscribe to his channel for future updates & more great vids!

Any feedback or comments for either of us also appreciated 

Hi all

Ive got a twin turbo z and I have had the throttle controller for the last few years anyways it’s now decided to pack up & through a fault up, if I unplug it it’s fine.

Anyways my question is it worth replacing it ? It feels slower/less responsive but then I’m not sure if that’s my mind playing tricks or not.  All info I read originally was that it made no actual difference on 0-60 times.

id anyone has an opinion or answer either way be good. Thanks 

Had the old girl cleaned up today with a quick machine polish to get rid of a few swirls 

Not sure if it’s changed much now but a while ago they were looking at replacing the de ecu with a jap spec one which could have multiple maps.  I think mark at abbey was looking into it so that maybe a option I was planing on for when my engine gets forged. 

I also live in norfolk & a fellow de owner, unfortunately the 350z can only be mapped by specialists having the uprev license & software independent little guys can’t touch it! 

I had mine mapped at horsham developments & can highly recommend them! 

4 hours ago, karlh said:

I don't believe the pre-tensioner connector is under the seat.  It connects directly to the seat belt retractor.  I've attached 2 extracts from my service manual.  Key areas are outlined in red.  The Seat Belt Pre-Tensioner Connector.pdf file shows how the body harness connects to the retractor and, on the second page, shows the connector in more detail.  The SRS Schematics.pdf file, fourth page, shows that the connectors are yellow with 2 pins each.

 

Seat Belt Pre-Tensioner Connector.pdf 284.2 kB · 1 download SRS Schematics.pdf 740.05 kB · 1 download

I’ve sorted it now, borrowed a snap on code reader & it flagged up left & right pre tensioners.  Stripped car out and soldered in a couple more resistors & hey presto the lights gone off, now just to see if I can re centre the steering wheel to get rid of the vdc esp lights Ha

8 minutes ago, karlh said:

That's a situation I've never encountered before. A resistor will probably be necessary.  After a little searching online I found a couple of YouTube videos relating to pre-tensioner resistance (links below).  The consensus is 2 to 3 ohms, just like you fitted for your seats.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2oM5mvEytk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2iqMqdbb5U

 

Ahh ok imagined probably would be the case after airbag resistor didn’t do it.  Don’t suppose you know the plug ? From memory theirs 3 plugs under my seat a yellow one (airbag) a small white one with 2 wires and a big fat one ha 

1 minute ago, karlh said:

When you say you don't run them, do you mean you simply don't fasten them, or have you completely removed the factory seat belts?

 

Completely removed factory belts, bases, seatbelts etc no trace of original left just the plugs on the loom that they would have plugged into remain 

45 minutes ago, karlh said:

A long flash (3 seconds on) followed by 3 short (1/2 second) flashes in the diagnosis mode indicates a problem with the left hand seat belt pre-tensioner (per my USA service manual).

 

I don’t run seat belts I’ve got harnesses so could that be why ? Do I need to put resistors in them too ? 

6 hours ago, RobPhoboS said:

Check YouTube as you'll need to pedal dance it to get it to sod off. (I had to, odb scanner couldn't) 

I’ve done the turn key on off scenario 5 times, I also put it into diagnosis mode and it came back with 1 long flash and 3 faster ones if that relates to a code ? 

Im going to pop to my mates garage this evening and hook it up to obd and see if comes up with a different code 

Hi all have fitted bucket seats ages ago and the 2.2ohm resistor in each side as per a guide on here. Anyways it’s not mot time and it needs to be turned off.  

I have done the reset & yet it still flashes. All soldering joints check out, multimeter comes back with 2.2 on the reading.  

Any ideas what could be up ? Was all fine on old seats before fitting buckets ha 

any help appreciated thanks.

Hi all in need of s little help/advice. When I pull away the car judders and then the esp & vdc lights come on and drives as normal.  I think that the steering angle sensor needs to be reset as a while ago the column was removed from the rack & im guessing has been turnt very slightly as the wheel is now at the 1/2 o clock position as opposed to 12 o clock. 

Can the sensor be reset/recalibrated with basic diagnostics or a cable to purchase and download the Nissan consult software ??

any help appreciated & thanks in advance.

You will need to make a new manifold per side, no chance modifying existing ones as mainly they are cast so near on impossible to weld unless you brase & secondly won’t flow as well. 

The main thing that worry’s me about your build is you are already considering £150 turbos?! You want a decent set of Garrett B.B. or similar turbos for efficiency.  These alone will sting you close on the end of £2k.  If you buy second hand you can send them off for a refurb but If your worried about price do not take on this build as it isn’t cheap & if you do cheap out it will just be a waste of time re doing stuff. 

I speak from experience I tried to cheap out on hoses & clamps and in the end just cost me more time re doing them and the danger the oil hose was going to split or leaking. 

I have done pretty much what your saying although I started with a JWT LHD twin turbo kit from the states. 

The only bits bits I was able to use was the turbos, intercooler basically.  All the piping was custom, manifolds custom, fuel lines, exhaust, oil lines, coolant lines, fuel pump, bigger sump etc etc 

its a lot & I mean a lot of work it took me 3months of 6hours a night on and off there is a reason why garages charge the Earth because the labour you put in will be ridiculous.

also on cost the little parts mount up it’s the jic fittings that surprise you the most ha 

but if you do undertake it good luck and you will enjoy it in the end I’m now running 420bhp safely touch wood for the past 3years. 

2 minutes ago, Jetpilot said:

So whats the code?

I’m not with the car currently but I’ll try and pull the code up later, I’ve got a obd Wi-fi reader hopefully dashcommand will pick it up 

10 minutes ago, StevoD said:

This sniffs of bad axle tyre ratios 

Running 235/40/18 & 265/35/18 so slightly lower.

The strange thing however is that if I start the car stationary & turn full lock one way then full lock the other the lights come on and it doesn’t judder when pulling away ...

Hi guys not sure if in right section but had my 350Z for a few years now and when you pull away after a few yards the traction control & vdc lights come on and the car Judders for a second as if the abs is kicking in.  After that it drives as normal but the lights stay on.

I had the steering wheel shaft off the rack when I was building the car & I wonder if the steering angle sensor needs re calibrating ? That or perhaps an abs sensor ? 

Anu help appreciated 

I’m now about to fit a enclosed oil catch can & im turbo boosted.

currently my set up is pcv drilled out & vented to atmosphere with a filter. Then front plenum pipe blocked off. 

Rear breather plugged into oil catch can & tube from oil catch can to in front turbo intake to pull slight vacuum.

This or a better way to run the system ? 

12 hours ago, Ortega_9 said:

I can see that the aam spacer comes with an oil pick spacer. So i'm gonna go ahead and make one. 

I have the jwt oil pan spacer on my twin turbo & you need an oil pickup spacer in between the pickup as it then puts it further down into the oil. It can pickup from the bottom & not get starved going round corners etc 

Pmd you mate

I thought that ultra racing did a brace to replace this one that commonly rusts out ? 

Hi all

I've got a plenum spacer that i bought from jez my question is it ok to fit without mapping it in?

It's currently a twin turbo setup mapped by jez but my rocker cover gaskets are leaking so seems perfect time to fit the plenum spacer as I have to remove it all anyways to do the gaskets.

Any help appreciated

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If you do decide to change I've got a lovely set in the garage for sale 😂

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And Where about would these seats reside please, or are you willing to courier

There in Great Yarmouth, norfolk but can courier for extra that's not a problem

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