The Chubby Ninja

I'd say it was the release bearing then. It's hard to tell from the video but it's pretty common. They are only around a tenner but need the gearbox off to do so most people would just change the clutch and flywheel while it's out

Ah right lol. I couldn't remember for sure if he had sold it or I was just making it up haha. The engine developed a knock back in November but I've just forged it and about 2 weeks away from completing it, choking to get it out now! Ah well at least if he enjoys the karting keep him at it. I don't think I've actually ever seen your car haha just the van

Sounds like a worn release bearing. Have you got a single mass flywheel or do you have the standard dual mass?

I thought he had sold that?

Look how high it sits! It's like it's ugly but confident

Ewww that looks ****

^ it is possible to get over the line first (win race), yet with a slower 1/4 mile time.................................

That was not the case that day

I've heard someone say before that when it's too light, the revs fall too fast between normal gear changes but I haven't experienced it first hand. If you go with what tarmac advised with the light flywheel it's tried and tested on many of the forum cars (road and track) so won't give you any issues. The chatter really isn't bad it's just some people are really fussy about the odd little noise but it's not even noticeable really while driving

 

 

Quickest I've ever had out my HR was a 14.3 @ 103 (I've decided to retire it's 1/4 days after 5 yrs on the trot, it's done well, beating most stuff it raced - Except Kris's TTS... just incase hes watching from the shadows! )

Beat most things? What about the stock DE that kept beating you? never going to let you live that down haha. But yeah it showed that it's all in the launch, because I had good consistent launches I was pulling a good few car lengths on you from the start. It's weird that now I have alot more power that the times haven't shown it alot due to the excess wheelspin even with the welded diff. Not to mention crails surface is shocking. I'd like a go at the pod but it's just too far away for a bit of fun

I've never had an issue with the vortech max flow bypass valve and it's all covered in crud (no undertray for 2 1/2 years) you could get a mount for it welded onto one of your intercooler pipe? Just a thought

The simple answer is ...yes change about your exhaust... but no... don't de-cat things lol Its a no brainer. Not helpful I know but if you someone said to me you can do 'x' to your car but the result is a possible MOT fail or each year you'll need to swap stuff about, I'd be like...nah I don't need that.

 

I see people doing this and see the same problems and feel the need to moan about it haha. sorry

But your also someone who likes to keep things stock lol. Cats are the devil and should be removed at all costs! You just need a friendly tester or talk to the right people

Awww mint! A vq s14 will be awesome!

Thanks man that's what I thought. I can't try it as I'm in the process of building the engine just now. I hadn't gave the light a thought, it will probably stay on constantly if I remove it. Might just leave it in then. Cheers rich

Bump, does anyone know?

Bump, still after one of these

Just for future reference, I have used these in the shop and have carried the Payen seal kit in stock for the past 12 years

 

At the moment they are £29.95 delivered to your door.

 

7 units in stock.

 

Alex.

Ah no way! Ah well you love and learn

Your always going to get a bit of chatter with a single mass flywheel at low revs unfortunately but for most, the benefits far outweigh the negatives. Also never heard of a crank snapping because of a flywheel

I'm lucky enough to not need insurance lol. What sort of quotes have you been given? I remember when I was 21 my evo 8 cost me 3800 for 10 months! Wouldn't pay that again tho

Maybe the Mrs has put a tracker on you

Neither at the moment. Just uprev. It's fine for the stock boost levels.

 

Stock intercooler piping will be fine.

 

No, not removing the BOV now.

 

I'm being bled financially so, I've had to resort to just getting it on the road and make sure it's solid and reliable at 450hp and not shoot for the moon.

 

It may all be for the best as, if I can't legally drive the car, I'll have to sell it.

I know the feeling mate as I'm in the middle of forging mine myself, the price of the timing chains and pumps etc really start to build up (I knew I was going to replace them before I started but still alot of money none the less). I think that's the best idea to get it running right first. I've been without getting a shot in my z for 7/8 months now and it's killing me! Can't wait to get it back out and banging off the limiter all day again lol

I'm confused, it it syvecs or link ecu you've gone for? Just read your full thread there.are you going for bigger intercooler piping then? Also as for turbo flutter, I know you've done some reading on the matter but stopping something from spinning at tens of thousands of rpms pretty much instantly is only going to last so long, it's cool if you can afford to replace turbos all the time tho

I've also wondered this or if we could use one of the rear diffs from one of the 4x4s instead. The final drive is soo expensive to change on our diffs for what it is. I'm in for the info

 

Precisely. I'm tempted to just check.

 

I've asked around a few reliable personal sources and they said all R200 diffs will share same crown and pinion mounting.

 

What diff were you thinking about? I might just get an R200V from a breakers and buy a standard R200 and see how similar they are internally.

I'm not sure to be honest, maybe something off a patrol or something. Not sure what ratio they use or even what they look like. I'd think a 4x4 would have a nice and short final drive for the torque tho

I've also wondered this or if we could use one of the rear diffs from one of the 4x4s instead. The final drive is soo expensive to change on our diffs for what it is. I'm in for the info

Looking for some info on the standard oil pressure sensor on the DE. Is it's sole use for the gauge display? Or does it control the vdc timing aswell? I no longer have any standard gauges and would like to do away with the sensor and use the hole for my own sensor but I don't want to affect the running of the engine. Ps I know about the other sensor hole that can be used

Yep, got it off Amazon, only place I could find it after a long search. Link below.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=eg8230

Ahhh only just seen your reply. I've just spent 140 for it from z1 motorsport but it comes with all the gaskets aswell so I suppose it's not too bad :/