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kbeast35

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Posts posted by kbeast35

  1. Finally got around to doing the banana arms,  I had already had superpro bushes fitted around 4-5 years ago but had noticed a slight knocking noise more recently especially after a run so decided to replace the arms as the ball joints are known to cause this issue too, so the plan originally was to remove the old arms and swap the superpro bushes over to the new ones2926B2B1-840C-47EE-8F37-8345C6520D38.jpeg.a891f102b0e091dda2e708e7fcfd1973.jpeg129A43EB-40C9-4057-94E6-929DBF0E56CD.jpeg.97f86045a091c4d27bc8a2a578b53956.jpeg845B616B-790A-4715-8A15-3F39BA756BD6.jpeg.5f86c948844529867f0ffb60598fcdc2.jpegF127A5BE-8E03-442C-991F-DBBF644F6B8A.jpeg.1637f9bcd2ae02e1f39d4bba2d0bf61f.jpegAs you can see the sleeves are completely shot and unfortunately you can’t buy these separately and I wasn’t prepared to spend another £200 on something that in my opinion perhaps shouldn’t have rotted so badly in the first place, so just installed the new arms with the standard bushes

    77187C9C-3021-4FE2-99D9-E46261530864.jpeg.ff838f6e080b5f6017444a1843e55bd0.jpegThe chassis bolts were rusted as well but I half expected this after reading other threads260562A2-24E7-47C7-A7F4-A7791A9C9699.jpeg.b9ac72f2a33d9934b5e754af51203b19.jpegCleaned up with some scotch brite and a smear of grease

    i also purchased new cones for the ball joints 

    DC4C8302-9F04-401B-83BA-ABE00506AFBF.jpeg.2eb359a0b32b8ccadc8a3bfc8b98ba82.jpegNew arm and cone fittedA4CC2D7B-EE15-4704-973C-911E89A54570.jpeg.52bdff42c1f4310bec46aa49bd733fe5.jpegre installed the sub frame, and then it was time to fit the freshly refurbished wheels

    before pics655D20AC-E6AE-47DD-AD94-61A3E03D3503.jpeg.c062b5c7e3f546a16713370b4626b784.jpeg2056FE6B-B60E-4339-89E0-76777421D887.jpeg.58fe47ec8c2b576f05e8450703c0c62f.jpeg233403AC-51C5-414F-A37F-1E4F8BF690BA.jpeg.c4e62d30f5ce31e98c820c290f788155.jpeg2F9B3FC7-F4BE-4356-A9B0-91D11804D5F9.jpeg.b6d400ff45ea806b3c8c80e525dd9af2.jpegA99F221B-6C44-4E72-8399-1DA6F0C2388B.jpeg.ebae127b3f71cc8f5058e1be0aad5a6f.jpegas you can see they were pretty rough so I had them refurbed in sparkle silver at the wheel genie along with a fresh set of Mps4

    afterF37C939C-D600-4F17-9831-98CBED347D79.jpeg.eadbcf8f0305cb1b72dab16dbcb282af.jpegF1944385-E48C-4BBA-A931-48CE936458ED.jpeg.9bb7f352d81b37af68f37e977d285714.jpeg09702BC4-C9E2-459D-B7E6-CA9067B7C290.jpeg.0980522bcdaf90c6b4c0c57f45e6e032.jpegE073695C-A103-4843-9B3E-BE613931E736.jpeg.e2cdd225070bba4338ad14fd337d96d9.jpegthey are 100 times better than before but I can see pitting where the corrosion was and they have just powder coated over the top, not sure if this is standard practice DC3C0523-A178-450C-91E9-0AAB79A903A0.jpeg.157f29b298b7f200d9b31073d45140cc.jpegwill get some pics up fitted once I have given the car a clean

    • Like 2
  2. Hi, I’ve decided to park the z up for the winter for the first time as it’s in need of some tidying up, the usual suspects banana arms, wheel refurb, interior door handles etc. The car has been in the garage for a month now and I had been starting up regularly to get the temps up before switching off and noticed the battery was cranking a little slower than normal but I have just returned from a 2 week holiday and the battery is dead, I still get dash lights but not enough juice to crank the engine so should I buy a new battery and risk it also dying through being sat or try to charge the battery that’s fitted ?

    bearing in mind the car will be off the road until at least March, as always any advice would be greatly appreciated 

  3. What the guys above are saying is good advice,as annoying as it is that it's a non fault claim and you should be driving something equivalent to your own, I had a 'like for like' replacement when someone ran into my z, an Audi A6 convertible, I had the loaner for 7 weeks until I got part settlement, the cost for the loaner was £17500 and the tp were digging their heels in and refusing to pay and to be perfectly honest I couldn't blame them, I had one solicitors letter asking questions like 'at the time of the accident could you have afforded to hire your own car?' Filled out the forms and never heard a thing so can only assume it's all settled, the most annoying thing is that it would have cost half that to repair mine but they said it was beyond economic repair!!

    • Like 1
  4. When my z was written off I was offered the chance to buy it back and repair it myself which I did, albeit the car is now supposedly cat d and the only thing I had to do was get a new mot and let the insurance company know the certificate number and that was it, I didn't have to send the v5 away or get it independently inspected, have a chat with her insurers to find out what they require, hope this helps

  5. I had some bloke at the petrol station ask me what I had done to my car as we approached the pay kiosk, I told him exhaust, brakes thinking that would be it but he turned round and said 'yeah, I was looking at buying one of those but couldn't believe how slow it is compared to my 600bhp evo!' With that we walked back outside and he got into his clapped out transit and drove off, what an absolute tosser!!

  6. Well I'd feel terribly short changed if I had paid for a quali ticket today. Horrific regime that results with more in garage action than on the track. Q3 just doesn't work and fans have no idea what's happening on the track.

     

    As predicted terribly disappointing. These strategists are extremely intelligent, how could they not foresee such an obvious issue.

     

    Should have stayed in bed :lol:

     

    Agreed, waste of time, it just won't work in f1 without making it possible to finish a timed lap even if it has started and extending the window to 2 minutes but even then q3 will be just as bad, to finish 3 minutes before the flag is just ridiculous :angry:

    If they're going to stick to this set up then q3 needs to be as it was last year a straight shootout to at least get some last minute action, I'm wondering if Ferrari deliberately didn't run again just to prove a point of how bad an idea this format really is :shrug:

  7. hi slyone, replacing the relay has solved the issue i had the exact same symptoms, for a quick fix that will get your heater working again remove the small panel between the accelerator pedal and the door you will see a small fuse box undo the two 10mm bolts above th efuse box and one 10mm below the control unit and that will give you access to behind the fuse box you will see a small blue relay the one closest to the door is for the heater if you remove this you will see another one behind it swap them over and your heater will work but you will loose the lighting for the instrument cluster and guage pods and the radio and sat nav if fitted will not work but will eventually same as the heater problem you have now but you will be warm again :teeth:

    i got a second hand relay from zmanalex a trader on the forum or you could also try clark motorsport who also trade here, hope this helps and sorry for the late reply

    • Like 1
  8. hi all, as above my heater blower has started working intermittently, seems to only want to work once the car has warmed up and once working its fine, at first i thought it was the switch but having had a search it seems its more likely the blower motor

    anyone had any experience of this themselves and how easy is it to replace the motor?

    thanks in advance

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