Mrdeli

Oddly on my zed, there is a hatch under the oil plug, so it can be removed (and the filter) without having to undo anything - bonus!!

Yes i was hopeful of improvement - but as I say I didnt have a specific problems before I cleaned it, just thought it would do no harm ( I guess secretly I was hoping to release another 50 or 60hp )

Yes I'm delighted. My rear driver axle clicked every time from start. Now completely cured. The CV joints are a complete red herring (though logically seem to make perfact sence!)

Cleaned the throttle body. The pics show before and after. The pics are of the inner side of the throttle body (car 79k miles). Although there was a bit of gunk, cleaning it has not resulted in any noticeable differences (I guess in fairness I was not experiencing problems anyhow, but just like things clean!).

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Disclaimer - this worked for me and has for lots in the USA. I am not a trained mechanic - if you are unsure of mechanics leave this to an expert. I take no responsibility for any works that you choose to do to your car – any works are at your own judgement and risk. I would rate this repair as easy diy. My car has suffered from the well documented clicking noise (from drivers side) rear axle since purchase. There is an awful lot of information on the web about it - but the more you research it, the more different answers are thrown up. (It is possible of course that various different problems exist). I have however come to the conclusion that most posts assume that the universal joints are the problem. This initially seems to be logical - but I now believe in the vast majority of cases these are a red herring. My car exhibited 'classic' signs of the clicking axle problem. From standing still each time I moved off (forward or backwards) the rear axle would make a clicking sound. Also underway if I stepped off the gas and then back on it would often click. The click is not a constant click, just a one off click each time. Logic would assume that the universal joint may have a play in it, and that the 'slack' being taken up is what is causing the click. I was so convinced that this was the answer to the problem that I was about to purchase new universal joints. I then came across this thread – http://m.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=428639 Initially on the above thread it stated the fix was to remove the axle, grease and rotate the joint etc... But by the end of the thread the problem had been traced to insufficient lubrication to the inner edge of the axle splins and collar. Better still, to add lubrication just requires the axle nut to be slacked off, the axle pushing in around 1 1/2 inches and the area being lubricated. With hope more than expectation I did this today. Result - instant and 100% cure of the noise. If you read the thread you will see that persons who have done this fix a year or more ago have not had the problems return. It is however worth ensuring that a high quality grease is used (some have used a marine type). Tools required: 32mm axle socket (I purchased one from eBay at £3.8p), Breaker bar (tesco £5.99), Artist paint brushes to help apply the grease (12 pack from eBay £1.97, grease (I used Lucas x-tra heavy duty marine & bearing grease), lump of wood, torque wrench and pliers. First off jack up the car and remove the wheel (chock wheels). Use the pliers to remove the split pin. Attach the socket and loosen nut with the breaker bar or similar (anti-clockwise). Spin the nut off so it becomes flush with the end of the thread. Now push the axle in (you may wish to clonk it with a lump of wood or similar if it is stiff – by keeping the nut flush with the axle thread end, you should protect the thread from damage – don’t hit it too hard though!). Once it’s pushed in as far as it will go, look behind the disc and you will see the axle splins and collar exposed. Apply grease liberally to this area. Release the handbrake (ensure wheels chocked) and rotate the wheel so you can grease the other areas. Once greased, tighten the nut again (I think the torque is 177lbs) and this will draw the axle back out. Insert the split pin again and put the wheel back on - great now you have no more clicking! ïŠ Job time around 35 mins per side. Tips. 1. It’s a good idea to chock wheels as the hand brake is not effective when raising the rear wheels (also you may need to release the handbrake to rotate the hub for access when greasing. 2. It is a good idea to use axle stands as well as the jack for safety. Good luck

I hadn't considered that. Thanks. Ill have a further look and think whether I'd want to maybe upgrade again at a later time. Cheers mark.

I keep thinking about doing my spark plugs. Looks a bit of a pain, but not impossible. When putting new plugs in should a bit of copper anti seize be used or not? Thanks mark.

Hello, I have a 2005 zed I am wanting to upgrade the head unit. Mine is none Bose and I have already upgraded the front speakers to infinity 62.5 kappa components The two units I am looking at are as follows: http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/jvc-kw-xr811.html http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alp-cde ... 235bt.html I am wondering whether either of these is likely to bring a good uplift over the standard head unit or do I need to spend more for this to happen. I would also appreciate if someone could recommend the best quality fascia adapter for use with theses (or one for single din if that's a better fit). I would like the car to look as near oem as possible. Last time I changed the stereo on a ford the fascia unit was of really poor quality and a rubbish fit - I'm keen to avoid that on the Z. Thanks all. Mark.

I think there was a new firmware released a day or so back - have you applied it? Think I may install one too Which fascia adapter did you use - I'm keen to try and get one that fits snug and looks pretty oem. Good luck with the weekend install. Mark

I would have thought about £8500 would be nearer the mark.

Have you managed to install the parrot yet. Just wondering how the sound might compare to say an alpine head unit at a similar price?? Thanks mark.

I've yet to try the stereo since installing the sceond speaker, but i wasn't too pleased with my initial test after replacing the first one. It looks like a new head unit is called for (whether just a head unit would have done the job,without replacing the speakers I will never know - maybe someone else can answer that one. The two units I am looking at are as follows: Any comments??? http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/jvc-kw-xr811.html http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alp-cde ... 235bt.html Thanks all

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So following other guides - this is how i fitted the new speakers: Removed original speakers (as per guides on here) Ripped the original speakers from their mounting (thus scrapping them in effect) Removed rear plastic supports from the original speaker mount which just left the plastic speaker spacer Fitted the new speaker to the spacer (this was done with a silicone bed which acts as a bonding agent and to surpress vibration) and 4 self tapping screws Speakers then just fit back in the door perfectly. My speakers can with crossovers. I just hot glue gunned these ontop of the speaker spacer and door panel. It ended up a very secure and very straighforward job. 2 hours for both speakers from start to finish. Hope this may help someone. regards mark

Cleaned the MAF today. (79000 miles) It really was a 10 minute job. Used crc sensor cleaner. Removing the maf is just two screws. On inspection the maf seemed clean. A few sprays later, a few mins to dry off and then back in. Expecting nothing, I was surprised to find the engine definitely smoother. Effort v benefit - a definite no brainier. Throttle body on the weekend - bit more cautious about that one!! Wish me luck. Cheers all mark.

Ok, so I fitted the drivers door speaker today. The install went brilliantly - ill post up picks tomorrow - but basically I gutted the old speaker and then attached the new speaker to it for mounting. The sound unfortunately is only moderately better say 15% On that basis, I'll probably end up buying a new head unit so I can take advantage of proper iPod control etc. I'll report back when the second speaker goes in - maybe when they are both in operation things may sound better. Thanks for all help so far and the guides on here for door removal where very helpful. Cheers mark.

Yeah I'm pretty sure it's as good as any.

Yes guranteed for 2 years. http://autoscratch.co.uk/?gclid=CNDirOr ... tAodcC0-zQ I must say that the guy did a huge amount of prep work before spraying so i'd be amazed if there were any problems - although whether the curb gets them is another matter!!

Yes Im using the Nissan service that I had as an oil to get the last bits of crap out of the engine - I'll run it a few months on the Nissan 10w 40 and then I intend to put mobile1 in as I've read the Z likes this.

And her she is this morning

Here the pics - this was the worst wheel before and after. Then the car when I got it and now

Hi everyone. When I first got my Z, the first thing I did was a quick oil and air filter change. The air filter I got was from halfords (own brand) I've read up quite a lot on hear about different panel filters, none of which seem to make any real difference. I was wondering however if I should put something better in and was wondering what members thought. I guess my main worry is that the halfords own brand may be poor in comparison to even the oem filter. I have read that k&n filters can cause problems with the maf due to oil deposits so was thinking the cosworth filters may be good. Am I over thinking this - is the halfords filter actually likely to be just as good?? Thanks all. (ps I'm wanting to stay with the panel filter to avoid insurance issues)