jinxy

I think if you are that worried about fuel economy then look elsewhere. If you are pinching the pennies when it comes to fuel (approx another £20 max a week from your usage) then it is going to hurt when you have to replace tyres/pads/discs etc. You will have higher running costs than a hatchback.

Looks great, much better! Match ok?

It had the same finish before I painted it. I understand the facelift differences in the interior but the finish looks the same. You can avoid the textured finish by sanding down each coat but I preferred it and matches fine.

No, it is not the rubber paint. Tried that on other bits and pieces and never found it any good. This is more of a hard wearing multi-purpose spray paint. Held up great so far - thought there is not much point swapping for another part with the same easily scratched finish.

I would also like to know what paint RT would recommend as i need to do this job on my newly acquired Zed, great guide by the way The paint I used has stood up to any wear and tare so far... still looks as good as when I first painted it.

Mine was similar, it is a common problem. A bit of rubbing down and repainting and it comes up fine... if yours doesn't then just get a replacement, no harm done! Guide when I did mine: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=58937 Before: After:

I had a similar problem and doing the above sorted mine. Can't recommend ZMAN highly enough for parts & service -

If the noise is from inside then it is most likely the plastic around the strut brace making a noise. I had a few creaks/rattles when I first got my 350Z, can't stand them so managed to sort most of them.

I recently used some Gliptone Scuffmaster on my seat bolster, results below: Before: After: This wasn't just Scuffmaster for that repair though, I had to use some leather filler too but for smaller creases and cracks it does a good job. Would definitely recommend using a spray gun and watering it down and thin layers. You can use the gloss enhancer to adjust the shineyness, need to tone mine down a little now it has been conditioned as it looks a ever so slightly glossier than the rest of the seat but a massive improvement. Wouldn't recommend boot polish, pretty sure it would transfer onto clothes and can't be very hard wearing.

Won't be long till you spot mine either... I live in Southbourne too - black 05 GT.

Used some Scuffmaster today with a bit of leather filler to repair my worn seat bolster. I had to sand & fill the cracks then used a spray gun with the Scuffmaster as the finish was much better than using the sponge. Before: After: The kit supposedly doesn't need a sealant but I am considering using one anyway to seal the finish and increase the resistance to future wear.

Got the same ones myself, been posted on here before - great for the money! Flat blades look a lot 'neater' to me too. Only slight issue I have is the rear clip needs pressing back in every now and then, seems to work its way loose...

Yeah, thanks CS - great service. Going back into the garage next week though as the brakes still feel a bit spongy and needs another good bleed. Thought it might be the pads bedding in but its not really improved.

350 has had it's first good clean & polish today, couple of pics (only iPhone - sorry!). Stubby aerial fitted and braided lines & yellowstuff pads on... contemplating wheel refurb.

Just check you have the correct parts, link below to what you should have if you originally had Bose: http://www.incartec.co.uk/nissan/1929/1 ... owser.aspx Do you have the JVC patch lead?

I cut off the jack from the ICT adapter and just spliced/connected to the HU wire. More info and and photo from other thread below: viewtopic.php?f=27&t=57000

Most likely the remote wire for the amp not connected. Good guide with pics of wiring same unit: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=58538

Below is a video of the noise the light was making against the metal/glass before the fix:

Thought I would lost a pic of my finished install. Loads of useful info on here and managed to install without too much trouble. Only problem I did have was a slight electrical interference issue that caused a static snap noise whenever I applied the brake. Probably a dodgy ground or something but I installed a ground loop isolator that sorted the problem in case anyone else has this issue.

When waiting for a facia adapter for my double din stereo I had to drive the 350 with no stereo so I could hear all the rattles/creaks and managed to sort most of them but this one was the worst. I initially thought it was something in the strut brace but then found it was actually coming from the third brake light mounted on the tailgate. It seems the problem is with two plastic hooks that tap against the metal or glass of the tailgate creating the annoying tapping noise. Below is a quick guide how to stop annoying metallic sounding rattle/tapping/creaking noise coming from the boot/tailgate area, it worked for me but I’m not guaranteeing it will solve your rattle! Parts required: [*:3c5a36fx]Stick on felt – to insulate any noise [*:3c5a36fx]Philips screw driver – to remove brake light surround [*:3c5a36fx]Small socket set – to remove brake light [*:3c5a36fx]Trim removing tool (or replacement clips!) [*:3c5a36fx]Patience and care when removing trim – very easy to snap a clip First you need to remove the large lower trim piece from the tailgate. It is held on with clips that are very easy to snap, so be careful and slowly prise it off. I used a simple spatula from the kitchen to help persuade the clips off – starting from the sides. Once the main piece is off you need to pull the side parts off. These come off sideways – don’t make the mistake and pull off downwards like I did! Ha! Finally the last horizontal piece of trim will need clipping off and you will be able to see the exposed screw heads to remove the brake light enclosure. Once the enclosure is removed you will see that the brake light is held in place by two flanged nuts – unscrew these and the light will slide sideways and drop down. You will now see the two offending clips that seemed to be creating all the noise. It is strange as I am not sure why they are really needed and they seem to already have some sort of felt already on them so Nissan must have know it was a problem. I thought about adding more felt to them to dampen the noise but decided to just snap them off as they are not really needed as the light is held in place by the two nuts. I also added the stick on felt to the brake light to dampen any other noise that could be generated and put everything back together. Clip on the light: Clip snapped off: Been out for a spin down the normal offending bumpy roads and it is silence in the back… just a couple of noises coming from the dash that are next on my hitlist!

First photo at Castlepoint?! I'm from Bournemouth too, welcome!

Well I removed the noise myself by installing a Ground Loop Isolator from Maplin (http://www.maplin.co.uk/ground-loop-isolator-33172). I know this doesn't really solve the problem as it is just covering it up but it is good enough for me as I don't get the clicking noise every time I hit the brake that was driving me insane! Hope this helps someone else as I couldn't find much info on it anywhere else.

Sorry to dig this thread up but I am getting this same issue after installing my head unit. Followed all the guides on here and everything is working fine apart from this annoying static clicking noise when breaking. Any ideas anyone? I have pulled it all out again today and double checked everything but can't find anything wrong?

Good tips. Thanks for the suggestions. I don't mind the textured finish, looks OEM style still. What paint would you go for then RT? I will have to see how the plastikote stands up to a bit of wear and tare.

I installed the same head unit into my 350Z the other weekend using bits of this and other guides on the forums. Can't recommend the unit highly enough, looks great, works great has a detachable front panel for security and is relatively cheap. I'm glad I found this forum it is packed with useful information and helpful people!