kano

Would't I be able to hear something rattling at lower speeds? Worth checking next weekend tho. Ta.

I suppose it could be the other wheel bearing. I've read that you can't always detect play in the bearing by wobbling the wheel, and that weaving from side to side sometimes doesn't always change the sound. The only thing I'd say is that the noise does seem to come from the nearside wheel area. But who knows, it could be the other bearing. The noise is fairly faint so I might have to wait until it develops more before I can tell for sure.

Don't forget that little one way value that can get clogged up. My washer jets went "limp" and I thought the pump was shot - turned out to be the one way valve. About £2 to replace in 5 mins. You can see if yours is clogged by simply unplugging it and seeing if the pump is still putting out good flow.

I can coast in neutral and the noise stays the same, plus I can't hear the noise under about 40mph, so I think its a moving part that's causing the problem. Thanks for the suggestion tho!

Guys, Any idea what this noise could be? You can't hear anything below about 40mph and then it starts as a low drone and gets louder with speed. It comes from the near side rear area. If I coast in neutral the noise is still there. Also still there if I apply the brakes slightly, or weave from side to side. What I've ruled out so far: Wheel bearing (I had it replaced with a new hub) Diff oil, replaced with nissan oem fluids Gearbox oil, also replaced with nissan oem oil and molyslip Changed the wheel for a spare wheel off another set Replaced the discs and pads with Stoptech Tyres are fairly new with out 1000 miles on them. Fronts have about 15k on them but still have 4mm and a slight bit of inner edge wear. Exhaust is pretty new too, an OEM one with about 5000 miles on it, from the CATS back. I recently had a banana arm changed on the noisy side, not sure if the noise was there before the arm was changed. Here's an audo recording of the noise, best heard about 1 minute into the clip. http://yourlisten.com/kayno/350zdrone My next theory is the alignment is off and this is somehow causing the noise. I've never had the alignment checked before, its a 2004 UK spec 350z. Could this be it? Cheers guys!

Are these flywheels any good? I'm looking for one as a direct OEM replacement. Not interested in anything uprated over stock quality.

I've no idea what it is. Slightly worrying. But I've bought a replacement Exedy clutch, and I'll probably get an oem flywheel at some stage too. Buying the bits over a few months as its flipping expensive!

Just made a video and uploaded it to youtube! This is how noisy it is!

I've got a nasty loud whining noise when pressing and releasing the clutch of my zed. In neutral or when the clutch pedal is fully pressed in there's a bit of noise but not too much, it's only when the pedal is moving when its really noisy. Any ideas? I've been told its the release bearing? Car is a 2004 plate with 78k miles on its first clutch (I think).. Cheers!

I emailed them quoting their too good to be true price for a set of dba 4600s rotors - their response was that the website was out of date and in the process of being updated. I'd ignore the site for the time being, prices are well out. They emailed me a quote for something like £390 for the dba disks, in the end I got them from Cougar store for £345 delivered.

Dont get Potenza 040's! Miles better tyres out there.

Ah! Ordered a set of DBA4600s yesterday and was wondering why I hadn't heard anything other than an automatic order confirmation. Hope he's not too tired after his honeymoon!

I'm getting the oil for my next service in a few weeks time. The brake discs were badly worn and needed replacement urgently, the rear tyres were down to legal limit, so didnt have much choice. Ok, HEL lines and motul fluid were a bit extravagant but thought I might as well with ds2500s and dba4600s discs! After reading quite a lot I'm more than likely going to get 5L of 5w30 Pro S, my rationale is that it'll save 1-2% fuel over 5w40 which in this day and age is worth a fair bit, also hopefully any oil left in the 5L container will be enough to top it up until the next service as it shouldn't burn too much off being fully synthetic, so I won't have to pay £15 for a 1L top up bottle as I usually have to!

They do include a brake fluid change - on my service sheet for P2 and P3 its got a big juicy "R" next to "Brake fluid - check for level and leaks", on a P1 its just an "I" for inspect. They use 1L of brake fluid which costs £7. God knows what the quality of that is! Incorrect I'm afraid - according to the schedule for the 350z on page 18/19 of the service booklet it just has an "I" next to brake fluid for all 3 services. Brake fluid changes are under the additional service items at additional cost to the right side. I think you're looking at the wrong checklist [attachment=1]service book.jpg[/attachment] (unless you have a service sheet from somewhere else?) Maybe they've updated the service sheet? This one is from my last service, plus on the invoice I have a payment for 1L of brake fluid, so I'm assuming they've changed the brake fluid and not just topped it up. Edit: It's not in the additional service items area any more. I reckon people weren't changing the fluid so as a safety issue they moved it from additional to mandatory.

They do include a brake fluid change - on my service sheet for P2 and P3 its got a big juicy "R" next to "Brake fluid - check for level and leaks", on a P1 its just an "I" for inspect. They use 1L of brake fluid which costs £7. God knows what the quality of that is! Fair play.......I'm sure my local Nissan dealer said it wasn't but in honesty I wouldn't put them in charge of a can of baked beans never mind a 350! When my service comes round I'm going to provide them with 1.5L of Motul RBF600, they better not balls it up!

They do include a brake fluid change - on my service sheet for P2 and P3 its got a big juicy "R" next to "Brake fluid - check for level and leaks", on a P1 its just an "I" for inspect. They use 1L of brake fluid which costs £7. God knows what the quality of that is!

Really? Ah - missed this caviat on the service sheet: "Maintenance free on 350z"

The usual service period is 9000 miles or 12 months, whatever is sooner. So it looks like the owner skipped 2007 because of the low mileage which is a bit naughty. If I was you I'd go with a P2. A P3 isnt that much more than a P2. As far as I can see the only difference is changing the rear diff oil, which in your case shouldn't matter too much as it was done only 19k miles ago. Check your maintenance book/past receipts for any additional service items too: Fuel filter every 36k Antifreeze every 36k Spark plugs every 54k or 5 years Those aren't included in any of the services (P1,P2,P3) however the garage should advise you need these doing when you book the car in. Some don't however.

I've got a service coming up and have been looking for a good oil to use. I know I want a fully synthetic 5w30 oil. I've spent a LOT of cash on the car recently (tyres, DBA discs, DS2500, HEL lines, RBF600) and don't really want to stump up too much cash for oil if I can help it, although I do want something of good quality. I don't track the car but I do give it a 15 mile blast over country roads 4-5 times a month. I've been looking at Fuchs Titan XTR which seems to tick all the boxes, affordable, conforms to ACEA A5, decent brand, etc. Oilman has it here: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-991-fuchs-t ... e-oil.aspx However, it is quite cheap and I've always thought you get what you pay for. Also this statement is putting me off a little: http://mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/archi ... 29805.html In it, Fuchs seem to say that XTR is actually a mineral oil dressed up as a synthetic oil and they can only get away with calling it synthetic in the UK? So in Germany for example, would Titan XTR be classed as a mineral oil? I'm a bit confused at the moment, I might just go for an ester based oil such as Fuchs Pro S just to make life easier! But then again, that would be dearer and probably offer me no advantage over the £30-40 price oils for what I do in the car..

Ha I've got one of those! Also still in the box after about 4 years... Just waiting another 30 years until I can retire before I have time to do it!

Tyres actually have a use by date. After about 6-7 years they should be replaced whatever the wear level, as the rubber will perish. That's date from manufacture - not date of being fitted. You can see on the tyre the date of manufacture, which is usually melted into the tyre wall. I've got a spare set of alloys with tyres that came with the car, about 5mm of tread left but I'll only use them in an emergency as they are getting old.

get some shims from their website or halfords then? Will use the shims that came with my yellowstuff pads, if I have to.

Are shims needed with ds2500s? Dont fancy spending £80 on a set of titanium shims!

Yep, it hasnt been updated for ages. The discs I asked about where £50 more expensive when I inquired..

I emailed the site as I thought the prices looked good. I got a reply pretty quick, but the actual prices were a bit steep: "We can do you the 4600S front discs for £372 a pair and the DS2500 front pads for £110. If you buy them together, we will offer you free next day delivery."