sunshine

Perfect excuse to strip the entire car of excess weight and turn it into a track monster

You could fix all that for less than a grand, £2900 lol.

And dont fall for that b***s*** about the clutch, they told me the exact same then i asked if i could try the clutch on the 350 sat on the used carpark for comparison. Amazingly they didn't have the keys...

*******.

Not a fan of the rasp, always reminds me of chavvy boy racers with a big eggzorst on there 1.2 punto's.

Why anyone would want to imitate that sound with a 3.5 v6 is beyond me

 

Chavs dont rasp they always have boomy droney systems.

 

German cars like M's and amg like to rasp

Exibit A :

Exibit B:

I rest my case

Difficult to diagnose with that description.

Is the clutch/gearbox operating normally?

The squek will be the rear strut bar, i think nissan put a mouse inside all of them, the normal cure is to take the plastics off and let it free, wd40 everything so it wont come back and reassemble

Sounds to me like your clutch fluid is leaking, try bleeding it first.

Not a fan of the rasp, always reminds me of chavvy boy racers with a big eggzorst on there 1.2 punto's.

Why anyone would want to imitate that sound with a 3.5 v6 is beyond me

Hey buddy.

I'm not 100% but I'm quite sure the thrust bearing is always spinning.

Pedal not pressed, clutch engaged, thrust bearing being spun by input shaft.

Pedal pressed, clutch disengaged, thrust bearing being spun by diaphragm spring.

The noise does stop instantly when the pedals dropped down, even when the car is rolling. Which I think rules out the chance of it being the gearbox bearings and they are always going to be spinning when the car is in motion, regardless of whether the clutch is in or out (unless in neutral)

I hope that makes sense.

I'll know 100% next week when I replace the clutch, I'll happily come back and let you know if I'm wrong!

Thanks for the input though mate.

Do I need to change the flywheel with the clutch?

38mpg? sounds like you weren't driving it home properly!

Just kidding, i remember that feeling, tbh it never goes away.

Honestly if you just want a more aggressive noise and aren't really bothered what the engine bay looks like then cut the front of the airbox off in front of the panel filter.

The induction sounds amazing and you wont have spent £££ on a CAI that does absolutely nothing for power anyway.

Its the best mod i've done to my z and best of all it cost nothing.

I did think this but my understanding was I thought release bearings were noisy when the pedal is pressed down?

I had the release bearing die in my last car (shitroen saxo) that was like that.

I've not seen the clutch setup on a zed, are the bearings thrust bearings?

That may explain why it sounds like a dried out bearing with no load (pedal released) and why the noise is eliminated when its under load (pedal is pressed).

Thanks for helping.

Original/oem clutch/fly still in there?

Yeah I think so, absolutely nothing in the service history to suggest otherwise.

Hi all,

I've got a 54plate VQ35DE with 94,000miles on the clock.

I've owned the car for about a year and since i've owned it its always made this noise from the transmission when the clutch is disengaged...

It's never got worse so i've never really looked into whats causing it.

All the gears select no problem and the clutch operates with no issues.

Is this a common issue or am i unique?

To be honest i wouldn't mind finding out what the problem is so i can fix it, im getting pretty tired of people asking me if im supercharged

And yes i need fuel

Thanks.

Tom

Flicking through the service history of my zed the other day I've noticed theres no evedence if the clutch ever being replaced.

There cars a 54plate with 94,000miles

Whats the average life of the clutch expected to be?

To be fair mine still bites hard but the pedel does come up quite high. Also the thrust bearing is noisey, but it certainly doesnt feel like its on borrowed time

tyres is pretty much personal preference, theres a thread on here devoted to tyres.

 

Spc rear camber arms and toe bolts

spc/eibach upper adjustable front a-arms

adjustable drop links(not needed but recommended)

Would you reccomend poly bushes as well? Not really planning on tracking the car so might be pointless?

No I need to get the alignment done, what I'm asking is what parts will I need to buy so the alignment can be adjusted back into spec after the drop. It must be a mile out now because the car feels terribly unstable on rough ground.

I'm running good year eagle f1's need changing soon though, what do people recommend? Thanks.

Hi I've lowered my zed 30mm on eibach pro springs and now the handling is dire, bump steers all over the place and the turn in feels awful. I know why this is but what suspention parts exactly do I need to buy to put the wheel alignment back into spec and where can I buy them? I think I'm right in saying the standard components dont offer enough adjustment?

On the plus side the car looks frekeing awesome

Cheers

combine what myself and chris have both mentioned and i think you will have found the cause!

 

usually a bust sensor would ping a warning light on the dash constantly! so its gotta be somthing simple!

 

Yeah i completely overlooked the tires to be honest. I just assumed because they have tread they are okay! Thanks for the info

Have you had the tyres changed recently and/or are the fronts on the way out with the rears having more tread? Both can cause the TCS to think the rears are spinning slower than the fronts relatively which means the rears in real terms have to be spinning more before TCS will kick in.

 

 

That sounds exactly like whats wrong, i had new rears fitted a few weeks back and the fronts have about 3mm left. Also the cars been lowered, not sure if that would have an effect? Cant see why it would though..

To the guy who asked they are the normal road f1's.

Looks like new front tires then, thanks

This is most likely the cause. I think the TCS is designed to take into account some degree of tyre wear but obviously it will expect tyres to wear at a fairly even rate. With relatively smaller tyres on the front and larger on the rear to what the TCS expects, it will take a little longer for it to think the rears are spinning faster than the front (ie slipping) and kick in. Personally, I'd prefer it like that as the 350z TCS is quite violent when it kicks in and can unsettle the car more so just go with it.

 

If when you get new fronts and all the tyres are bedded in it still does the same then we can look at other causes

It deffinately seems like a logical explination, im sure it worked fine prior to having new tires.

What concerns me now is the fact the car can go sideways, isnt that on a different system with a yaw sensor, or are they connected? I havent tried to get it sideways since it failed today, so may just be a one off

Clutching at straws now aren't we neil?

Problems been answered now by someone wanting to help so get out of my thread, thanks.

Have you had the tyres changed recently and/or are the fronts on the way out with the rears having more tread? Both can cause the TCS to think the rears are spinning slower than the fronts relatively which means the rears in real terms have to be spinning more before TCS will kick in.

That sounds exactly like whats wrong, i had new rears fitted a few weeks back and the fronts have about 3mm left. Also the cars been lowered, not sure if that would have an effect? Cant see why it would though..

To the guy who asked they are the normal road f1's.

Looks like new front tires then, thanks

are tyre sizes same front and rear?

 

you need the rears to be 2 sizes bigger - there is a list on here of tyre sizes that 'work' beleive me without the correct sizes front and rear your traction control wont know what to do rain or no rain

 

also - i had goodyear eagle f1's with the arrow like tread pattern and they were awful in the rain.

 

are yours the eagle nct5's with a more common tread pattern or just eagle f1s with the arrow tread pattern similar to that of many track day tyres?

 

also check how much tread left on the rears? once they get to below 3mm especially in the wet the grip is drastically reduced.

 

without answers to these questions its very hard to start diagnosing if its a tyre fault or traction control problem

Thanks ill go check these things

What tyre sizes?

 

I don't think people are being patronising just honest, no real need to be so defensive. As has been said, if you're driving smoothly the TCS will never come on, so if it is or you feel like you need it then you need to be looking at driving style as much as anything.

 

 

245/45/18

 

Driving style my a%^e!

Its not that i need the tcs, id just like to think thats its working incase im ever in a emergency situation. You simply cant predict when you may need to make a evasive manouver to avoid an accident, those systems are put there to save lives and im not happy sticking my missus behind the wheel of a car that i know those systems aren't effectively working.

Put it this way i bet jenson button wears a seatbelt, doesnt matter how good of a driver you are accidents happen and systems are put in place to help the driver and passenger come away unharmed.

look mate, look at the amount of posts every replying member has.

Most of us have lots of experience with driving these cars on track and on roads.

If your going to use poor language I suggest you go elsewhere. You have now made yourself the forum tosser of the day... Well done. Go pay nissan a few hundred quid to sort out your problem. for you

Oh dear! No need to throw the toys out the pram pal but your combined knowlage of a few thousand posts on a internet forum has been absolutely utterly useless upto yet. The biggest ignorence is thinking you know more than you actually do. The amount of posts you have is of no relavence or interest to me whatsover, so either you know why the TCS isnt working or you dont, it doesnt take a genius to figure out that if you knew what was wrong you would just say.

I dont know what is wrong hence why i asked for help, not wanting to be patronised by a bunch of internet ken blocks about my driving style.

Seems ive come to the wrong place eh?

What tyre sizes?

 

I don't think people are being patronising just honest, no real need to be so defensive. As has been said, if you're driving smoothly the TCS will never come on, so if it is or you feel like you need it then you need to be looking at driving style as much as anything.

245/45/18

Driving style my a%^e!

Its not that i need the tcs, id just like to think thats its working incase im ever in a emergency situation. You simply cant predict when you may need to make a evasive manouver to avoid an accident, those systems are put there to save lives and im not happy sticking my missus behind the wheel of a car that i know those systems aren't effectively working.

Put it this way i bet jenson button wears a seatbelt, doesnt matter how good of a driver you are accidents happen and systems are put in place to help the driver and passenger come away unharmed.

Goodyear eagle f1's on the standard rays.

Somethings definately wrong with it as its normally very intrusive/senseative, but i just seems to have stopped working almost at all and when it does there is a very big delay.

Thats why i dont really appreciate people just popping there 2 pence worth in as im actually after help not to be patronised.

Probably a sensor error? Is there a way to reset or check the system without a trip to the dealer?