John-Fram

Tuesday - jumped in car as normal, took 4 goes to start - very unusual but thought I must have come off the clutch too soon. Drove 16 miles no issues except engine management light on. Drove 16 miles home no issues - could red line it without any problem. That evening started it fine, drove maybe 200m and thought it had cut out. Loads of lights up inc ESP and traction. Idling but no revs showing. Could only drive it on idle changing speed with gears but essentiallyI could limp faster. Thursday checked over by mechanic who drove it maybe 5 miles. Same lights but no problems. Later would start but only on idle, again no throttle response. Fault codes (sorry don't have them) suggest its a throttle valve or controller problem. Nissan want an obscene amount. Any ideas on fault, why and solutions. Cheers 350Z 2005 60k miles

Now whereas I have a 350Z a mate has just acquired a 350GT. He is after a pipe that goes between the throttle body and MAF from a 350Z. It would need to be 2003-2007 as he believes a later model has twin air intakes? The following link has some pics. Apparently the 350GT has a restrictive baffle arrangement whereas the 350Z pipe fits straight on to replace it. http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q= ... a=N&tab=wi Any help or advice appreciated including professional counselling.

If you are worried about tackling the bumper with a conventional set up, consider this. I have just fitted a Targa SR2 from Abacus Car Alarms. £65 delivered. The unit features two sensors that fit within a registration plate frame. I actually think it looks better with the plate in the black frame. To be honest it was an easy fit for me as my old defective bumper based ones were already connected to the reverse light. (I couldn't get anyone interested in a repair!) There was no need to take the interior trim out, just needed to remove the spare wheel and bend over the boot sill to get all the access I needed. The unit comes with a simple black box and a small speaker which I left in the spare wheel well, so nothing at all can be seen from the inside. http://www.abacuscaralarms.co.uk/alarms ... ensors.htm Sorry would add pictures but insufficient user IQ to work out how to do it.

Just a query about the heated seats. From a US document I believe both the bottom and backs of the seats have heater elements in them but both my seats only seem to warm the back. I've checked for loose connections underneath in case some previous owner disconnected them for fear of medical issues shall we say but nothing seems to be wrong. Unless its a common fault with them, I reckon the chances of both seats failing in this way are minimal so: Is it a common fault? Can someone confirm that both parts should warm up? Is there an obvious fault eg separate fuses?????? Cheers John

I'd echo a lot of previous posts. For years as a family we have had PC's and put up with them, believing all the Mac stuff was hype and 'fashion'. #1 son got a macbook at Christmas 2009 and he is a gamer. We got an iMAc in Feb 2010, #2 son an iMAc in June 2010 and the in laws started out with an iMac later in the summer. Apart from wishing we had shares, should have done it sooner. Cost more sure but with ours I got all the software I need bundled and the support is first class. There is simply no comparison. The functions that are not automatic are intuitive. If you want to spend more (eventually) and build yourself a custom machine that you will then spend regular hours maintaining then fine, a PC is the natural choice. If you want to buy a cheap machine, get your software shall we say for free, are happy to turn your machine on and put the kettle on while it boots up, again fine get a PC. A Mac is a bit like a Zed, not cheap but puts a smile on your face - well 99% of the time.

Sorry this wont help you get it started this time but in future I would recommend an Optimate. See http://www.optimate.co.uk/ I use this for the wife's Figaro when we take it off the road over winter. It conditions the battery and you can fit trailing leads so that all you have to do is plug it in - no need to remove or even disconnect the battery. It will even charge from flat so if all else fails you could buy one now. If your battery is knackered it will also tell you. Cheers John

Not really. First I tried but failed to paste in a chart of costs per mile v annual mileage for different mpg's. I have attempted to upload a pdf of it instead but apologies if a lack of user IQ means it has not worked. Second, I have ignored any consideration of the impact on the planet and the environment in general, (which if that was truly important then we would not be wasting energy importing anything from the other side of the said planet). Instead I have focussed on running costs per mile; not simply fuel economy. Granted the softer and more economically we drive then the less we will spend on fuel but that is just part of the overall cost. Also if we keep it in the garage and only drive 2 miles to the pub on a Sunday then we are not going to spend much on fuel compared with shampoo and wax. This is of course based on my circumstances which includes £245 road tax and insurance for less than £300 - but the principles will hold firm. I have included interest on a loan/loss of interest if car sold and money invested, depreciation (£1000 for 10000 miles), road tax, insurance, RAC/AA etc, MOT, servicing, tyres (£500 for 18000 miles) then calculated the cost per mile for 20, 30 and 40mpg for annual mileages of 1000 to 20000 miles. I used £1.40/l. I think at least for me 20 mpg is below the tolerance level of the passenger whereas 40 is beyond my wildest expectations. If you spend more on tax, insurance, tyres then the following cost comparisons will be even tighter. Conclusions? I'm sad to analyse this. You are probably just as sad if you are still reading this. Below around 2000 miles per year I might as well enjoy myself for 20 mpg at£1.09/mile compared with striving to achieve 40 mpg at 93p/mile. For less than 3000 miles per year there is next to no difference between 30 and 40 mpg. Even at my annual mileage of 9000, there is only 5p difference per mile or less than £500 per year so there is little point in spending a large sum to achieve such a large improvement. At 9500 miles, fuel begins to be > 50% of the overall cost for 20 mpg. Amazingly I would have to do more than 50000 miles per year at 30 mpg before fuel began to approach 50% of the cost. If I could achieve 40mpg then forget it, other running costs are always going to dominate. So what? Well for me given I am not about to sell her because I love driving her so much then I am not going to invest in fuel saving mods nor worry if an occasional burst of enthusiasm takes me well below 30mpg. Fortunately my daily commute of 16 miles each way can be accomplished with minimal stops for 30 ish. Nissan_350Z.pdf

All fine before a holiday, came back, jumped in car, put in reverse only to hear a near constant squeal irrespective as to what is behind. No obvious damage or dirt or debris over sensors. Advice please on what might be the cause and of course how to fix it. Ear plugs are useful to address the symptom at the moment but does make reversing a bit of a chore! Cheers John

Just arranged mine to start in the new year. Tried the Meerkats and then followed up with Admiral and Elephant as they were cheaper. The sites look the same to me but eventually went with Elephant as somehow able to get a better quote with an increased voluntary excess. Judging by your quote you are either younger (age has some benefits), use it a lot or have a worse history - For a total excess of £600 & 9000 miles I have settled for £281 inc a cc fee of £6 which includes the Mrs, no claims protection, courtesy car etc and cover for 90 days abroad etc. Some people like a lower excess but I don't expect to claim so might as well benefit from a significant premium reduction. I can't use a specialist yet as haven't had a performance car for a year but Elephant don't mind. Sorry if this sounds smug - probably am because I pay almost as much for a 90bhp Picasso and I expected this to be an expensive car.

Sad maybe but the BOSE system was a key factor in deciding what to buy. Mine shows no sign of skipping and sounds great. Perhaps you either love or hate BOSE. My only problem is naff radio reception which I thinkis down to a non standard stubby aerial. Fine probably in metropolitan areas but not in rural Suffolk

Hi all As I have had my long desired 350Z now for coming up to 4 weeks, I thought it was about time to introduce myself and to start progressing up from newbie. Anyone else out there who also happens to own a Figaro? Probably not, they could be regarded as being at the opposite extremes of Nissans'. As you seem to like to mention exactly what the car is, as far as I know is a standard GT in gun metal. When I can arrange for it to be clean at the same time as we have some decent weather I'll try to take some pictures and post them. To me its special but it is to all extents and purposes stock. Cheers John PS the wife was very keen for me to buy one. This is probably explained as easing her guilt about having bought her the Figaro but who cares.