Hayd350

Or maybe the door handle itself? Is the inner door release connected to the outer mechanism via cables and link rods? 

I'd strip it all down and take a look but that's easier said than done when the door's closed 🤦‍♂️

Hi all,

Hopefully someone can help. Drivers door wont open from the inside or outside. It's a topic that's been covered on here a few times. Mechanism makes all the right noises but still wont open.

The garage I had the MOT at managed to get my door open and replaced the door latch mechanism, great, it got me through my MOT. 2 days later and I'm back to square one. I can't get in or out of my drivers door. My question is, could it be the actuator? I'm under the impression the actuator turns the signal from the fob into the mechanical motion required to release the door but does the actuator also control a manual lock opening as that doesn't open the door either? 

I'm running out of bits to replace and my Bill's are getting bigger. 

Any one any advice they can offer?

Thanks in advance, 

Hayd.

On 14/07/2023 at 15:20, ZMANALEX said:

Instruct the garage to use an induction heater to free off the bleed nipple if it is seized.

 

I have bled hundreds of the 350Z DE and HR models and have encountered tight bleed nipples but never seized to the point of them snapping if you proceed with caution.

Awesome. I'll do that. To be honest they dealt with so many seized chassis bolts on the W brace and Kidneys that i think they just reached their limit when they got to the clutch so sacked it off. Appreciate your input as always. 👍

Had my car in for some suspension bits with a view to bleeding the clutch at the same time. Mechanic suggested the blead valve was seized and didn't want to push it incase it cracked something on the slave. Suggested i have a new slave on standby just incase which seems a little extreme to me considering it's location. Is it a metal valve in a plastic housing? Either way i'm no further forward.

Uprated CSC when i moved to the Extreme clutch kit about 30k miles ago.

Cheers Alex, sounds like the simple low cost solution i was after. I'll look into that, Appreciated 👍

Morning all,

I don't have the technical know how to diagnose this issue so i'm reaching out to those that do.

350z HR, new clutch and slave cylinder 30k miles ago. Recently once the car has warmed up the biting point for the clutch seems raised. It's throwing me out and i'm constantly fighting to prevent stalling. Could this be a  master cylinder related issue? The fact that it's absolutely fine when it's cold makes me think there's potentially a leaky seal / valve or something. I'll be honest i don't know if the fliud gets warm or wether it's a pressurised system. As i say, i'm not that technical.

Any help would be appreciated, it's getting embarassing more than anything as it's maybe me look like i just don't know how to drive.

Hayd.

Supercharged 720 pickup looks mega 👌

I've had my BERK hfc's for the best part of 10 years and i've never had an Mot failure.

Worth checking the top of the fuel tank too as the seals can perish over time and you get the smell in the cabin. This was the solution for my Uncle. I've got a strong smell of fuel in My 2008 when i put the hammer down. It sales through the MOT so i'm not putting it down to the HFC's, possibly the fuel sloshing and seaping through the top seal. Worth investigating.

10 hours ago, ATTAK Z said:

Yep that was me

Ahh good. I thought i was loosing it for a moment. I just had a flasback and ran with it.

22 minutes ago, RDON said:

Yes you could say it is a bit random lol, I have not been to Ilkley so unfortunately we have not met as of yet.

Ahh well now that i've made things weird i'll see you at the motorist 😁

25 minutes ago, ATTAK Z said:

Yea, I've been a couple of times and would love to attend if the Z-club will allow other cars to join in

Might be a bit random this but have we met? I've a feeling it was yourself who called into our kitchen showroom in Ilkley many years ago because my car was outside?

Looks like it's had a bit of further investment since i last went. A little more than an on site cafe thats  for sure. 😁

I've been over a number of times, the last being a GTR owners club meeting. It's a nice spot with an on site cafe with indoor and outdoor seating so a great place for a gathering. I'd be up for it. Not too far from me at all.

Quick one. I've had a fair bit of work done to the 350 recently and the rear window has been removed and re fit. I think the seal has been replaced but it's about an inch short in the corner and the adhesive isn't strong enough to hold it so it regulally needs re seating. I'm thinking this part has been replaced with a naff none OEM option that's simply too short. Can someone confirm if the Nissan option is a single piece hoop rather than with a split?

Nice machine. The V3 nismo HR is a lovely thing indeed and i've often scowered the classifieds to find one in the UK. Never any luck. A rare beast and almost guaranteed to be a collectors car in the future if not already. If i was less attached to my 350 which i've owned pretty much since new i'd be incredibly tempted. Best of luck with the sale.

On 14/03/2022 at 08:21, Jack94 said:

I'd also reccomend changing the headunit, however if you really want to keep the oem one a member on here has developed a kit to add Bluetooth-

Works a treat too. Oem interior for the win 👌

So a balance between the two is what i'm aiming for in that case. The car handles fine, it's just the camber looks a bit of a dog on the rear and it's upsetting eyes.

Ok cheers that makes sense then. We'll have a tinker. I say we, a mechanic friend of mine with a state of the art laser alignment set up, I'll just point at stuff.

My car was heavy toe in so we adjusted that first to make it driveable but then ran out of time. 

Afternoon All,

Just playing around with alignment on my 350 and the new SPL rear camber arms seem to be effecting toe rather than camber? Can any one shed any light on this somehow

as everythings back in spec but camber needs adjusting as it's pretty far out.

We're going to loosen things up and start from scratch but it feels like the long way round and i'm sure / hoping there's a logical explanation for it.

Any input as always is appreciated.

A tidy little HR is that. Mileage is really low, like really low. Not many in red either. Price seems a touch high but as a fello HR owner it's nice to see. Can't imagine there's many on the road with this kind of mileage though so that's what you're paying for.

On 23/07/2021 at 21:25, Azzakaze said:

Apparently 14/15 psi is the minimum it should be according to Nissan, anything lower or say more closer to 0 psi then it needs to be dealt with ASAP, which is of course replacing the Gallery Gaskets that go bad as they are made out of paper, nothing can be done to prevent it from going bad, it will happen sooner or later, my cold start today was at 110 psi,after 30 mins of being warmed up it went down to 15-20 psi ,not sure how urgently mine needs replacing, will definitely get refined ones whenever I decide to replace them.

Recently after a number of spirited  drives i've noticed my car struggles in first when moving off. It's fine if i give it a bit more revs. My limited mechanical knowledge links this to perhaps low oil pressure? It's fine when cold. Either way it's something i'm moving up the list. No other symptoms, tik over's sound and steady.

Mine's floating around 15psi hot idle now so may as well commence the search and see if there's anyone in North Yorkshire that's tackled this before.

It's all fun and games until you're engine goes bang i guess.

Is this the evap surround in your picture?

I cant be 100% until I get back under the car

But this could be the item that I used to have, although the image below seems plastic looking. 

Hi mate,

Could be but difficult to say for sure. If it is im missing more material than I thought.

A quick Google would put it in correct location. I'll see what else I can find out on the EVAP surround and see if I can confirm.

Thanks for that, leave it with me.