rodgeevans

Nakamichi make / made proberly the best sq head units in the world or at least they used too they are / were the bang & olufsen of the car world , but at 80 quid these are properly not up to the standard there stuff used to be i paid 800+ quid for my nakamichi cd headunit when it was new and it was basic looking as you like abeit it did have a 6 disc changer in a single din unit but looked like an old standard factory fitted headunit but you couldn't beat it for sound quality. Thing is now days alot of the named stuff isn't as good as it used to be as the names have all been sold off to other companies who make cheap speakers and put well known names to them which just arent as good as the old stuff. personally from that list i would go with JL not the best around but you wont be disapointed and they're aint much if any better for similar money nowdays.

Seen a couple of posts where people have removed there CF B-pillar wraps and been left with taty looking covers underneath so heres how i got my old ones to look nice and shinney again. To remove the glue i used one of the cloth style brilo pads with meths. This left the covers looking very horrible and dull. Next i used some wet and dry to remove any surface scratches that would ruin the finish. next i applied rubbing compound to the covers and used a drill with a foam buffer on to really rub the compound in, this could be done by hand but it takes long enough with the drill so not advised, after this stage was complete i used the drill with a polishing attachement to polish the covers back to a clean shine and looking like new. You may need to repeat the last couple of steps to get them looking perfect. I will post some pictures of the equipment i used but cant post any of the B-Pillars as i have no before shots and they have now gone to Ian in exchange for his nismo ones. But thought i would share the process i used to get them nice and shiny again so i felt i could exchange them with him for the nismo ones.

Count me in too if possible please.

Well had the exhaust fixed at the weekend in the end and it defenately seems to of improved the fuel consumption even tho i now wasn't expecting it to so hopefully the fix should pay for itself but a comparision will be made when it gets it next full fuel refill

Have to check but i may have a full set of spares as i bought a another set of lights to tint

OK cheers for that might not bother with the repair then and just save for a new exhaust.

Im currently suffering from the usual broken exhaust round the flange and will be looking to get it cut out and a pipe weilded over the join as a temporary measure till i have the money to get a scorpion exhaust or similar. What i was wondering is my exhaust has completely split away from the flange does anyone know if this increases fuel consumption.

Cheers mate done alot of the install today hope to get some pictures up soon just got to build the new bass box and amp rack but all the components are fitted with new speaker wire, the quides make that sound easier than it is to get the connectors in the doors back together but it may be the fact that the elites ned seperate cable for the mids and the tweeters run all the way from a shared crossover but all progressing and weather permitting i should have some pictures of the complete install to post tomorrow minus the sound deadning.

Ok have decided the route im going im sticking the PG titanium Elite 12d in i have swaped the rear speakers already for an old set of PG 6.5 Octanes i had i got a set of PG titanium elite 6.5 components for the front these are actually made by morel, and im powering all of a 2 or 3 pg amps all of which i already have so saves money and the only thing i need to do is design and build a new box so the phoenix gold powered 350 is underway. The only place i have compramised so far is by installing the pioneer screen headunit instead of my nakamichi but the system components should give a good enough SQL without the need of the nak. As you may tell i have a soft spot for Phoenix Gold

Just to say the pioneer unit went in without the need of a facia kit the only think was there is a slight and i mean slight gap between the pocket/undertray and the unit but i have managed to sort this out with a home made mod

cheers guys i was looking at the jl 10's, so i will see if i can fit the PG under the strut or one other idea i have if not i will get a JL i think

Sorry may not of been that clear, right i have a single din nakamichi head unit, in my 350z i have a single din nissan headunit with the tray underneath. now the nakamichi headunit is the same width as the nissan one so i wanted to know whether i still need to get the facia or whether it will go in without.

0.6-0.75 i believe but its got like a 10.5 inch mounting depth so wont fit in the cubby

I currently have an as new old skool cerwin vega stroker 15d and a phoenix gold titainum elite 12d from a previous install just laying around at home, what do people think should i try put one of these in or just get a decent 10 and stick it in the stock location, stroker may be difficult as it needs somin like a 5ft3 box. i already have it in a pro box but that never gonna fit in the z as is. just after some ideas as i really cant decide what to do.

Hey Guys and Gals, I was wondering i have one of the Nissan single din head units with tray underneath do i still need a facia or will another headunit mount in the same way that the nissan one was. to be honest i cant see why i would as surely the radio's would be the same size so it should just fit in right?

i drilled the holes in the crash bar, and as these holes have metal put back in them i'm not worried. i'm fully aware of thatcham and understand why they discuss correct torque settings, as the bolt goes in and they aren't small bolts over torquing will warp the aluminium at the mounting point hence changing its shearing deformation factors. i also understand that a crash bar thats been in a crash and shows signs of bumps or dinks etc; just like a crash helmet after a crash, you just throw it out. these 2 bolted holes, won't affect its capability to function Just to say in steel girders they often cut round holes into them to make them stronger not sure if the same could be applied to a crash bar but holes don't always make something weaker.

NO LONGER REQUIRED CAN BE LOCKED

Just spoke to SGS engineering and they have quoted around 60 quid delivered for a pair of uprated gas struts at 500n instead of 400n, or 12.50 each to re gas the original struts in case anyone else is after.

yeah mine says KM but is defenately reading MPH my km/l is reading 7.5 is this reading in km/l or miles per litre or MPG (i hope not). it does seem as if the dte is reading in KM as it goes up to nearly 600 when full. Can anyone confirm that it is just the speed that has been altered when it was converted to MPH after import. Just worked out that 7.5km/l is around 21mpg in uk gallons which sounds about right to be seeing as it mainly town driving so looks like it just the speed which was changed in the centre pod how i dont know.

yeah i need to put the tap washers in to help pop the boot out the latch properly. the boot sometimes wants to stay up so i will try the counterweight it doesn't cost me anything so worth a try if not i have enquired about some new struts from SGS engineering to see if they better than the originals or if they can uprate them before sending out. thanks for the advise.

ok mate well i can post whenever after this weekend as the car will be off the road for three weeks while i wait for my current insurance to run down curently on the weeks free insurance from aviva you get for doing an hpi check

Hello and welcome mate

Cheers mate will give a go at using some tap washers and see if the counter weight is still fitted many thanks for your help

yeah i will take some pics and post up but would obviosly need the standard pipe to replace

I think thats the one well its as near as damn it. thanks for your help