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trackpig

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Posts posted by trackpig

  1. Hi

     

    I have been looking at a set of coilovers- BC's in particular due to good reviews and a good price.

    I am confused at the spring rates that are supplied standard with the BC kit.

     

    BC provide 10kg/mm front springs and 8kg/mm rears- a stiffer front spring. This goes against what Nissan fit as standard and what most of the after market conventional spring makers supply ( mostly supplying stiffer rear springs compared to front).

     

    I then looked at what springs BC supply for different cars of similar power and weight to the Z.

    For an E46 M3- similar weight, power and drivetrain layout, BC supply 7kg front and 8kg rears.

     

     

    Can anyone explain why cars of similar weight and power have such different coilover spring rates and why BC have changed the spring balance to the front on the Z ( a setup which I have read will increase understeer)

     

     

    Thanks for any info :surrender:

     

    Anyone who has fitted BC's to their car and has an opinion on them, please do share your comments.

  2. I ran the Hankook RS2's on my e36 M3.

     

    They are a good tyre, they grip better than t1r's and falken 452's on dry tracks but are more loose on a wet road. I reckon they are a good intermediate step between a road tyre and a semi slick like an R888.

     

    I did an 8.31min at the Nurburgring on them. :thumbs:

  3. Just to come back to few points raised in the last posts-

     

    I can pull away without spinning the wheels on a snow covered bank without the TCS system on. I always drive the Z without TCS as I like to be able to slide the rear when I want- thats why I bought a rear wheel drive! (TCS is for kids :lol: ). The winter tyres allow you to grip when you want but still have fun in the snow when you want.

     

    Studded tyres- great in scandinavia where they have constant snow and ice for months but not so great here where we have a mixture of snow/ slush/ wet roads. Studded tyres would be too extreme and become a problem when the snow melts.

     

    Snow socks- great idea. Pricey for what they are. £120 for front and rear set when I last looked. But the main problem is having to take them on and off according to the conditions (they wear out when driven on anything other than snow I hear). In a snow blizzard, I cant see many people wanting to get down on their hands and knees and reaching around the backs of their wheels to fit them or take them off. This will end up with people thinking "the roads dont look too bad, i'll just drive without the snow socks" or "I cant be arsed to take the snow socks off" and wearing them out on clear roads.

     

    All in my opinion :thumbs:

  4. Cheers

     

    The tread blocks are around 9-10mm, the tyres are 40 ratio and have fairly stiff side walls. When driving in the wet, I could feel a little movement as the tread moved on turn in but they werent bad, I expected this. Being the last word in cornering during spirted driving is not what they are about and I would not use them as an all year tyre.

     

    If I were to drive on warm summer day and up the pace on these tyres, I am sure the tread blocks would move a hell of alot more.

     

    They seem to be doing the job for what they are designed for though :thumbs:

  5. My girlfriend has been using the 350z for work and had reported the tyres were "fine" in the snow. I have finally had a chance to really test them for myself and have to say they are spot on!

     

    I had a drive to a particular bank that never gets gritted and has seen me stuck in the past. It was easy! I even stopped so I could pull away again to see if I could do it without spinning the wheels, which I did. Traction out of rounabouts is excellent. Braking on snow and slush is also so much better than the Qashqai I drive on its new bridgestone summer tyres.

     

    The only thing I did find was that the turn in on slow tight corners (90 degree) is not up to the same high standard and still have to be taken at a more summer tyre style speed or understeer occurs.

     

    wintertyres007.jpg

     

    wintertyres008.jpg

  6. I have been out and tested the tyres tonight- temps around 2deg down to 0 and wet.

     

    I dont drive the car much through the week (the girlfriend uses it to get to work and back) so I have not driven it on its sumer tyres in the cold conditions. I am now struggling to say if in the wet, the winter tyres grip better than the summer tyres. There cant be much in it. There does seem to be alittle more movement from the tread blocks under cornering. Grip during acceleration and braking seem good.

     

    I had been concerned the Nankangs were going to be terrible in the wet non-snow conditions but I am pleasantly surprised. They performed well and did not show any comedy traits. As they seem to be usable in the wet, I just need it to snow to get some real value from them.

     

    The slightly non oem tyre sizes have not given any TCS problems either :thumbs:

  7. I have had the same problems-

     

    change your brake fluid and your clutch fluid while you are on. I've had my brake and clutch pedals go to the floor (not at the same time!) due to old fluid, boiling.

     

    On the 350, I run standard discs, ebc yellow, ATE super blue fluid and some cooling ducts to cool the front brakes. This setup works for me on track.

     

    P.S I saw you and your car at Cadwell on Sunday, I was in the orange R1 kit car. I might have some on track footage of you, I'll Check.

  8. Hi all

     

    I have purchased a set Nankang SV1 winter tyres and had them fitted to my spare touring style alloys.

    The tyres are 225/40/18 fronts and 245/40/18 rears (non oem size due to lower cost of tyres).

    I also took the opportunity to give the wheels a respray.

     

    I am waiting for the winter weather to kick in before taking off the Rays and fitting the touring wheels with the winter tyres.

     

    I know Nankang tyres seen as a poor brand but maybe the SV1's will do the job and get the car moving and braking in the snow!

     

    I will report back once tested.

     

    collection018.jpg

     

    collection019.jpg

     

    collection020.jpg

     

    collection021.jpg

  9. Hi all,

    As my girlfriend uses the Z everyday to travel to work, I am thinking of fitting some winter tyres to my spare oem Touring style alloy wheels for use over the winter months.

     

    The standard set up on these wheels is 225/45/18 front and 245/45/18 rear.

     

    My question is- would there be any problem fitting 235/40/18 to front and rear?

     

    I dont think there would be be thought I'd ask on here first :thumbs:

     

    Cheers

  10. I fixed the pipes in place with tie wraps first but found they moved when the front wheels were turned via the steering wheel. Turning the wheels was pulling and pushing on the pipes and causing the pipe to pull away from the inside of the disc's hub, rendering them less effective.

     

    The brackets/ plates fix this problem.

    ---------------------------

    Are you only fitting braided lines to the front brakes?

    I have only ever fitted braided lines to all corners due to the way the hydraulic circuit is with two diagonal systems. With braided lines only on the front, the rubbrer lines on the rear can still expand and give a poor pedal feel.

    Sorry if I am telling you what you all ready know.

  11. Picture017.jpg

     

    sorry looking again at that photo it doesnt look like you're aiming that to the middle part of the disc, can see it's oem type disc too..

     

    If you get under your car, you will see the shape of the splash gaurd- its cut away just under the caliper. Its here you can see the inner of the disc hub. I have set the pipe so the air is directed here.

    Its not possible to see the spot in the pic as the pipe is covering it.

  12. I tried to mount the pipe to the caliper with tie wraps and other methods but found I could not get a strong enough fix. This is why I went for the plate- it holds the pipe right into the hub of the disc without rubbing on it. This allows the air to flow through the internal vanes of the disc and cool the whole disc rather than just one face of it.

     

    :dummy:

     

    Nice constructive post, well done. :thumbs:

     

    I genuinely am interested in your idea. I look forward to seeing the results.

  13. I tried to mount the pipe to the caliper with tie wraps and other methods but found I could not get a strong enough fix. This is why I went for the plate- it holds the pipe right into the hub of the disc without rubbing on it. This allows the air to flow through the internal vanes of the disc and cool the whole disc rather than just one face of it.

     

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