evilscorp
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Posts posted by evilscorp
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More rust.
Dodgey dan work, patch over rust, basically going to have to cut the whole rear passenger boot pocket out and redo.
Not looking forward to fabbing metal up for that area ^^
more bits need cutting out but thought I would primer it so it doesn't get any worse.
MY first UGADUGA! Wish i had one of these in my life a long time ago!
abs and aircon gone(aircon may come back if I can find a new radiator for it otherwise bye bye.)
Big hole, same happening to otherside and wheel tubs will replace.
The end is so long away I don't even think I can see it!
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I have been working on both cars and taking photos. . . . just forgetting to upload or remember what I have done.
2nd hand cosworth intake has had new rubber gaskets and the metal shavings removed =/
The rear arches have been cut for a second time... but I took too much off the bottom as i cut along the rivet join. So big spaces to learn how to fill with weld.. took some time.
not nice to look at.
bit of rust remover over the top. and some primer.
one side done!
Now the other will be 10x easier as I wont cut the bottom layer, just need to drill out the rivets and cut the top layer and bash it up some more, lack of suspension travel was really annoying and dangerous as fast dips in the road would cause minor tyre rubbing/noise.
Most of my time has been spent on the other car.
I did make a boost leak tester then realized the vortech bypass valve is always open DOH! so need to blank that off and try again somehow, but I will wait till I switch to the cosworth manifold, just waiting on a new lower intake gasket to arrive before fitting.
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Ideal way to do the job if you don't have a welder.
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They are cured/made at 150C so should be good as they would probably only deal with half that.
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2 hours ago, longsh07 said:
You can take your car away, you're just not allowed to drive it if it fails, which of course causes issues for most people... Was reading something this morning about it as it happens.
Garage cannot stop you from driving your car away (even if it fails - that's your risk!), nor can they stop you from having towed elsewhere to have the repairs done.
Yes you are correct longsh07, i should have stated that. As you say though you would need to legally get the car towed from and back to an mot station = more than the cost of them doing the repair probably.
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Problem I encountered the other week was I was unable to take the car away to fix an exhaust leak myself (mig welder at home) as it failed as a major on that or a broken drop link, hand brake needing tightened.
Cost me £360 for work i could have done myself for £40 probably.
Previously you could still drive your car if your old mot had not yet expired. So whatever garage you take your car to be prepaired for them to do work on it. (don't use cheapo McCheaperson as they might be rubbing their hands with jobs they can make/screw up.)
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Pm your details and I will try to check.
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tarmac sports gt style lip off my 2003 350z, has not been painted, but had been fitted to the car for a few months.
minor scratches on the underside (speed bumps, but would be filled with a thick coat of primer and paint). Also has 4 holes where it was attached to the bumper.
On ebay as below
Polyurethane so its flexible, great for lowered cars and getting over speed bumps.
No longer use the oem bumper so this is up for grabs,
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Fortunately I play hockey so have a few spare, plan to make up a gearbox mount for my 200sx cd00* gearbox swap.
The hardness rating of a puck is 92 I think and standard engine mounts are 60ish while race mounts go between 80-100 so its well setup for being quite responsive. As for fitting there was a guy on youtube who done some on his trans and engine that was quite good to watch(not a 350z).
I will have a look at my spare oem engine mounts to see what might need done and how many pucks might be needed.
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Bought the yale 4 camera system, only installed 3 so far, and not tested the quality except from in my living room on initial unboxing.
Where I have the cameras mounted (under the gutters at the front, and right in the middle of the apex roof at the back) is so its discreet from the front and doesn't annoy the neighbours but obvious from the rear to deter folk from trying my garage or back doors. Stuck some signs up too at the back, don't think the cameras would have a chance in hell in picking out a face but might be able to show a time and general clothing to match with other cctv (none that I know of in the area except the local petrol station.)
The system looks good and have the ability to stream to my phone, the only issue is running a cable from my attic and the 1TB box to a phone line downstairs.
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chop shop scotland.
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Ebay also throws a few wonders your way!
Would have cost 3x as much new (without shipping) and has barely been used, it may be a tad over kill though but might as well try a twin carbon clutch once. Came out an s15 so has a thicker flywheel and pilot bushing ideal for my 350z gearbox swap.
Last of the grinding around the windscreen, some rust remover applied then a coat of primer on sunday.
This is where the windscreen crack started so i thought it may have been the three different panels moving (dead spot welds maybe?) so I stuck a few tack welds to hold them together, IF ANYONE THINKS THIS IS A BAD IDEA FOR CRASH SAFETY OR OTHER WISE PLEASE TELL ME! (I assume you want the passenger cell the strongest part so I may even add a few more to these areas.)
most dangerous tool ever. (however it will do wonders on the underseal.)
next big holes, template made.
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Parts, Parts, Parts!!! Thanks Torqen, you know how much I like keeping you on your toes with specialty items =)
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7 hours ago, wizard said:
Have a play around with Vortech’s impeller calculator. You’ll find that it’s actually quite tricky to get close to the impeller limit: https://vortechsuperchargers.com/pages/impeller-speed-calculator
32/28, ATIdamper, 2.87” pulley, 7200Redline = 52,380rpm
928 state that it should be fine to overspin blower by a few thousand rpm.
Err you have the cogs the wrong way round in the calculator that would defo blow up the blower 68000 rpm lol
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5 hours ago, scobie140 said:
Would the extra rpm that the alternator & power steering pump would see not be an issue to consider also?
Only a problem if you raise the Rev limit, but as above, not mentioned as a problem much or at all.
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Then it's either 928 impellar and 60,000 rpm limit or big boy V7 blowers...... need to actually get round to building my spare engine first.
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Plan to run my fluidamper, 3.12 pulley and 32/28 cog pulleys on my v3 sci vortech (non rev-up), it should only just over spin the blower if i remember right, but the time it does this for/ the chance i actually hit the increased rev limit (7000rpm probably) will be so small it shouldn't do any damage, if maintained well. 53,000 is the max speed of the V2 SCi (couldnt find the V3 data atm.) and the speed it would go to on my setup is around 56,000 i think.
Seen a few post from america saying it should be ok to over spin the blower slightly as belt slip and acutally hitting the rev limiter are factors to consider.
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Cheers Alex, thought that would be the best way to go, saves a few quid too.
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Anyone with a cosworth intake bought replacement o ring gaskets for the end caps? If so where from?
Finally got round to fitting the intake but thought I would take the end caps off for a look.
unfortunately the cap screws were a bit dodgey and will be getting replaced, also a little bit of metal swarf from the previous owner will need blown out.
You can see the flakes on the gasket.
Since I want a good seal for stopping boost leaks (my problem at the moment, 4 large sealing faces with the motordyne plenum spacer that is now worn and been on the car for years), so I want to make sure this intake is leak free, the gaskets on it at the moment are flat so not much use,
I have ordered some 2mm gasket cord and will order some gasket paste to seal the end/join but if anyone knows where i can get the cosworth oem gasket that would be great.
part nos ;RH Plenum cap O-Ring 20001319, LH Plenum cap O-Ring 20001320.
Thanks
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Welder wasn't happy about attaching this, so I had to do the million spot weld method.
Also think I should have used my thicker steel for this part but figured if something was to try and burst through it has two layers to go through.
Still might put another patch on top for keeping my mind at ease.
Need to grind off the slugs and fill any bits I missed but its the missus 30th so I should probably spend some time with her lol.
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Most people use uprev, so you might be waiting a while. try contacting vortech yourself?
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Grinding off the spot welds and underseal from the sill join so I can weld in a u shaped metal piece to strengthen the sill for future jacking points.
Cutting out a patch of rust to see whats behind! Hopefully good metal?
nope.
Scraped and wire brushed as much of the rust off so I can treat it then weld in some repair patches.
Plenty more of this will happen =(
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Scream if you want to go faster!
in Member Build Projects
Posted
Yeah I think the first time you cut up a car you are too scared and end up causing yourself more issues, better to just say f it! What do I want and let’s do that!
I live in rural Scotland so stance = broken car and 10mph everywhere lol. I prefer fast and functional but without being a 4x4