was8v

the other thing was the clutch biting point was right at the end of its travel ie biting point was not far off foot off the pedal is this normal for a zed ?

This was an issue for me when I first picked it up, I could hardly drive the thing! I soon got used to it, although when I switch from my girlfriends golf I can be a little jerky...

I cannot get my clutch to slip using usual test of slow speed, high gear + a few revs + dump clutch so think it has life in it yet at 54k.

However it is normal for a pre facelift Z to have a high clutch apparently. Drive another and see if its the same.

AAAAARGH

Just been out to the Z to try this:

Car unlocked, held both buttons for 5 secs then released

Press button to lock car, car locks.

Press button to unlock and nothing. nada. nothing.

Press unlock a few more times and nothing.

Use key to open car, alarm goes off, turn ignition to cancel.

Press button to lock car, car locks

Press button to unlock and nothing.

Frantically press unlock button and eventually the car unlocks, but not the pass side.

Try it a few more times and now I've come to the conclusion the unlock works intermittently now. Worked fine before GRRRRRRR.

zmanalex supplied me with aux belts, took 30 mins for me to fit myself - easy if you have some ramps / a pit, you just need to remove the undertray and loosen a couple of bolts.

I bought OE Pagid pads from eurocarparts.com for £25 an end.

I did some calculations.

Assuming the tongue weight (rated at 150lbs) is measured at 100mm from the hitch

Assuming the mass of the bikes acts 500mm from the hitch (sitting on a rack)

Then the total weight you can carry is about 14 kg or 29lbs i.e. one bike max.

hmmm maybe the bird automotive with its support straps is looking better.

Its an anti carjacking facility.

Its a pretty rubbish anti car jacking facility IMHO leaving the drivers door unlocked.

My girlfriends golf locks itself over 10mph and unlocks when the key is removed from the ignition or a door is opened - thats much better.... (though I'd still have my predicament above). Also locks the boot which cant be opened unless the key is out of the ignition (also a little annoying but perhaps stops bags being grabbed).

Will try holding both buttons for 5 secs cheers.

Every single time I pick my girlfriend up from work, I unlock my Z with the fob and drive round, she will be stood there waiting. She walks over to car and every bloody time I forget to hit the unlock switch so the passenger door is still locked and she gives me hell for making her look silly stood in the rain trying the door.

Why the hell doesn't the passenger door unlock when you unlock the car like every single other car out there? It manages to open the boot every time but requires a double press (or interior switch) to open all doors. Its ridiculous!

Is there a way to set it up? On her Golf I can use VAG-COM to set it to lock over 10mph etc and do loads of stuff like that - anything on the Z?

Its a 2004 UK car btw.

I'm interested - is this for the rear on standard rays (can't remember sizes off the top of my head).....

Thanks for your responses.

 

Its actually more like a sliding noise as if two metal plates are sliding against each other. Bit tricky to explain a noise in words!

 

I'm going to take it to a local garage i know. Hopefully they can diagnose it and it isnt to expensive to repair!!

Mine does it and 2 others I looked at did it.

When to starts "screaming" then I'll worry about it.....(or replace if I replace the clutch...)

No No and No ..................Looking at the rear chassis and rusty bits lol their is a lot of allumininm bits underneath and I would not like to attach anything to the underside to use it as a tow truck .... that tow hitch is tested so it says to 1500kgs right so the actual tow weight would be around 500- 600gks so basicaly I would only think about towing my lunchbox behind me and would be wondering that if I hit a pot hole on a hill the trailor and the rear of the car would be left behind me

 

get a cheap tow car mate .... I use my bm touring for my bikes etc ......

 

My honest oppinion being a welder

Ste .

Again - I'm not going to use it to tow anything. The guys in the states use them to tow jet skis and wheels to the track, we know it won't support much.

The hitch is rated to a tongue weight of 150lbs, 2 XC mountain bikes weigh 60lbs. Will be fine!!!!

Why would I want to drive a cheap car to the trails when I have a Z at home!? I already sue a strap on rack - this seems a much better option!

caroline fitted a rack on her Zed. Looks really tidy - viewtopic.php?f=9&t=22327&start=30

Yes it looks good.

However cost was almost £450. They are $419 plus delivery and duty/tax.

This runs to half the price and I can use the rack on other cars if I wish.

apparently this has been looked at and been dismissed for a number of reasons. im sure if you dig through search its there somewhere. there were questions as to the engine loading for towing as the drivetrain isnt set up for pulling a load other than the car (prolonged engine loading etc). I assume this is taken through the chassis? again its not designed for this so i would look at the amount you are towing on that area. i like the idea as i wouldnt have to go out and buy a shed to get my windsurfing gear out and about but i see it having its problems.

I'm not towing, just mounting a bike rack, eg:

Since the 350z is not type approved for towing in the UK then it is illegal to tow. Plenty of people of the thread linked on my350z towing just fine in the states however.

BLASPHEMY!!!!!

LOL, its not as bad as the strap on bike rack I currently use...... With that I worry about my paint work and my bikes..... A receiver hitch would fix both of those, and let me get in the boot with the bikes on.

This leaves only a small cut at the bottom of the rear bumper, which a bumper tuck will hide if / when the hitch is removed....

I enjoy driving the Z and MTBing, why not have the best of both world and drive the Z to the trails....

Damn Nissan for not making a roof rack like Porsche/BMW/Audi all do. I was tempted to get a Z4 coupe for this very reason until i saw these hitches.

I'm looking at getting a tow hitch for mine to mount a bike rack:

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=38609

I am thinking of getting one of these hitches:

http://www.hitchsource.com/nissan-350z- ... 27988.html

From here

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0394433768 (the picture is wrong)

via:

http://www.myus.com/ or shipito.com as no-one wants to ship to the UK direct.

This is to fit a hitch mount bike rack, as my Saris boot rack wobbles about a lot and prevents access to the boot. I don't like the idea of trusting the boofsquire rack - poor feet, I don't trust it with my bikes.

They are of course designed for towing, but not type approved in the UK so I don't think its legal here to tow with them.

Lots more pics here: http://my350z.com/forum/exterior-and-in ... -code.html

Anyone else in?

Looking at: $112 for the hitch, ~$100 to myus or shipito = £142 + approx 30% duty and VAT = about £185

I bought a full set from Euro car parts - £66 for a full set of OE quality PAGID pads, the ones they sell are to fit Brembos.

Not fitted them yet as there is more wear left than i first thought in the pads on there.

Oilman - our handbooks in our 350z do not specify a fully synthetic oil. In fact the Nissan manual states a 5w30 "Mineral oil" should be used, no not even semi synth.

Now with drain intervals at 9000 miles, for a standard road car with normal use (perhaps 1 track day a year) would there _really_ be ANY advantage at all in using a fully synthetic oil over a mineral or semi?

Is it not perhaps pouring money down the drain (oil recycling centre)?

I thought they had gone a bit "braveheart" on the production. Story wasn't very strong...

My Z has developed a squeak from the front drivers side suspension when tackling speed bumps.

Any ideas on likely candidates? Its like a rubber component against metal or other rubber....

parcelmonkey.co.uk

These will arrange it with citylink for under 30 quid.

I had this braking from motorway speeds, a vibration through the wheel from 70-40mph ish.

I then had new tyres fitted and balanced. It went away.

It may be just a balancing weight has fallen off - I'd get wheels balanced before assuming the worst.

its quite considered by a few here not to drain the gearbox oil and just leave alone

My car has 52k miles and the box is a little slow and slightly noisy changing gear on cold mornings. On previous (FWD) cars the shift has improved by topping up the level. I'd thought I'd do it properly on the 350 and change the lot out.

I was under the impression that Gearbox and Diff oils should be changed as part of a P3 service (which my car is due).

10mm Hex

Thanks I already have a 10mm hex key Audi use something enormous for their plugs..

Hi all,

What tool do I need to remove the gearbox and diff drain / fill plugs?

I remember on my TT I had to use a large bolt with 2 nuts locked off.

I'd like to have everything ready this time to save scrounging round for bits!

Thanks.

What is that!!!!

Love the diversity of motors that turn up to Pistonheads meets. Just wish I could make it!

I've accumulated all the bits needed for a full P3(+) spec service for my Z:

-Gearbox oil

-Diff Oil

-Brake Fluid

-Full set of brake pads

-Engine Oil

-Sump plug washer

-Oil filter

-Air Filter

-Spark plugs

-Touch in paint

-OBD-II Code Scanner

-Coolant (not pictured)

-Both aux drive belts (not pictured)

Should keep me busy for a couple of hours at the weekend

Anyone know what tool is needed to undo the gearbox and diff drain plugs?

heads up if ordering from opieoils:

use the code APRILFREESHIP to get free delivery

eurocarparts are pretty cheap for oil too these days