stuRS

Wehey! Hello mate. Was good to see your car, I may call on you shortly for some advice, need a new head unit but want to keep the bose speakers

CMR - that's good news for me, I've done about 450 miles since I picked it up and I think mine's fine. It's stiff, but it's not slipping at all and the clutch starts to engauge about 1/2 way on pedal. A kind local forum member has offered to test mine to see how it compares to his, good plan I rekon. On a side note, loving having some power again. I think I got a real bargain. Picture is me and my friend on the race, I mean drive home!

Thanks for everyone's help, Zmanalex is already on the case! Need to resist spacers until next month...arhhh!

Hello all, This is getting silly now - I've just got back home after a weekend dedicated to collecting my 3rd 350z. Technically speaking it's my 1st 350z, I bought my first car back from the guy I sold it to. Anyway! It's on 66k miles (30K of which are Kms) and the clutch is heavy and pretty much 'on' or 'off' - so that needs doing. By the looks of things, I can buy the clutch itself for under £300, but labour is the killer. Can anyone recommend somewhere in the South-West (Poole) to get the clutch changed? I've also been looking at getting it Uprev'd (think that's right). It's an import so has the 112mph limit, also, it's got a JWT pop charger and will shortly have a scorpion exhaust too, so figured I should get the ECU done to sort everything out. I was planning on using Abbey for the limit and dyno time, does anyone know if they'd do the clutch too? I've heard they're really good. After selling my UK GT in Feb I've not been posting, so pleased to be back. Got a real bargain on the car (£6800!) so got some money in the pot to sort it out. Stu

I was going to say! I think government standard is 40p a mile for first 10,000 miles and 25p thereafter? I've had two Zs now, both of them when I was working in London getting the train to work, only driving the car in my free time. Sold my last one as I too took a new job with lots of driving and thought I needed better mpg, bought myself an Audi A4 avant..............boring!! I find myself on a great road with the sun out in a bloody estate. I think of it like this: Driving a Z + Free petrol + getting paid for it = cool job I'm currently looking for Z number 3. Going black this time

It was in a massively cold snap we had early feb. The handle moved but didn't have the resistance it should of had. The internals were jammed so when you moved the handle it wasn't connecting. Basically - Lube is the key mate! Lube it like there's no tomorrow.

Hello mate, I had a massive issue with my drivers door doing this a couple of weeks ago. Couldn't unlock from inside or out for over a week - I wasn't happy! I found that the inner mechanism of the door handle had seized. I was able to fix it by liberally spraying WD40 through the gap created by lowering the window. I can explain in more detail if you need me to. I ended up damaging my door card and heating up the mechanism with a hair dryer, whilst jimmying the dog-legged bar that pushes a lever down by the lock. As I say - let me know if you need more info, but i would suggest re-greasing the lock mech (the latch that hooks over the hoop on the sill) and squirting the inside of the door handle with WD40 when the window is all the way down - not had the problem since thankfully. Stu

Dislikes Sodding lock mechanisms!! Boot that doesn't stay up when it's cold. Bose missions when changing HU? Spacing of standard RAYS without spacers Regrets - None - on my 2nd zed now and love it (except when the doors don't open)

I've kind of pulled the door card back so I've got some room, but it hasn't really helped. I had to 'help' it with a screwdriver so I think I might need to replace it now. I rekon heat is my best approach - I will get the door nice and warm, then scratch my arse for a bit, then lock/unlock. Technical stuff...

Excellent thanks mate, that would be very helpful. I presumed that information on lock mechs online is restricted to stop little sods nicking our cars. It's 'round 2' when I get back from work tonight. Going to start with a borrowed fan heater then try and push down on the dog legged rod under the handle - what you think?

When I pull the ball ended cable I get nothing, I get no feel from it either i.e no sprung feeling on cable or anything. I'm pretty sure the cables aren't at fault and it's whatever the cables run to that's seized. Trouble is, due to the extremely limited access (through the 1inch gap for window) I cannot see anything, feel anything - it's a nightmare.

Yeah I've dried unlocking with the key. After I fiddle with something I repeatedly lock/unlock with the key and the buttons on the off chance in springs into life. So do you think I should be pushing or pulling the dog legged bar then? Can you try and describe the action it would take if fully functional?

Having visited my local Nissan Dealer, I really don't think they are going you have more experience of the inner door workings than everyone on here. At the end of the day it's just grown up mechano, so I'm not scared to take things apart. As I look down the inside of the door I can see a dog legged rod that seems to drop from the exterior handle down into the lock mechanism, it has a bright blue rubber grommet at the base. Is this the magic part? As this isn't moving at all when I lock/unlock/pull the handles. Thanks again.

Not a bad idea, but I'm not a member of any motoring groups. I'm fairly comfortable with most mechanics but I'm trying to apply logic for once So this loose ball ended cable - what are the posibilities? If this was disconnected at the latch end, would that also render the outside handle useless? Unfortunately the car is a mile away at my parents as there is better lighting there. I left a little while ago with bleeding hands, so can't take any pics tonight - a valid use for smilie though!

Thanks everyone for your help. Ive been working with the window right down so it's not that auto-dip thing. I have jimmy'd the door card off the door (after doing my best to follow the removal guides) and I have disconnected the 2 cables from the back of the internal handle. The 'T' shape cable is tought and operating well, the ball ended cable has no movement and is slack. Everyone keeps telling me to just take it to a Nissan dealer, but I have zero faith in some monkey that services Micras for a living doing a better job than me. If this ball ended cable is slack does that pin point the issue to a stiff/stuck latch?

It happened over a week ago now, I've tried heating it up but it just won't do anything. There is no resistance on the door handle either. I've searched high and low for this problem but no-one seems to have the same 'symtoms' as me. I think it probably is to do with the cold weather, but I can't just climb through the passanger door till July!

I've been having a bit of a panic recently as my drivers door is jammed/locked/stuck/f*cked. It will not open from inside or out. The lock mech is working, it just will not open. I've lost patience with it and attacked the door card (not a happy bunny) and even with full access to the 2 cables for the inside door handle, it's not doing anything. If anyone is a specialist with the lock mechs I would be very greatful for a PM with some info on how to open the door. tried coat hangers, hot water, DW40, screw drivers - all sorts. I just want my car to be useable again. Thanks guys

Very helpful thanks. My door is completely ****ed and no one has seen my cries for help...

I'm going to try and tackle this when I get back from work, but it would be really helpful if someone who has taken the drivers door card off before could confirm the following for me: Are there any clips or screws that I won't be able to access (by the dash?) Does it lift up and off easily or is it a pain in the arse? Is it flexible enough for me to pull it back and access the cables? Am I wasting my time as the seat will be in the way anyway? I'd much rather call on you lot than hack my car up trying to find out the answers! If I can get this sorted I will do a guide for future sufferers

That's great, cheers! I'm half way up the country at the moment but will be back in Essex tonight. I need to get it sorted asap so will try and strip the door tomorrow evening. Do you know what the difference between the two cables is? Not sure which one I should be yanking. As much info as to how the lock mechanism works would be great, the American forums are all I've got at the moment and I don't speak idiot

Hello all. I posted here recently that my drivers door will not open from either inside or out. the outside handle has no resistance so i think something has snapped or come loose. Anyway, i need to take the door card off to get to the mechanism but i cannot open the door. Can any of you guys who have removed their door cards tell me if this is possible? I was hoping I could remove the internal door handle seperately and pull the lock cables with some long nosed pliers - any thoughts? I'm really pi**ed off with this to be honest, you don't expect this kind of buggering around on an expensive modern jap car

Gotta love the Halfords ratchet spanners. I buy myself an extra set every Christmas

Cheers guys, My logic was that had it got stuck between full open/full closed there would be slack in the cable, which would explain the handle being so free-moving. It may well be the cables disconnected from the mech, but as you say, total nightmare dismantling the door when it can't be opened. I think I would have to write my door card off. I don't really see the point in taking it to a garage as I'm fairly competent with mechanics. Had the window down and tried jimming the lock but it's no use. It's parked outside and I can't fit it in the garage at the moment to try and thor it out. Good call on the heater, will see what I can do. I'm meant to be driving 190 miles tomorrow for a weekend away with mrs StuRS, but it looks like i'll be taking her mini instead, grr. Just about to go out for a 30 mile drive, I'll crank the heater and aim for potholes.

I'm having a nightmare at the moment - the drivers door won't open from the outside or inside. I'm having to climb over to get into the drivers seat and I'm low on petrol, I'm not doing it at the BP garage! I've done a lot of forum/google searching and everything points towards a frozen mechanism, or at least the cold weather seizing the lock. I can move the key in the lock as normal, I can hear the actuators doing their thing - it's just not physically unlocking. This evening I have tried all suggestions I could find including hot water, hair driers, coat hangers - everything. I'm hoping it will magically spring into life when the weather warms up, and it's simply a case of lubing the lock mech. Can anyone think of a clever way of heating the door up safely for a few hours? If not I'll just have to wait for the sun to come out. The outside door handle moves as it should, but there isn't the resistance you feel normally (and indeed as the passanger handle feels). I'm guessing the grease in the cable sleaves is just too cold for it to free up. Suggestions? Pitty? Anything would be good! Stu

Can you imagine explaining that to a copper? Funny, but I'm sitting this one out!