Tricky-Ricky

I would just pull the EFI fuse and turn it over without starting untill you see some oil pressure, then start normally.

That's odd! I have always been under the opposite impression, as per graph?

Just for reference, I ran my VQ on 10w40, the actual difference in viscosity is minimal and won't make any difference other than adding a few lbs to the oil pressure, I would agree that changing to other makes or types of oil IE semi or fully synthetic cam make a difference to the sound of the motor.

However excessive follower clearance can cause the noise, as can a restriction in oil flow to the cams, and another often mistaken tic noise can be attributed to the fuel pulsation damper.

On 25/01/2018 at 21:08, zedz said:

It wasn't me asking the question. nothing wrong with my z when it comes to the engine, I was replying to MrLee's post number 1

Sorry! quoted the wrong post, seems the OP is happy that it's fixed, although all rather confusing with details.

Re fitting the original cats won't make a big difference, however for MOTs it could result in the AFRs going a bit rich and pushing the limits of failure.

Makes no sense to me, not sure about his maths, but to me, the motor pushing more power at lower RPM would be the less stressed due to the fact that the faster the moving parts are, the more stress they generate, both dynamically and harmonically, regardless of BHP or torque.

Unless it's making a vast difference to the amount of airflow the turbo can draw IE current air box very restrictive, it shouldn't make any real difference

Fitting a catch can to the low load/idle side of the PCV system is the best option as this breathes the most oil vapour, the high load side does not, so a can is not really necessary.

You need a sealed can with an inlet and outlet, and preferably internally baffled, with a sealed drain plug, as this will be under vacuum all the time so will cause running issues if there is an air leak.

Fitted in a misguides attempt to restore bad earth paths, people often fit them when they have problems, but if you remove and clean all the engine earth points it will achieve the same, basically snake oil.

And looking at the amount of corrosion on that engine I am not surprised.

On 19/01/2018 at 21:09, zedz said:

From what I understand, the engine is tight when hot and will not start at that point.

 

If the engine starts three hours later, when the engine has cooled down and no longer tight, I would look at the oil pump and or possibly the water pump, to see if there is a problem there.

 

It may also be the cause of the squealing if some pulleys are going around and another one is tight from overheating,  water pump first.

 

Thatsa little confusing, do you mean the engine is actually tight..as in difficult to turn when it's hot, IE the starter will try but fail to turn the engine? 

Could be as said the alternator is not charging the battery, but then you're saying that you suspect the oil pump! have your low oil pressure then?

If you can afford to go OLED then go for it, Samsung do not make OLED, and the QLED is not the same, just an improved version of quantum dot, however i would always go for biggest you can afford, and at those viewing distances you will not really get the benefit of UHD even with a 65" screen, you really need to be closer.

I sit around 12 feet from my Samsung 65" set, however i wouldn't go Samsung again after going through four sets and having problems with all, my,next set will be LG OLED

Quick update and some pics that will actually show (THANKS PHOTOBUCKET!:apoke:)!Did a quick tank repaint, just a rattle can job so not perfect but will do for now, also just took the misses out for the first time...loved it...apart from the large bumps, doing well, hard tails at our age.:D

so I now have my link G4+ ECU and my wideband O2 in and working but the base map supplied by link did what it said on the box it got it started but was not drivable luckily for me there are some pretty nice people on this forum

and Philw99 who is also running a link g4 gave me a copy of his map (Thanks Phil) due to differences in our setups it wasn't right but much closer than what I had and with a bit of tweaking is now driveable so now I just need to find the time to do some alterations on the fuel return system and a few bits left to do on the throttle bodies and get them fitted

now I have the G4+ fitted I seem to have a few spare ecu's knocking around two turboxs utec's which you can tune through hyperterminal and a plug and play unichip piggyback these have all been fitted to my Z at various times and are a bit old tech but still work these are free if anyone wants to try them no guarantees at your own risk (1 each don't get greedy) but you will have to be local as I don't have the free time to post or wait around for people to show up

Nice offer Andy, shame i don't have the 350GT any more, i would have loved to have a go at mapping the VQ, only done turbo cars in the past, but never from scratch, always had a base to start from, good luck with it.

DOT 3 and 4 are the same save for the higher heat tolerance/boiling point, they are both hydroscope and will adsorb water readily, if you want a higher still boiling point go for DOT 5, these are all glycol based and will be fine with the synthetic rubber brake components,

You can even flush and use silicone fluid, its just the other way around that you can get problems as the rubber intended for silicone fluid can be attacked by glycol based fluids.

Great to hear, sounds like the Link was the way to go, looking forward to hearing it used in earnest, its a nice feeling to have a project work out as intended,are you going to map it on the rollers, or on the road to start with?

Been seeing 33c from the outside temp gauge...in the shade here in Norfolk, today started better with some cloud and just 24c but soon climbed to 29c with 78% humidity, i have spent most of the weekend sat in front of two fans....hate the heat!

Coil pack issues usually show up when the engine has thoroughly warmed up and under load rather than just pulling away etc, as the higher the cylinder pressures the harder it is for the coil/plug to ignite the mixture.

I would very much doubt its down to the O2 sensors, and you would only need the main sensors not the cat monitor sensors, as these are not used for fuel metering anyway.

I would be looking at a throttle relearn as this is the most likly cause for erratic throttle/hesitation, followed by investigating cam/crank position sensors which can be expensive to replace, but i would not trust that particular garage.

I didn't bother to vote today...lost confidence in any of them........i vote Muppet...as that what we will get.

i also seldom watch the news, haven't bought a paper in years either, so your not the only one.

Could be down to cam chain stretch, this can cause the position sensors to keep throwing errors.

The trouble is once the alloy they use for engine castings has started to oxidize, unless you can remove every trace, it will just come back in a few month's if you lacquer it, polish and keep polished and some wax wont hurt.

I am sure the police. secret service etc could do far more....but for the PC namby panmby constraints that we have allowed various governments to put on them, yet we are the ones standing around throwing blame and what if's.

Its our own fault for letting this country become a nice cushy safe haven for all and sundry, it needs re titling from "Great Britain" to "Pathetic Britain" because that's what its become,and how most of the world see us! rant over!

No worries! i think you may be right about the paranoia and thanks! its a long time since i was called a young man.

Oops looks like I've some how posted this in the wrong section. If moderators can move it into General I'd be obliged.

 

For Tricky Ricky... Well the centre electrode appears a bit flatter than the rest, not so much of a point. The plugs are the Platinum type.

Hope it's not valve or seal problems. Wonder if it's worth putting Redex in the fuel to aid cleaning the injectors, although I've heard that Optimax fuel( which I always use) contains stuff that kerps the injectors clean.

Can the injectors be tested in any way?

Well the center electrode of the plugs should have a flat end with reasonable well defined edges anyway, did you check to see if the gap had opened up in comparison with the others?

When you say it looked worse than the others and sooty, that could just mean that its running a little rich at idle which could just be down to bad injector spray pattern, doesn't sound like a lot to worry about.